European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - September 13, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                San Sebastian Queen of the Basque coast by Richard West los Angeles times Quot the Pearl of the cant Abrian  it s an accolade that the Basque citizens of the City of san Sebastian still take considerable Pride in. It s a City that Many Call Spain s most Beautiful with Broad promenades Lush Parks smooth beaches and carefully restored buildings. It rests gracefully at the Edge of a Bay called la Concha the Shell nestled at the feet of two mountains Urzull and Iguelmo. San Sebastian grew from a medieval fishing Village to an important trading port and Industrial town but its reputation As a resort was Long overshadowed by. Biarritz just 30 Miles up the coast in France. But the City s Beautiful setting three Sandy beaches the Ondarreta on one end Concha in the Center and Gros on the other end and mild weather helped make it a favorite of monies spaniards and in the late 1800s they frequently were joined by Queen Maria Cristina and other members of the Royal family eventually san Sebastian gained International acclaim and it has since outdistanced its rivals to reign As the Queen of the Basque coastline. The City is at its most glorious when seen from the peaks that flank it. A funicular about $1.20, round trip and a narrow toll Road about 80 cents per person Lead to the amusement Park at the Summit of mount Iguelmo and the View from there is spectacular. Those who choose mount Urzull for a Vantage Point face a 45-minute climb on foot but will find there a vast Public Park and an old Stone fortress the Castillo de Santa Cruz de la Mota in addition to a memorable Panorama of the City and its Bay. At the base of Urzull is Ciudad vie a or old town a though it is not As old As the visitor might think. San Sebastian was born at the foot of Urzull Between the Harbor and the Mouth of the Drumea River but the original Section of the City was swept by a devastating fire in 1813, and most of its buildings had to be replaced. Still the narrow streets ornate architecture and remnants of the massive Walls of Ciudad vie a have considerable character. There you will discover the Basilica of Santa Maria Del Coro with its striking 18th-Century Portal and a painting of Saint Sebastian riddled with arrows hanging above the gilded altar. Statues of saints and a 19th-Century Organ made by master Cavallio Coll also enrich the mostly baroque Interior. Near the Church is san Telmo museum a former 16th-Century dominican monastery. Its Cloisters Are lined with Stone funerary crosses some dating Back to the first Century. The former Chapel now a conference Hall is decorated with a Amadeu style paintings by Jose Maria Sert. The collection includes works by Al Greco Ignacio Zuloaga and others. At the Center of the old Section is the Plaza de la Constitution built in 1722. The vast Cobblestone Square is lined by houses with tall arcades and numbered balconies a a reminder of the Days when the Square doubled As an Arena for bullfights and the balconies offered the Best seating. At the water s Edge tucked behind ancient Stone jetties and seawalls is the old port today jammed with Small pleasure Craft and brightly painted fishing boats. Along the embankment at the foot of Urzull Are seafaring and oceanographic museums and an aquarium All at the sea Palace. Other attractions await the explorer. Near the River Are the Oqwendo gardens and the Teatro Victoria Eugenia the site of frequent classical concerts and this year s International film festival sept. 20-29. Back toward the Concha Beach is the Ayun Ramiento or City Hall an English victorian building that was erected in 1887 As the Gran Casino the landscaped gardens of Alderi Eder Are in front of it. On the other Side of the Ayun Ramiento is an elegant promenade the pase de la Concha a the place to see and be seen. At the Promontory that divides the Concha and Ondarreta beaches is the Palacio de Miramar a summer residence designed in 1889 for Maria Cristina by an English architect Selden Wornum farther around the Bay at the base of Iguelmo is an austere Stone Plaza designed by Basque sculptor Jorge Oteiza. There attached to rocks that Are pounded by the sea is the comb of the wind sculpture by another Basque artist Eduardo Chilli a. San Sebastian also is one of Spain s liveliest cities. The old Section of the City gets hopping at the aperitif hour about 8  everyone crowds into the bars and Small restaurants around the Plaza de la Constitution to drink the inexpensive local White wine and pick at shellfish squid and crustaceans. Fine food is a Way of life in san Sebastian and All the Basque country with the emphasis on seafood fresh ingredients and a cooking style that brings out natural flavors. The City the Home of the noted Institute of gastronomy has scores of members Only dining clubs. But Don t despair for there Are even More Fine Public restaurants. But there s no need to pay the High prices of the big name eateries like Arak which rates three stars from Michelin. Bars All Over the City serve up a delicious selection of tapas or appetizers and Many people happily make a meal of them steamed mussels Fried Calamari rings octopus salad grilled squid stuffed mushrooms baked crab spicy sausage and cured Ham. Each bar has its specially. With All this in its favor it s hard not to sing san Sebastian s praises. And these Days even the French have joined the chorus leaving Biarritz to play second fiddle. For information on travel in Spain Contact the Spanish National tourist office at Marla de Moline 50, e-?8006 Madrid. There a also an office in West Germany at Pyllu Strasse 14. D-6000 Frankfurt 1. 6 stripes Magazine september 13, 1990