European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - November 29, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Chillies Are a hot topic new Book revives lost recipes by Joan Drake the los Angeles times i did t want the recipes to be the same As those in every other Book on mexican cooking Quot said Susanna Palazuelos. Instead Many of those she provided for the new Mexico the Beautiful Cookbook Collins publishers 1991 came from her own repertoire some from other Well known mexican Cooks. The Palazuelos family has a Long history linked to food. An ancestor Narciso Bassols wrote la Coc Mera Pollana in 1895, one of Mexico s first cookbooks following in this tradition Palazuelos began collecting recipes at age 17. Today she is an Acapulco based caterer and member of the Cerculo Mexicano de arte Pulinario formed in 1981, this group of nine female cooking experts is dedicated to preserving enhancing and promoting the regional dishes of Mexico. Palazuelos has been Active in the research and collection of what she terms Quot lost recipes Quot those that failed to be passed along from generation to generation Quot it took me eight years to get the recipe for chillies in Novada chillies in Walnut sauce Quot Palazuelos said it was created by the Augustine nuns of Puebla for a visit by the emperor con Augustin de Iturbide Alca Chofnas de la Hacienda Hacienda style artichokes comes from her great great grandmother. Encalada Cesar Caesar salad is based on the original recipe developed by two italian Brothers Alex and Caesar Cardini in their Tijuana restaurant in the late 1920s. Quot what they Call Caesar salad in the states does t resemble Caesar salad anymore Quot Palazuelos said she Points with Pride to chillies Moritas Rellanos con Salsa de Nuez stuffed chillies Moritas with Walnut sauce that uses the Small dried and smoked Morita chillies not easily found outside Mexico. Chip Otle chillies May be substituted the Book s glossary explains ingredient substitutions have been noted in Many of the recipes Quot the resulting dish May not have the authentic flavor of the original but it will still retain its Basic character and be a satisfying part of a mexican meal. Just remember that these recipes were created from the plants and animals of a specific Region and so they May vary even when made in a different part of Mexico. Your substitutions Are just one More variation in the evolution of these  this was evident when Palazuelos demonstrated fresh Corn tamales in a test Kitchen. The Book save this of the recipe Quot for some reason these delicate Iresh Corn tamales of Michoacan Are never quite the same when prepared elsewhere but they still Are unique and very Good. In Mexico they would be made with fresh Field Corn which has a higher starch Content. The Best substitute is Corn that has been picked for several Days and is not too Sweet or  Palazuelos used a husked Corn that had been refrigerated several Days. She began preparation by washing the ears drying them with paper towels and removing any dried ends and silk from the tops step 1 she used a chefs knife to slice through the thick end of the ears then carefully peeled off the husks so they did t break. These wore washed dried and set aside again using a cites s knife she Cut enough kernels from the cobs to equal five cups the kernels were placed in a bowl and Palazuelos moistened Hei hands with water and stirred the com so any remaining silk stuck to hoi lingers and could be removed she placed about one cup of the Kernel at a time in a food processor a blender May also to used and processed them Only until the Kernel Weie chopped the finished texture was about the consistency of cottage cheese or cooked Oatmeal step 21 this procedure was repeated until All the nun had been processed then sugar Salt and softened butter Weie stirred in although the recipe Calls Tor milk the com used had enough liquid that Only a portion of the a cup called for needed to be added. The husks from the Corn were not As Large As those from the mexican variety so Palau Cir showed How two could be placed together she spooned about a Tablespoon of the Corn mixture near the Center of the husks step 3folded the sides Over the filling then folded in the ends a traditional Gamalero was used for cooking the tamales but any deep Steamer will do. Place water in the Bottom position the steaming rack and line it with a few Corn husks if desired. Stand the prepared