European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 24, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                I of i Hall but backs could not perform on stage. Black actors on the other hand could play the National theater but Blacks were barred from attending performances. A at Griffith stadium the old Ballpark Blacks could cheer the Washington senators but until baseball broke the color Linn after world War i no Black could play for the senators or any other major league team. However the National negro league had use of the Field when the senators were on the Road. A one Day in 1942, the often some ambulant senators Drew All of 3,000 fans for an afternoon game. That night the Black Homestead Grays Drew 28,000. That a the kind of everyday history Fitzpatrick and Goodwin revel in. A we wrote the Book for the White and Black residents and to get the tourists off the Wall 1 says a Fitzpatrick a the mall is Fine but there a More to this town than  a Fitzpatrick White is the co owner of a Washington Art gallery and wife of a prominent lawyer. She grew up in West Lafayette ind., but she s lived in Washington since 1959, Long enough to be considered a washingtonian. As a guide on smithsonian walking. Tours she came to know All the City s neighbourhoods White and Black. Goodwin is a historian for the . Mint. She was researching a bibliography of Washington a history when she and Fitzpatrick found each other and decided to collaborate. Their guide recaptures the flavor of the time when the Howard theater the City a first legitimate theater for Blacks would put on four shows a Day at 2,5, 7 30 and 10 . And again at Midnight on saturdays. In Sharp contrast to the stiff necked segregation at the National theater Whites could make up a Quarter of the audience at the Howard and while bands such As Artie shawls often performed on stage. Pearl Bailey made her show business debut there As a member of the chorus line Quot the Howard ettes Quot the guide Calls attention to institutions still flourishing a like bends Chili bowl where comedian Bill Cosby courted his wife and still drops in when he a in town a As Well As landmarks Long gone some gone with Good riddance. Blissfully gone Are the alleys of shacks which for a Century were to Washington what tenements were to new York squalid unwholesome smelly places. Only their names were attractive. Slop bucket Row and Louse Alley were on Capitol 1 Hill. In Goat Alley in the Shaw neighbourhood lived 400 Black people and one White family in 1900. Long gone too is the St. Charles hotel on Pennsylvania Avenue which before the civil War catered to a Southern clientele. It provided six basement cells where guests could keep slaves newly purchased at the City a slave Market. A sign posted by management made this offer Quot in Case of escape full value of the negro will be paid by the proprietor.�?�. Lincoln ended slavery in Washington but. Segregation Only became More deeply entrenched. Long before the Lincoln memorial was erected a and dedicated at a 1922 ceremony at which honoured Black guests sat in an All negro Section a freed Black slaves collected Money to erect their own tribute to the great emancipator. The emancipation memorial near Capitol Hill is a statue portraying a Black Man breaking his chains As Lincoln holds the emancipation proclamation in his outstretched hand. In 1939, the Steps of the Lincoln memorial were the scene of an extraordinary concert a landmark event in Black and Washington history. A. Contralto Marian Anderson Sang there before 75,000people on an easter sunday she had been denied use of Constitution Hall by its owners the daughters of the american revolution. Twenty four years later Martin Luther King or standing at the same place delivered his Quot i have a dream speech during a March on Washington to petition Congress to pass a civil rights Bill. Quot we were struck by How Many of our Black neighbors played out their lives on the National stage a says Fitzpatrick. A a she ticks some off jazzman Duke  grew up on t Street and also played the Howard theater a handsome local Bridge is named or him now Charles Houston a or. Civil rights a who argued cases before the supreme court including the monumental Brown is. Board of education which desegregated schools across America and in its capital and Frederick Douglass the Early Black statesman  another Bridge in this cily of Rivers. Douglass born Inlo slavery escaped to the North bought his own Freedom with his own earnings and As an anti slavery lecturer became the spokesman Lor his race. A a a some of the guidebooks other landmarks and personalities a dentist Jol n Washington collector of Lincoln Memorabilia for More than 35 years he interviewed elderly Blacks who had know Lincoln or his Ardes and staff and published it All in a Book they knew Lincoln. A educator Anna Julia Cooper. Bom into slavery she taught High school latin for nearly 40 years. At age 67 she won a doctoral degree from the sorbonne defending a in French a her dissertation Quot the attitude of France in regard to slavery american during the revolution Quot she died Al age 105 in 1964 a Mary Church Terrell. She is believed to have been the first Black to serve on a school Board in i he United states. She served on Washington s for 24 years and worked with Susan b. Anthony or three decades in the women s suffrage movement. Her life ran the Span from the emancipation in 1863, the year of her birth to the supreme court s desegregation decision in 1954, inc year she died. A Willis Richardson who in the 1920s became i to first Black to have a serious play produced on Broadway. A Quot the Guido to Dlack Washington Quot is published by  tonks inc. 171 Madison ave., new York City . 