European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 12, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                A grim a amps map continued from Page 13 stacking the Ripe peppers in Long narrow cylindrical mesh bags made out of red plastic the same length As traditional handmade strands these uniformly shaped bags of peppers look like giant sausages suspended from the overhanging roofs of farmhouses. Perhaps that s appropriate since paprika is also an important ingredient in hungarian Salami. In Kalocsa the annual Harvest is celebrated with a paprika festival in september known As the Kalocsa paprika Days it features an exhibition of food products and agricultural machinery a professional conference on the topic of paprika various sports events a Quot paprika cup Quot International chess tournament and a fish soup cooking contest the highlight of All this is the paprika Harvest Parade Complete with local bands and colourful Folk dancing groups followed that same night by a paprika Harvest Ball. We stayed at a recently opened hotel in a beautifully renovated 200-year-old building across the Street from the towns magnificent baroque Cathedral. The hotel restaurant featured such dishes As Kalocsa fish soup made with Carp from the nearby Danube and paprika from Kalocsay a own Fields. Our first destination in town was the paprika museum. Consulting the map we discovered that Kalocsa even has a paprika Street paprika Utica a but the museum was located elsewhere on Karl Marx Square Marx Karoly Ter the paprika museum is a Small rather dimly lit exhibition on two floors of an old building in the Middle of town. It could be easily be subtitled a everything you always wanted to know about paprika but were afraid to ask Quot the elderly caretaker delighted that we had come to the museum proceeded to explain Many of the exhibits in great detail. The fact that he spoke Only hungarian a a language we done to understand a did not deter him in the least. Fortunately we had done our Homework ahead of time so we knew or could figure out most of what he was talking about. The museum documents the history and techniques of paprika production in Hungary. Diagrams and models explain past and present methods of cultivating peppers for paprika spice. Photographs drawings and actual pieces of equipment demonstrate old and new techniques for processing the peppers into one of Hungary a most important agricultural products a so economically important that its even referred to As Quot red  adding Charm to the exhibition Are antique paprika spice containers old Stock certificates from paprika companies and historic photographs a although Hungary and paprika Are practically synonymous paprika As a spice and cooking ingredient is a relative newcomer to hungarian cuisine no one is certain whether Pepper plants first arrived in Hungary in the 16th Century a from Central America via Spain and Turkey a or whether they came to Hungary several Hundred years earlier from China through India. But food historians agree that Pepper cultivation became firmly established in Hungary in the 16th and 17th centuries during the turkish occupation of the country. It Wasny to until the late 18th Century that paprika gained widespread acceptance As a cooking spice in Hungary. A amps Leah Larkin strings of dried peppers garlic and ears of com Are common sights at markets in Hungary fantastic in Hungary several types of paprika Are available. We be modified the recipes Here so that Basic american commissary paprika can be used. For example when hot paprika was specified we included the addition of a Small amount of Cayenne Pepper if you travel to Hungary however Why not Stock up on several varieties of the real thing. Paprika potatoes  this is sort of a potato paprika sour Cream Stew. Serve As a Side dish to accompany roast Chicken or roast pork. If you choose to saute the onions in vegetable Oil instead of butter or lard this would make an excellent vegetarian main dish. The flavor is fantastic. Just Don t think about the cholesterol. 