European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 28, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Capri traveler s tips from the late Spring to Early fall Capri is warm during the Day but never too humid and comfortably Cool in the evening. July and August Are the High season though you May still be Able to find a hotel room. May and september have the smallest crowds views Are a Little hazy in september. Hotels Villa Brunella which is wedged into a Cliff near the Punta Tragaras on via Tragaras has a swimming Pool with a breathtaking View Over the Island. The rooms Are spacious and most have 75-Square-foot terraces. Rates Are $130 a Day. Villa Sarah on via Tiberio toward the Villa Jovis does t have a Pool and some of the rooms Are Small but it s set in a Lovely Garden. Rates Are $95 a  restaurants our favorite is la Saardina on via to Capo a half hour walk out of town just off via Tiberio. The setting is Lovely and the food is freshly prepared and inexpensive. Capri s most celebrated restaurant is la Cap Annina on via Della Botteghi where the photographs of Jackie o and other Capri Jet setters line the Walls. The food is quite Good but expensive. Besides caprese salad be sure to try Ravioli Alia caprese which is also made with Buffalo milk Mozzarella. The pizza on Capri unfortunately does t match the standards of Naples. Gelati italian ice Cream is everywhere. A . The funicular climbs the Hill from Capri s Harbor to the portion of town atop the Hill. A amps file Don t write Naples off most boats to Capri leave from Naples. To Many people this is living proof that you can Only get to heaven by passing through hell. However to a distinct minority Naples is one of the most unjustly maligned cities of the world. Give yourself a few Days and you May also find yourself defending it like any neapolitan. Admittedly Naples has its drawbacks. It can be dreadfully humid in the summer. It is loud Messy crumbling and at times scary. Some streets Are strewn with broken Glass. Others have no sidewalks. The Drivers Are legendary maniacs. They ignore All Street signs go through red lights and drive both ways on one Way streets. In the space of two minutes one of our taxis managed to break three american driving Laws and nearly kill a Young woman. I drove once in Naples a briefly a and was scared out of my wits. My neapolitan Friend cited that As the reason for All the beat up cars i saw. Quot the accidents Aren t caused by the people in Naples Quot she said. Quot they re caused by the foreigners who Don t know our  imagine the entire population of new York City on Speed and you have some idea of the neapolitan character. We saw families taking their children for walks on the Shore at 2 . There Are traffic jams at All hours of the night. Still Naples can Charm. It is located in one of the finest settings of Europe a the Bay of Naples. Mount Vesuvius with the distinctive cratered top of a Volcano rises majestically above the smog to dominate the surroundings. For the Best View take the funicular at merge Lina to the top if the humidity starts to get to you take a boat tour of the Bay. Many Tours Are located in merge Lina. Naples also has some Beautiful old churches that retain a special character underneath All the grime especially in the old City. Parts of the old City Are theoretically closed to cars but watch out a such niceties Don t seem to Stop anyone. My favorite Church is Santa Chiara a major Monument of medieval Naples. It has a Lovely attached Convent that includes a Garden with tiled Walls and pillars. Each time i visit the Garden seems a Little More shabby but it s a Nice respite. It almost blocks out the noise of the City. Across the Street from Santa Chiara is Gesu Nuovo noteworthy for its strangely coloured Marble. It s baroque at its most grotesque. Naples also has several important museums including the archaeological museum one of the finest in Europe and galleria Cap Dimonte which houses an impressive collection of italian masters. Unfortunately at times Large sections of either museum May be closed for  if All fails and you still hate Naples go to the old City and try the pizza. No City makes it better. It s prepared with fresh slices of Buffalo milk Mozzarella and cooked in Wood burning ovens. A . June 28, 1990 stripes Magazine 11