European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 4, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                For a tropical taste try West Indian by Meridith Winder . Bureau if you can t afford a Caribbean vacation try out the tropics with a taste of West Indian cooking. A it s our version of soul food a said Jacqueline Christie a native of Kingston Jamaica who runs a catering business out of her Home in London s Hackney Borough. A much of our cooking is based on fruits and vegetables grown in the West indies Quot said the 34-year-old who left Jamaica when she was 9, but periodically returns to visit her family. Quot we also eat a lot of Rice and peas 1 but when West indians refer to peas they Are not talking about Sweet peas. Many of the peas they refer to Are called Beans by americans. For instance red kidney Beans Are known As red peas in Jamaica. Other foods indigenous to the area include bananas mangoes Citrus fruits breadfruit coconuts and Coffee. Sugar Cane Cocoa Pimento and Ginger also Are cultivated. Seafood is extremely popular. While Many recipes incorporate these items Christie said it s difficult to find cookbooks covering More traditional meals. Quot West indians Are very secretive about letting others know their recipes a she said. A i Learned most recipes from my Mother who in turn Learned from her  a West Indian who can be cajoled into revealing a dishes ingredients often wont Tell you the proper quantities she said. Quot you just have to Experiment until you a get the right flavor Quot Christie said. Jamaica s history has led to a surprising mix of foods and spices. The Island s name comes from an arawak Indian word meaning Quot Isle of  Jamaica was discovered by europeans during Christopher Columbus second voyage to the new world in 1494 and the first Spanish settlement began in 1509. A British expeditionary Force attacked the Colony in 1655, defeating the Spanish. As Jamaica flourished As a British Colony people immigrating to the Island included East indians chinese and europeans. It became a Center for the slave Trade from Africa and was a producer of rum and a amps Mundth Winder Christie dips Avocado in Salt and water to prevent it from turning Brown then adds it to a simple Caribbean salad. Sugar. The slaves were emancipated in the 1830s and Jamaica gained its Independence in 1962. The mixture of cultures confined to an area smaller than Connecticut May explain How some of the dishes evolved. For instance Curry powder is used in Many dishes. Christie said that Many jamaicans also Are quite fond of hot peppers. The following recipes incorporate Curry powder but it s up to the Cook to decide whether a dish turns out hot or mild most of the ingredients can be found in commissaries or local markets. Some of the More exotic ingredients such As ackee a fruit or vegetable depending on whom you ask can Only be found in stores specializing in West Indian foods. Native cooking Salt fish fritter 1 package salted cod fish about v2 Pound 3 cups self rising flour 1 medium onion diced 1 Small Tomato chopped 1viteaspoons ground Black Pepper 1 Teaspoon Curry powder water skin Salt fish place in pot of water and boil until soft. Cool with cold water take out any Bones and separate in a bowl. Sift flour. Add onion Tomato Black Pepper Curry and fish. Fold together adding. Water to make a thick Batter. Using a Tablespoon drop a Little of the mixture in hot Oil and Fry until Golden Brown. Sanshie Siby Dena Kleiman the new York times Chester Mahooty a 63-year-old Zuni Indian Medicine Man loves to Cook. He is a stickler about the kind of com he uses in his Poole it must be a special dried Large Kernel variety he likes his meat Cut to a certain size and would prefer to Butcher it himself. In that Way he tries to Cook much As his ancestors did generations ago on open Wood fires. But when it comes to grinding up chillies to season his Many creations Mahooty does not hesitate to reach Fon the blender a of course we use blenders Quot said Cassie Soldierwolf Mahooty a daughter in Law who grew up amid the North Arapaho indians in Wyoming. She prepares Fry bread much the Way her ancestors did. But when it s time for breakfast she often takes a piece of Fry bread from the Freezer and warms it in the microwave oven. Quot Why should t we Quot asked Soldierwolf who prepared an authentic Indian meal the other Day in new York along with her father in Law and several other members of the native american dance theater who Are performing at the Joyce theater. In kitchens in the Indian nations and also among professional chefs american Indian cooking is coming into its own. Whereas Lor years indigenous american cuisine was relegated to the shadows of the country s culinary past today it is being re examined dusted off spruced up and brought into the modern Kitchen. As Home Cooks food anthropologists and professional chefs gain a greater appreciation of the contribution american indians have made to the cuisines of the world Many Are updating Indian recipes to reflect contemporary conveniences ingredients and palates Page 14 the stars and stripes Friday october 4, 1991