European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 22, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse By Jacques Pepin new York times i cant think of another dish that lends itself better to a party than Quot grand it is easy to make colourful and there Are countless variations with vegetables fish and meat. Aioli the Mayonnaise mixture at the Center of this dish is not for the timid nibbler with its High concentration of garlic it is a very assertive dish. My recipe Calls for two cloves of garlic a person so it is Best eaten among friends and accompanied by generous glasses of dry Cool Provencal ros6. This dish is made in two parts the Aioli a garlic Laden Mayonnaise mixture that is the Flavouring and spirit of the dish and what i Call the grand Aioli the garnishes that form the base of the recipe. These include poached salted codfish squid an assortment of vegetables including Broccoli Zucchini carrots and potatoes and hard cooked eggs. Much of the grand Aioli can be prepared ahead. Because of widespread concern Over the possibility of Salmonella contamination from the consumption of raw eggs i have eliminated egg Yolks the conventional Binder from the Aioli replacing them with a Little commercial Mayonnaise. It is important that you use Good Quality Olive Oil either Virgin or extra Virgin. It is also important that the Oil be at room temperature cold Oil would cause the mixture to separate. I Wash the salted codfish Well under Cool water and then Blanch it before i Cook it in a lot of boiling unsalted water. Taste the fish after blanching it though if its still Salty Blanch it a second time. Most of the vegetables for the grand Aioli can be cooked ahead and reheated in a microwave oven or on top of the stove. Add a few Tablespoons of water for the stove top method to provide some additional moisture. The Broccoli and Zucchini can be cooked at the last minute with the squid while you Are finishing the codfish. The eggs can be hard boiled ahead too but should be placed under ice cold water immediately after cooking to prevent a Green tint from forming around the Yolks. The grand Aioli almost a meal in itself is followed by another famous dish from Provence Ratatouille. This Stew of onions Zucchini Green Pepper eggplant tomatoes and garlic sauteed in Olive Oil is Superb in summer and the dish can be served cold As Well As hot. The cooking time for my Ratatouille is less than that for More traditional versions of this dish with the tomatoes and garlic added Only in the last few minutes this helps retain the color texture and individual flavors of the vegetables. A simple dessert of strawberries with sour Cream and Brown sugar is excellent especially when the strawberries Are very Ripe. Be sure to rinse the berries before they Are hulled so that water does not get inside them at the exposed Stem end. Drain in a colander Hull and refrigerate until serving time. If you prefer serve the berries with sour Cream Only eliminating the sprinkling of Brown sugar on each of xxx Al with this Provencal menu try a White wine or a chilled dry Rose from Provence along with a crusty French bread. Provence Tarcic adds assertive nuance grand Aioli preparation time 1v2 hours 45 minutes if squid is already cleaned cooking time 30 minutes for the Aioli 11/2 slices White bread 6 to 8 cloves garlic depending on size peeled 1/4 cup milk v2 cup Mayonnaise 1 Tablespoon red wine vinegar v2 Teaspoon freshly ground Black Pepper 1/e Teaspoon Cayenne Pepper v2 Teaspoon Salt 11/4 cups extra Virgin Olive Oil at room temperature for the grand Aioli 2 pounds salted codfish 2 pounds squid about 18 to 20 this will yield about 1 Pound 10 ounces cleaned 12 Small potatoes about 1% Pound thoroughly cleaned under cold water v2 Teaspoon Salt 8 carrots trimmed and peeled 1% pounds Broccoli Cut into florets the stems peeled and Cut in half 3 Zucchini about 11/2 Pound washed trimmed at both ends and Cut into quarters Lengthwise 6 hard cooked eggs shelled. To make the Aioli place the bread and garlic in the bowl of a food processor and process for 10 to 15 seconds until the garlic is thoroughly chopped. Add milk Mayonnaise vinegar Black Pepper Cayenne and Salt and process a few seconds. With the processor running pour the Oil in a steady Stream into the bowl through the feeding tube and process until the mixture is homogenized and thick. Cover and set aside at room temperature until serving time. For the grand Aioli place codfish under cold water and rinse thoroughly. Then place the codfish in a Large Saucepan and cover with 3 quarts of cold water. Bring to a Strong boil boil 30 seconds Drain carefully rinse the fish thoroughly under cold water again and remove any visible sinew or Bones. Divide the fish into 6 portions place in a bowl of cold water and set aside. Remove the Heads and tentacles from the squid cutting the tentacles off at the limit of the eyes and removing the beak inside. Press on the body to remove the soft mixture inside. Remove the Long plastic like Backbone in the body and As much of the Black exterior skin As you can. Rinse thoroughly under cold water and set aside. Place potatoes in a Saucepan cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Cover reduce the heat and Cook until tender when pierced with a Fork about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside in the pan at serving time bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add Salt and squid. Bring to a boil reduce the heat and simmer for continued on Page 14 Friday june 22, 1990 the stars and stripes a a a Page 13
