European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 2, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Continued from Page 9. Quot Bottom dear water was heaven a across the Cove to rest on some rocks out past the beaches to those gorgeous Villas for close up views of their elaborate backyard gardens anal terraces. A Here was one More town we Hod time to visit before getting on with our  school Camolli its a real jewel another port at the foot of Hills in a Horseshoe Harbor. Of course tourists come to Camolli but somehow you get the feeling that it is still genuine pure. There Are Only a few boutiques and not that Many hotels and restaurants. We visited in the evening. The Sun s strength was waning the Light was mellowing. We desperately wanted to find a Harbor Side restaurant with outdoor tables. There was Only one and it was full but the ingenious waiter told us to wait just a few minutes Hie got an assistant moved a table jut 1o the sidewalk and we were in business. There we sat watching the Sun sink into the sea and a group of fishermen Load up for a nighttime venture. A pair of sociable felines drifted by hoping for handouts hand holding couples stopped to watch the changing colors in the sky. Never mind that the food was disappointing and. Expensive everything else was perfect the Riviera at its Best. Takeco Mojo a amps map Lake Como Stopover our italian Holiday actually began farther North on Italy s Lake Como where we  nights before continuing South to the sea. That magical combination of water and mountains makes for spectacular Beauty in Italy s Alpine Lake District. Villas with terraced gardens Lush vegetation and pretty towns Dot the shores of l Ake Como one of the largest of the area s seven lakes. We stayed in Bellagio a nest at the tip of a Promontory that juts into the water dividing the Lake into two branches. Its Lovely but can be difficult to get to. The Road along the Lake s Eastern Shore leading to Bellagio is a feat of engineering or insanity. The narrow strip slices through Cliffs with frightening drop offs to the water far below then twists up and flown and around the Hilly terrain in places there s barely room for one car much less two especially if the second is a f iat with a wild italian at the wheel. With some silent prayers and some thrills we had t bargained Tor we survived tilt1 journey and Learned that most Bellagio visitors arrive by tin other route a drive up the Western Shore on a far better Road then a Terry a trip across the Lake. That s the Way we chose for our departure. Bellagio in Quot Pearl of the Lake Quot is especially popular u Ith the British who seem to fit right in at this genteel resort a place of Lowers Villas boats and shops. Staircases of pedestrian streets limb tin Hills to the town s romanesque t Tui a from where there Are. Wonderful views. I he views Are even better irom the gardens of the Villa ser Bulloni on up past llu11 Hurt h. Admission to lit huge Hillside area of interesting plants is with a tour guide Only. One afternoon we hiked up the Hills and Down to the other Side of the Promona try to pest Alio a Liny Tish Irig port. I Here s a cozy old hotel with a Terrat e restaurant at the waiter s Edge a Perlet t spot Lor  the fishermen take Ott in la Weir weather worn Little motorboats. We trekked bar k at Ross the Fields to the Village of san f Jiovanni and relaxed on its min beat a u in h is squeezed in Between the Lakeside gardens of v Talas. Our return to Bellagio was through the gardens of the Villa Mel i an impressive Park tilled with sculpture As Well As plants Bellagio or just about any Oiler resort in Italy s Lake District is Ideal As a Stopover on the Way South or As a weekend destination Lor easy relaxation in soothing surroundings. La. Sunbathers enjoy a Beautiful Section of Beach on the italian Riviera. 1ttfn otvtt7< la i .1v budget matters fishing boats and pleasure boats share the Harbor at the Well known town of Portofino. 1 Ike the French Riviera the italian Riviera is expensive. Northern Italy and the Lake District Are costly too during the trip mentioned in the related stories we spent from $75 to $90 per  a hotel fora double room with toilet and Bath and breakfast. Less expensive hotels and pensions Are available. Restaurant food in these popular tourist areas is another big Cost. Dinner at a Nice restaurant with wine costs from $20 and up per person depending on what you order and just How Quot Nice Quot the restaurant is a simple pasta and salad meal can be had for less. Restaurants Post menus with prices outside. Vind Oshop to find something that fits your budget. T Ike the autoroute in France the Autostrada in Italy Are toll roads. We spent about $25 in toils driving in Italy from the Swiss Border South to the Riviera and about $14 for the return trip from. Rapallo which was Shorter. Other costs related to this trip include a in trans e and guide tee Park at Villa Serbellon Lake Como 1,000 lire about $2.50. A Entrance tee Park and gardens at Villa Mel i Lake Como 1,000 lire about $2.50. O ferry on Lake Como from Bellagio to cad Nabbia 1 1,800 lire for car and two passengers about $1 1.50. A train irom Sestric t Evant to Monterosso and Back to Sestric Levante from Rio Maggiore Cinque Terre 2,100 lire about $1.75. A roundtrip boat trip por Lotino san Frutuoso >,000 lire about $5. A parking in Portofino 4,500 lire about $ 1,75. The Michelin Green guide to Italy is excellent Tor information on sights and attractions throughout the entire country. Michelin also publishes a red guide a Tor Italy. L Ike the one Tor France it has extensive e listings of hotels and restaurants. . 10 stripes Magazine August 2, t9�?~ 0 r