European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - July 26, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The fruits of summer by Barbara Kafka new York times like russian grand Dukes and madmen we now eat strawberries All year round but they Are so much better in this their natural season. They Are also much cheaper. With a microwave oven it is possible to resurrect the old fashioned pleasure of making Strawberry preserves. And preserves made with a microwave oven Are better than those made on a stove because the Shorter cooking time retains More of the fruit s color and flavor. In addition the Kitchen is cooler the risk of scorching is eliminated and a jell is always achieved without adding pectin. Best of All the delicious scent of cooking strawberries still dominates the Kitchen the Strawberry sauce in the accompanying recipes is not a classic preserve but it is too Good to pass up. Serve it Cool on Vanilla ice Cream or waffles. Leftover sauce can be Frozen in 1-cup microwavable containers. To defrost uncover and Cook in a High Power oven 90 seconds stir and Cook 45 seconds More. In a Low Power oven Cook for two minutes stir and Cook 90 seconds More. A High Power oven is 650 to 700 Watts under the old Industry Standard and 750 to 800 Watts under the new one a Low Power oven is 450 to 500 Watts under the old Standard and 550 to 600 Watts under the new. By the Way Wash strawberries before hulling and cutting otherwise they will bleed. To Hull strawberries make a conical incision at the Stem end to remove All the White pith. Strawberry Orange marmalade total time 1 hour 45 minutes 2 juice oranges 2 cups water 3 cupa sugar 4 pints fresh strawberries hulled and Cut in 16-Inch pieces 7 cups cup fresh Lemon juice. 1. Sterilize jars and lids according to head to the Farmers Fields where you can pick your own strawberries but done to eat them All. Save enough to make Jam a pie or Strawberry Shortcake. Strawberries preserved via the microwave manufacturers instructions 2. Remove the skin including the pith from the oranges with a paring knife. Juice the oranges and Reserve a cup. Cut the skin into strips 1/16-Inch wide. 3. Place the Orange Peel and water in a 4-cup Glass measure. Cover tightly with microwave plastic wrap. Cook at 100 percent Power in a High Power oven for 7 minutes prick plastic to release steam. 4. Remove from oven and uncover. Drain the Orange Peel and refresh under cold running water. Place in a 5-quart casserole with a tightly fitted lid. Stir in sugar. Cook covered for 10 minutes. 5. Uncover and stir in strawberries. Cook uncovered for 50 minutes stirring three times. Stir in Lemon juice and reserved Orange juice. Cook for 15 minutes. 6. Remove from oven and pack into jars. Low Power variation. Cook As in step 3 for 11 minutes. Cook As in step 4 for 15 minutes. Cook As in step 5 for 2 hours stirring three times omitting Lemon by Carleton Jones the Baltimore Sun the berries and tree fruits of summer Are delicious any Way you fix them. But for a taste of nostalgia and Down Home americana nothing beats a fruit Cobbler. Cobblers of course have one of the most dug in country images in the history of american fare but there is no reason for the Breed to stay typecast it is time for cobblers to dress up and come to the party. That can be accomplished while still respecting the essential originality of the Cobbler what amounts to baking and stewing in the same operation. Apples Are particularly Good choices for this culinary Art form. Good cooking grades seem to be available year round these Days including the popular Granny Smiths red cooking apples also seem to be in More abundance and Are Good choices for the Cobbler treatment. Seasoning is the key to Good cobblers seasoning with an essence that complements but does not hide the real fruit flavor. In this regard you can take hints from master chefs whose secrets Are by no Means too Complex to bother with. The new York pastry master Nick Malgieri makes a