tamales in the Steamer step 4being careful not to crush them cover with another layer of Corn husks place the lid of the Steamer on top As tightly As possible and bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the tamales about an hour depending on their size. When cooked the filling will appear curdled. Allow them to Cool at least 20 minutes so the filling dries and does not stick to the husks then remove from the husks before serving and Garnish the tamales with freshly prepared or bottled Salsa and Creme Fraiche or sour Cream. Although the Book claims All the recipes were tested in the United states with locally obtained ingredients they Are not flawless Palazuelos said she tried 10 to 20 recipes to get the Best one for three milk cake yet it lists baking powder in the ingredients and does not Tell when it should be added. It should be combined with the flour also ingredients in this and some of the other recipes Are not listed in the order of usage a Standard Cookbook procedure. Egg Whites in the frosting for this same cake will probably reach the 160 degrees needed to kill Salmonella when the boiling syrup is added but no indication has been made that this is a must. On the whole the recipes Are infinitely More usable than those in Italy the Beautiful the first Book in this series. In addition this is not Only a Cookbook but a Contee table Quality pictorial account of mexican cuisine. The photographs by food and travel photographer Ignacio Urquiza not Only portray the recipes but capture the essence of his Homeland a the people and diverse regions from which these foods originate fresh Corn tamales Uch Epos 8 to 10 ears Corn 1/a cup milk 2 Tablespoons sugar 1/2 Teaspoon Salt 2 Tablespoons softened butter or lard use Sharp knife to slice through thick end of Corn ears remove husks being careful not to break and set aside slice kernels off cobs to yield about 5 cups place Corn kernels in bowl moisten hands and stir kernels so any Corn silk Sticks to hands and can be removed place i cup Corn kernels in blender and process on High Speed adding milk As necessary do not process too thoroughly mixture should be consistency of cottage cheese pour mixture into bowl repeat until All Corn has been processed. Stir sugar and Salt into Corn mixture and mix Well add softened butter and Combine thoroughly place Steamer Basket in Steamer and add hot water to a Inch below Bottom of Basket t me Basket with stiffer Coin husks. Spread t pliable Corn Husk on Woik surface place 1 Tablespoon Corn mixture on Husk Roll up Husk loosely and told Point Over seam stack pie paid tamales in Steamer Basket with seams and Points lacing up. Being Caie tul not to crush cover tamales with layer of Corn husks and place lid on Steamer rung water to boil then reduce heat to Low and steam tamales 1 hour of until tilling inside Husk appears curdled allow tamales to Cool at least 20 minutes so filling dues and does not stick to husks makes 1 4 to 16 tamales to make tamales Wash and dry com remove silk and slice through the thick ends. Peel off husks avoid splitting Cut off 5 cups of kernels and chop in food processor. If husks Are Small place two together and spoon Tablespoon of com mixture onto diem. Fold Side of husks Over filling then fold in ends. Cook in Steamer for one hour. Page 14 a the stars and stripes Friday november 29. 1991 italian food with mexican flair by Barbara Hansen the los Angeles times a a i n South America. Jose Carlos Zorridia a d recently i Quot cooking was not regarded As acceptable work for a  so i  peruvian born. Texas educated of i went to work in m Mexico City he led a double life he had a full time career in the financial Field and he catered on the Side when Zorridia moved to the United states he continued the same pattern. Then a few months ago. Lie decided to open a restaurant in Torrance Calif the menu is italian because that is More accepted in the american culture Quot he said. But Zorria has filled his new restaurant. Pas Taccini with his Art collection which includes pre columbian textiles and masks from Oaxaca. And for the next few months. Zorridia will add mexican specialities to his menu. But these Are mexican foods with a difference Zorridia does not Cook traditional dishes but rather his own interpretation of the cuisine. In his dishes the Strong flavors of mexican condiments become muted Zorridia might dilute mole paste with Chicken Stock or Combine Cilantro dark mexican