European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 28, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The whitewashed buildings of Capri line its Harbor and Dot the Hillside above. A amps  s Island Paradise by Glenn Kessler new Day we dined under the Lemon Trees on Capri the fabled italian Island Paradise. The wine we drank came from the vineyards behind the Trattoria of la Saardina. The Sage served with the veal was picked just a few feet from our table. The Sweet fragrance of the Flower gardens All around us perfumed the air. Usually we were the Only people there for a late dinner and the proprietor doted on us. One night he enthusiastically Batter dipped some Zucchini Flowers he had harvested that morning. This is the Capri i know and love. Lately there s been something of a backlash against the Island. Some say it has become too touristy too crowded too expensive a not much More than a floating Bloomingdale s. True the place is loaded with Day trippers. Every Day thousands of them Board the hydrofoils from Naples for the 40-minute ride then swarm through the narrow streets to buy clothes and jewelry at the Chic shops. If they venture More than 200 Yards from the Piazza Umberto i the cafe lined Central Square it s to visit the Blue Grotto a Blue hued underground Lagoon aboard one of the tourist boats. But that is no real visit. It takes time to let Capri soak into your soul. In the evening the hordes Are gone and the Ever present Breeze that keeps the Island Cool and humidity free carries the distinct smell of the Island through the air. It s hard to describe the scent an invigorating mixture of wildflowers italian cooking and Saltwater. It s a clean smell since the streets of Capri Are too narrow for cars. In greek mythology Capri was the Home of the sirens who tormented Odysseus with their irresistible music. The roman emperor Tiberius loved Capri so much that toward the end of his reign he More or less gave up Rome to Rule from the Island. Capri can still cast that same spell. The Island is Only about five Miles Long and two Miles wide. Sheer Limestone Cliffs separate most of the Island from the Shore so there Are actually few beaches none of them Sandy. The Cliffs also Divide the population of the Island in half Between the rival towns of Capri and an Capri. The town of Capri which rests in the Central Valley of the Island is the flashier More attractive of the two. An Capri even higher in the Cliffs in t As convenient for tourists. It also has a few wide roads that permit cars and Small buses giving it More of the feel of a town on the Amalfi coast. Despite Capri s Small size you can easily spend a week on the Island without getting bored. I have stayed on Capri three times in the last 10 years each time longer than the last. It s not that there s a tremendous amount to do on the Island. It s just continued on Pago to june 28, 1990 stripes Magazine