2 Tablespoons paprika 4 Tablespoons butter or lard 2 medium or 1 Large onion chopped 2 Large cloves garlic minced 1 Teaspoon Salt 16 Teaspoon Caraway seeds 2 pounds new potatoes or 6 to 8 medium size boiling potatoes peeled and Cut into 16-Inch cubes 1 16 to 2 cups warm Chicken Stock 1 cup sour Cream melt the butter or lard into a Large Saucepan. Add the chopped onions and saute Over medium High heat until they Are translucent. Add the minced garlic and saute for 1 minute. Rel paper for 11 Poisall to bal Over sauce Aboul Are we sour i Lief Servili papi Gorf Tol boiler fast a this 1 Rod 1/4ci 2 me 1 Pel cd Sef cd 1 Lari 1cui Lel Over i on Orl Irani and come redi Pap Page 14 a a a the stars and stripes Friday october i used Only in peasant dishes it gradually entered Chens of the Gentry and the nobility. Today it would ref to imagine hungarian cuisine minus its paprika potent. Flowing Are some of the paprika recipes that i collected g my travels in Hungary. It Varyat a Ivanuski that a hungarian for Bon edit. Sharon Hudgins is a freelance writer in Munich paprika primer Star to popular belief the hottest paprika of the Bright red ones. Just the opposite the brightest paprika powders Are the Mildest in taste whereas the Stred and Light Brownish coloured paprika Are the St in flavor. Special Quality Kuld Leges brightest red of All ungarian paprika this is one of the Mildest in flavor. Ilent Aroma. Delicate Sci mentes a semele this very mild no paprika ranges in color from Light to dark red ending on the year it was produced. Gives a Rich color flavor to the foods it is cooked with. Exquisite delicate Csemez paprika similar in Rand Aroma to delicate paprika but with a slightly Ler taste. Pungent exquisite delicate is pos a semele Nikant similar in color and Aroma to delicate and exquisite delicate paprika but a bit spicier in flavor. One of the most popular of the hotter varieties of ground paprika a Noble Sweet Ede Nemes Bright red in color with a mildly spicy flavor. Most of the paprika exported from Hungary to the rest of the world is Noble Sweet a Semi Sweet cd tees medium hot paprika. A Rose r6zsa Pale red in color but with a Strong Aroma and hot spicy taste. A hot Eros Light Brownish yellow in color this is the hottest of the ground paprika  Cornerstones George Lang hungarian gastronome and restaurateur refers to Quot the holy Trinity of lard onion and pure ground paprika Quot As the basis for Many classic hungarian dishes. One could also add sour Cream to that list making those ingredients Quot the four Cornerstones Quot of hungarian cooking. A lard necessary to achieve the Correct melding of flavors to produce an authentic tasting dish. The substitution of butter and or vegetable Oil will change the flavor although not necessarily adversely melt the lard in a pan set Over medium High heat. Hungarian Cooks say that if you add a Pinch of Salt the hot lard won t spit out of the pan. A onions chopped or thinly sliced then sauteed in the hot lard until translucent some recipes Call for the onions to be slightly browned which changes their taste. A paprika should be stirred into the hot fat usually after the onions have been cooked in order to dissolve and release its full color and Aroma. But the paprika must not be allowed to Burn or it will turn bitter and ruin the dish. To avoid this turn the heat under the pan to very Low if using a Gas stove a or remove the pan from the heat if using an electric stove a and stir the paprika. Quickly add the meat or some of the liquid called for in the recipe to reduce the temperature. Paprika also functions As flour does to thicken a sauce. It adds depth of taste to the sauce instead of dulling the flavors of the other ingredients As flour often does. A sour Cream should be added after All the other ingredients Are cooked just before the dish is ready to serve. Most recipes require that you merely heat the sour Cream together with the other ingredients for a Short time without letting it come to a boil to prevent curdling. Avor e heat to very Tow and stir in the Satt and Caraway seeds. Cook Ute stirring constantly. Add the and enough warm Chicken Stock cover them. Bring mixture to boil heat reduce to Low cover the n and simmer the mixture for minutes a or until the potatoes r but not falling apart. He potatoes Are done stir in the m and serve immediately. Largeor6medium-size mushrooms paprika e the mushrooms use a hard a Slicer you la be surprised How easy it makes the preparation of d Tablespoon paprika stick butter or 16 cup lard m onions chopped fresh mushrooms pm goons or a mixture of i kinds of mushrooms and thinly sliced love