European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - April 25, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Amsterdam s overlooked neighbors amps photos by l. Emmett Lewis or. The groote Markt is filled with buyers and browsers looking at Flowers vegetables and Flea Market items. The City Hall is at Center in the  Norm Zeigler travel outdoor writer. The dutch City of Haarlem has Long been overshadowed by its work Dass neighbor Amsterdam. But this old Brick town on the Sparne River is a. Rewarding destination in its own right. Located about 11 Miles West of Amsterdam and Only four Miles from the North sea coast Haarlem seems undecided about whether it is a port City or an Inland town. Heavily Laden barges sail through the downtown area on their Way to or from the North sea canal on weekends local Farmers cart their  produce to1 the outdoor Market. A Haar Jeni Rose to importance during the ninth through 11th centuries As the court Headquarters of the counts of Holland. By the 13th Century it had grown1 enough to be granted  charter in 1245. This was 55 years before Amsterdam. Today if is the capita of the province of North Holland and an important Center for textiles tourism printing and pharmaceuticals a. Haarlem is a City for walking. It is Small enough to be manageable and much of the Center is either a pedestrian area or has limited Access for cars. Conspicuously absent Are the noise Bustle and High prices of Amsterdam. This is a City of smiling people cozy streets and wind whipped canals spanned by Many Bridges. Wind your Way through the narrow curving streets stroll along the spa Arne or pause for Coffee and cake at one of the cafes. The City s Many three or four Story Brick houses with stepped Gables give Haarlem a distinctive medieval look. More than 1,200 of the town s buildings have been designated As historical monuments. Except for the cars and modern shop windows Many of the streets and squares could be out of a 17th-Century dutch painting. There Are no skyscrapers in this town. Most of the streets Are paved with the same red bricks a blackened and purple with age a that dominate the building facades. Haarlem a most striking feature is the groote Markt. The Central Market Square dominated by the 15th Century groote Kerk great Church also known As St. Bavo s Quot Ker this late gothic masterpiece constructed from 1390 to 1520,was originally a roman Catholic Cathedral but became a dutch reformed Church during the reformation. It contains a splendid 1738 Organ a with More than 5,000 pipes a that was played by Mozart and Handel. A a. A a at the opposite end of the groote Markt is the sprawling stad Huis City Hal parts of which Date to the. 13th Century. At one time it was a Hunting Lodge for the counts of Holland who founded the City. The Struc Ture. Has Many attractive features such As its italian. Renaissance facade the count s Hall and the Zijlstra at. Wing with its distinctive Row of chimneys. Other historic buildings surround the groote Markt which on saturdays fills up with a Lively weekend Market. The Canvas covered stalls feature everything from Flowers 8 stripes Magazine april 25, 1991