10016, in a $14 9s Papol Back Odilion. Fri ii urn min really not that different from Pialle by Alessandra Stanle new York times Obert Fridman French and therefore Rapperly dressed for cocktails in St. Tropez gazed past the 19th-Century wooden Row houses on Sylvan Terrace in Harlem and reflected on the american condition a a our Manhattan friends said we were crazy to come Here. I Don t think new yorkers refuse to visit Harlem because of fear Quot Fridman said meditatively Quot they have a guilty conscience a they realize they have done nothing for the  if it s August and a French tour bus is nearby this must be Harlem. French visitors climb the Empire state building they shop at Bloomingdale a they take in a Broadway show. But More than anything else and More than anyone else except perhaps the japanese they want to see Harlem. The French go not As timid tourists but As adventurers with a proprietary interest. Faster than you can say Josephine Baker they will Tell you that they discovered jazz. And much faster than you can say Alexis de. Tocqueville they will dissect american society. Fridmanis wife Annette who had been peering suspiciously through Una Werdmuller style glasses at the bubbling Street life of 125th and Adam Clayton Powell or. Boulevard was not impressed. Quot it s really not that different from Pialle Quot she said turning toward her tour guide. Quot Are you avoiding the dangerous areas the tour guide nodded apologetically. Shrugging his shoulders at the Bourgeois surroundings Fridman headed Back for Theau conditioned bus. Of this is Harlem then i am  later Fudman was favourably impressed by the Fried Chicken and collard greens Quot Well spiced Quot at Sylvia a a Large soul food restaurant on Lenox Avenue that is to foreign tourists what Les Deus magots is to americans in Paris. He was less enthusiastic about showman a cafe where jazz and two free drinks were included in the $60 Harlem by night tour. Quot a Little sterile Quot he said coolly assessing the ski Lodge style Wood panelling and hanging plants. Quot a Little too  most major new York City tour operators include Harlem on their itineraries and there Are three companies that offer specialized Tours of Church gospel music soul food architecture and Urban life. One of them Harlem spirituals inc., which was founded by a Frenchman shepherds 20,000 foreigners through Harlem a year. The majority Are French and they go in search of the ghosts of count Basie and Louis Armstrong and to bask in warm indignation about american Urban strife. Quot most of them Are Nice families Quot William Montez 47, a tour bus Driver said. A they ask to go to the Rotten Rotten  tour guides struggle valiantly to dispel preconceived notions about Harlem. They bypass crack neighbourhoods and soup kitchens there tourist buses Are sometimes welcomed with stones bottles and raw eggs and stress the Renaissance showing off the recently reopened Apollo theater and the better City blocks. Quot i was expecting Small narrow streets garbage fire escapes police sirens gunshots Quot Yves Francois a commercial Art director from Paris said. Quot a real  preconceived notions go both ways. Quot the French have a great respect for their language Quot said Clarence Cooper the manager of Sylvia s restaurant who Learned his French in Quebec. Quot if you done to speak it proper they get offended a he said adding Quot if you speak it Well they Are very  a Cooper conceded that his regular patrons occasionally get tired of watching busloads of foreigners trooping in Friday August 24, 1990 Quot. Rile French visitors Are attracted by Harlem a jazz history a a Here count Basie left in a 1920s photo. Quot this is their place they feel invaded who said then added Quot but everyone is Nice about it. We re always Happy to see Money spent in  sometimes even the tour guides Harbor misconceptions. Explaining social conditions Panos Foscolos a greek emigre and Lour guide who Speaks fluent French creatively mingled what he called statistics on illiteracy drug addiction and life expectancy Lor Black males a lower than in Bangladesh Quot with his own impressions of Black culture. Quot you will not see any yellow taxi cabs in t Tarter tie stated firmly into a hand held microphone. Quot Blacks do not like to Lake White people s cabs they prefer their  David Troup a tour guide who has lived in t Tarter informs his groups that because yellow taxis mostly refuse to drive to Harlem residents Are obliged to Roxy on Gypsy cabs Troup who has Aiso lived in pans explained that French tourists occasionally need special handling it is a waste of time just to Tell them not to take photographs in Church. Quot i Hoy la do it  he said Quot but if you Tell them that better than anyone else the French know How to show respect and hat they must serve As an example to the others then they  t take  stars and stripes Page 17