garlic minced or Cream Oon Salt 6 butter or lard in a Large Skillet cum High heat. Add the chopped and saute until they Are no add the sliced mushrooms de garlic. Stir until Well a a and coated with the melted fat. Be heat to very Low Sprinkle the venue ingredients in the Skillet. And mix Well. Cover the Skillet and simmer the mixture for about 10 minutes or until the mushrooms begin to turn soft just before serving add the Salt and stir in the sour Cream. Cook the mixture stirring constantly Over Low heat for 1 to 2 minutes until the sour Cream is warm. Do not let it boil. Serve immediately. Yield 4 Large or 6 medium Servings serving suggestions in Hungary this dish is served Over toasted bread or Rolls or accompanied by dumplings or Plain Rice. I find that it makes a wonderfully Rich Side dish to accompany roast Chicken or roast pork. Szekely goulash sz6kelygulyds a pretty Pale Salmon Orange color Szekely goulash is a surprisingly delicate combination of ingredients it is important to use Best Quality mild tasting sauerkraut a not the sour Salty version. This is a classic hungarian main dish. A cup paprika a Green Bell Pepper finely chopped 16 red Bell Pepper finely chopped 1 dried hot Pepper whole optional 3 cups mild sauerkraut pre cooked 2 Tablespoons lard or rendered Goose fat 2 Tablespoons butter 2 Tablespoons Corn Oil 1 targe onion chopped 1 to 116 pounds pork Boneless loin or Boneless pork roast Cut into 1-Lnch cubes 3 targe cloves garlic minced 1 Tablespoon Caraway seeds 1 cup Chicken Stock or % cup Chicken Stock and 16 cup dry White wine 1 medium to Large Dill Pickle finely chopped 1 cup sour Cream or substitute a total of 6 Tablespoons lard for the entire recipe Drain the sauerkraut and put it into a colander. Rinse it under cold running water and set aside to Drain again heat the lard butter and Corn Oil in a Large Skillet Over medium High heat until All the fat is melted. Saute the chopped onion until translucent. Reduce heat to very Low Sprinkle All the paprika Over the onions in the Skillet and stir Well. Add the pork mix Well and saute until the pork is browned. Add chopped red and Green Bell Pepper minced garlic Caraway seeds whole dried Pepper and Chicken Stock. Stir Well. Increase heat to High bring the mixture to a boil reduce heat to medium Low cover and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Stir in sauerkraut and chopped Dill Pickle. Mix Well. Cover and simmer an additional 20 to 30 minutes. Just before serving stir in the sour Cream and Cook Over medium heat until the mixture is warm. Yield 4 Large or 6 medium Servings. Serving suggestion serve accompanied by Plain Rice boiled potatoes or egg noodles. Paprika Chicken csfrkepapr1k�s 4 Tablespoons paprika 1a Teaspoon Cayenne Pepper 1 whole fresh Long red hot Pepper 3 Tablespoons Corn Oil 2 Tablespoons butter 216 to 3-Pound Chicken Cut into serving pieces 2 medium onions chopped 3 Large cloves garlic minced 2 Tablespoons Brandy 3a cup Chicken Stock 16 to 16 cup sour Cream Salt to taste or substitute a total of 5 Tablespoons lard or rendered Goose fat for the entire recipe heat the Oil and butter or card Goose fat in a Large 4-to 6-quart heavy stove top casserole. Brown the Chicken pieces Over medium High heat. Using a slotted spoon remove the Chicken and set aside. Add the chopped onions to the casserole and saute the onions until translucent. Add the garlic and Cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to very Low stir in ail the paprika and Cook for an additional minute stirring constantly. Add Brandy stir to de Glaze the pan. Add the browned Chicken pieces and mix Well. Add the Chicken Stock and whole hot red Pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil Over High heat reduce heat to Low cover and simmer for 45 to 60 minutes. Using a slotted spoon remove the Chicken to a serving Platter and keep warm. Bring the liquid in the casserole to a boil Over High heat and reduce the liquid by about one third. Turn the heat to Low and slowly stir in the sour Cream until the sauce is smooth. Add Salt to taste. Pour the sauce Over the Chicken and serve immediately. Yield 6 Servings. Serving suggestions serve accompanied by egg noodles Plain Rice or boiled potatoes. In Hungary this dish is traditionally served with Small egg dumplings called Galuska. 1990 the stars and stripes a a a Page 15