peach Raspberry Cobbler that is seasoned with a 1 Teaspoon of Vanilla extract and a Teaspoon of Almond extract a Little Nutmeg and 2 Tablespoons of Lemon juice to vie pint of raspberries and 10 or 12 peaches or apples if you prefer a. Basically the proportions of a Standard Cobbler that of course includes pastry and butter and sugar in the usual amounts. American country style cobblers got a new twist in and Orange juice. Remove from oven and stir in the juices. Yield 4 cups. Strawberry sauce total time 50 minutes 4 pints fresh strawberries hulled Cut in half if very Large 2 cups sugar a Teaspoon freshly ground Black Pepper optional a cup fresh Lemon juice. 1. Stir together strawberries sugar and Pepper if using in a 5-quart casserole with a tightly fitted lid. Cook at 100 percent Power in a High Power oven for 10 minutes. Uncover and stir. 2. Cook uncovered for 20 minutes stirring once. Stir in Lemon juice. Cook uncovered for 10 minutes. 3. Remove from oven. Low Power variation Cook As in step 1 for 15 minutes. Cook As in step 2 for 1 hour 40 minutes stirring 3 times. Yield 4va cups. Southern chef Bill Neal s latest volume biscuits spoon bread and Sweet potato pie in which he comments at length on his grandma s clabber based Cobbler. In recreating the dish he substitutes Yogurt and Cream for clabber which is thickly curdled sour milk. For the recipe see below Neal s recipe touches the heart of the Cobbler mystique in a simple Way giving it grandmas lift with the milk additions a reminder that basically the Cobbler is just an informal pie in which the fruit has been allowed to perfume the dough. But a heavy result is hardly inevitable. For starters Here is the classic Apple Cobbler an 8-Inch-Square cake most simply displayed in the Fanny Farmer Cookbook Knopf 1987. Spice it up at will and glamorize it with scoops of Frozen Yogurt on top. Match the ice Cream or the Yogurt with the flavor of the fresh fruit or use the Topping As an accent butterscotch on Apple Vanilla or Lemon on berries Etc. Apple Cobbler 12 Tablespoons butter 3 cups tart apples peeled and sliced a Teaspoon Salt a cups sugar 16 cup milk 1 egg 116 cups flour 1 2 Teaspoons baking powder heat the oven to 375 degrees. Melt 4 Tablespoons of butter and  an 8-Inch-Square cake pan. Spread it evenly and arrange apples Over it. Mix a Teaspoon of the Salt with a cup of sugar and Sprinkle evenly Over apples set aside. Melt the remaining 8 Tablespoons of butter in a Small pan remove from heat add milk and egg and beat Well. Mix flour baking powder the remaining v2 cup of sugar and the remaining vie Teaspoon Salt in a bowl. Stir in milk and egg mixture and beat until smooth. Pour Over the apples and bake for about 30 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Serve from the pan in squares fruit Side up,.serve Plain or with whipped Cream or Vanilla ice Cream if you wish. Serves six. Barbecued Blueberry Cobbler 2 pints blueberries 16 cup sugar 1 Tablespoon cornstarch 1 Tablespoon water 1 Tablespoon Lemon juice 1 11-ounce package refrigerated heat and serve biscuits 116 cups heavy or whipping Cream optional prepare outdoor Grill for barbecuing. Meanwhile in a heavy 12-Inch, All Metal Skillet stir blueberries sugar cornstarch water and Lemon juice until mixed. Top with biscuits and cover. Place Skillet on Grill Over medium heat Cook 20 minutes or until hot and bubbly. Serve in dessert bowls with heavy Cream if you like. For Range top cooking about 30 minutes before serving prepare Blueberry mixture with biscuits As above. Cook Over medium Low heat until Blueberry mixture is hot and bubbly. Serve As above this Goodie is 175 calories per serving without Cream and 295 with. Serves 10. From the new Good housekeeping Cookbook by Mildred Young Hearst books. Peach Cobbler with clabber biscuits fruit 6 cups peeled pitted and sliced peaches v2 cup pitted sour cherries or raspberries 4 Tablespoons flour 1v2 cup sugar a dash of cinnamon or Nutmeg juice of 16 Lemon biscuits 2 cups flour 2 Tablespoons sugar 3 Teaspoons baking powder 1 Teaspoon Salt 1 Teaspoon baking soda just like grandma used to make and better 4 Tablespoons butter a cup Plain Yogurt a cup of heavy Cream heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss fruit with 4 a Tablespoons flour sugar spice and Lemon juice. Pour into a Well buttered 9 by 3-Inch baking dish. Sift the 2 cups flour sugar baking powder Salt and baking soda. Cut in butter until flour resembles coarse meal. Stir in the Yogurt and Cream. Turn dough out on a tightly floured surface and knead gently 10 or 12 strokes. Pat out about v Inch thick and Cut into 10 rounds.  on top of fruit Cut scraps into Small diamonds and fill in the spaces Between the biscuits with the smaller pieces. Bake at 425 degrees for about 25 minutes until fruit is bubbling and biscuits Are Golden Brown. Serve with whipped Cream or ice Cream. Serves 10. From biscuits spoon bread and Sweet potato pie by Bill Neal Knopf 1990. A peach Cobbler 4 cups peeled and sliced Ripe peaches is cup plus 3 Tablespoons granulated sugar 1 Teaspoon grated Lemon zest 1 Tablespoon fresh Lemon juice a Teaspoon Almond extract116 cups unbleached All purpose flour 1 Tablespoon baking powder 16 Teaspoon Salt v3 cup vegetable shortening 1 eggy lightly beaten a cup milk. 1 cup heavy Cream chilled 3 to 4 Tablespoons peach Brandy or peach cordial a. S a a a . When making Cobbler pour the cooked fruit into a baking pan. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 2-quart baking dish. Arrange reached in baking dish. Sprinkle with v cup sugar the Lemon zest and juice and Almond extract. Bake for 20 minutes. While peaches Are baking sift flour 1 Tablespoon of remaining sugar baking powder and Salt together into a bowl Cut in shortening until mixture resembles Cornmeal. Combine beaten egg and milk and mix into dry ingredients until just combined. Remove peaches from oven and quickly drop dough by Large spoonfuls Over surface. Sprinkle with remaining 2 Tablespoons sugar. Return to the oven for 1.5 to 20 minutes until top is firm and Golden Brown. Whip Cream to soft peaks and flavor with peach Brandy to taste serve Cobbler warm accompanied by whipped Cream. Serves four to six. From Silver palate Cookbook by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins Workman publishing 1982. Apple strudel tartlets with hard sauce 216 by 12-Inch sheets of phyllo stacked Between sheets of Wax paper and covered with a dampened Kitchen Towel. J 3 Tablespoons unsalted butter melted and cooled 2 Mcintosh apples 1 Tablespoon Golden raisins 1 Teaspoon chopped pecans 1 Tablespoon firmly packed Light Brown sugar hard sauce 1 Tablespoon unsalted butter softened 4 Tablespoons confectioners sugar 16 Teaspoon Calvados rum or Bourbon heat oven to 400 degrees. Lay one Sheet of the phyllo on a work surface Brush it lightly with butter and Cut into 8 rectangles each about 6 by 4 inches. Arrange rectangles overlapping them slightly in a a cup Tartlet or muffin tin. Repeat procedure in another tin with remaining Sheet of a phyllo and some of the remaining Butler. Peel and Core the apples Cut them Lengthwise into eighths then slice thinly crosswise. In a bowl loss apples with remaining Butler raisins pecans and Brown sugar. Divide filling Between tartlets and bake on a Jellyroll pan in the lower third of the oven Tor 20 minutes or until the phyllo is Crisp and Golden. Make hard sauce while tartlets Are baking. In a bowl whisk together butter confectioners sugar and Calvados until mixture is smooth. Whisk in <6 Teaspoon hot water then whisk the sauce until Fluffy and chill. Transfer each Tartlet carefully to a plate and top while they Are still hot with the hard sauce. Serves two. From the Best of gourmet volume i random House inc. 1991. A v a Quot % \ v. It raspberries Are so Good Many prefer them Quot a  they can be combined with peaches for a tasty Cobbler or served with ice Cream. Of Page 14 the stars and stripes Friday july 26, 1991 the stars and stripes a Page