Beer and Cream in a Light sauce for fettuccine. Cornish game hens flecked with Padilla Chili paste Are presented on an ornate sauce that incorporates chillies walnuts cheese and bread hell flavor Avocado soup with Orange zest and tequila or add a touch of Chili to pumpkin soup. And Zorrilla s idea of a cheese Empanada is to wrap Oaxaca cheese and a Azote in puff pastry. Even his desserts Are different. Instead of serving a straightforward dish of Csongos Zamorano a milk curds in syrup a hell process the curds with Cream for a crepe filling. Or hell tuck pears under a custard like mixture of cajeta a soft mexican Caramel beaten eggs and Cognac and finish the dish with a Sprinkle of walnuts. Quot i love to create new dishes using mexican flavors a he said. Fettuccine Al Cilantro 2 cups Cilantro leaves Yacup Chicken Stock 3 Tablespoons butter 4 shallots minced v2 cup dark mexican Beer is Teaspoon ground cumin Salt freshly ground Pepper 1 cup whipping Cream 1 Pound cooked fresh fettuccine Combine Cilantro and Chicken Stock in food processor or blender and Puree. Heat butter in Saucepan add shallots and saute lightly. Add beet boil mixture until reduced to about 3 Tablespoons add Cilantro mixture and cumin season to taste with Salt and Pepper reduce again and add Cream simmer 3-4 minutes then pour sauce Over pasta makes 6-8 Servings Codor Nices in Salsa de Nuez y Chili Padilla game hens in nut and Chili Padilla sauce 4 or 5 dried Padilla chillies 1 cup water 1a cup soft butter 4 game hens Salt Pepper 8 slices White bread crusts removed 1 cup milk 2 Tablespoons Olive of 1 onion finely diced 1 Tablespoon crushed garlic2 cups Chicken Stock v2 cup minced walnuts v2 cup grated Parmesan cheese 4 kalamatas olives 2 hard cooked eggs sliced boil chillies in water until tender dram remove stems and seeds from chillies and Puree in blender their will be about12 cup Chili paste Brush each game Lien Witti 1 Tablespoon butter and about 1 Tablespoon Chili paste. Season to taste with Salt and Pepper bake at 350 degrees until Golden town about 30 minutes. Soak bread in milk then Mash with Fork to Puree heat Olive Oil 111 heavy Saucepan add onion and garlic and saute slowly until very Biown but not burned add remaining Chili paste and Cook 1 minute. Add bread mixture and Cook 15 minutes adding Chicken Stock gradually to obtain heavy sauce consistency. Incorporate walnuts and cheese spoon sauce onto each plate and place game Hen on top Garnish with olives and or fed cooked egg slices. Makes 4 Servings Peras a la cajeta pears with cajeta 2 16-ounce cans pears in heavy syrup 2 cups cajeta 4 eggs a cup Cognac 1 cup finely diced walnuts Drain pears reserving % cup syrup place pears in buttered baking dish mix cajeta with Pear syrup egg Yolks and Cognac. Beat egg Whites to Stilt peaks and carefully fold into cajeta mixture pour mixture Over pears and spi ankle with walnuts bake at 350 degrees about 15 minutes. Makes 8 Servings easy enchiladas by Donna Deane the los Angeles times Many people love mexican food but it is easy to become deterred by the amount of time it takes to make sauces and chop ingredients this recipe for cheese enchiladas is different. Quick and economical it uses a microwave oven and prepared ingredients. Along with mexican Rice and sliced avocados it makes a great summer meal that won t heat up the Kitchen because the Rice takes longest to Cook Start it before preparing the enchiladas if you Are on a really tight schedule use a mexican Nee mix instead of making the Rice from scratch simply heat the canned enchilada sauce then dip each Tortilla into the sauce to coat both sides fill with cheese a Quarter of the Long Green Chili and chopped Green onions and Roll up place them in a baking dish. If you have any leftover meat such As Chicken or beef shred or chop it and add to the filling pour Over the remaining sauce and top with cheese pop to m the microwave about 10 minutes and the enchiladas Are ready to serve seme sour Cream to spoon Over enchiladas and chopped Cilantro to Sprinkle on top Mango Flowers make a Quick dessert Cut a slice off each Side of Mango cutting As close As possible to the seed. Score the Fleshy part of each Mango half Lengthwise then crosswise to form Small squares. Push the skin up to form the Flower. Serve with Lime wedges cheese enchiladas Ranchero 1 Tablespoon Oil 2 cloves garlic 1 Small onion 1 cup Rice 1 1-Pound 3-ounce can enchilada sauce 1 dozen Corn tortillas 1 7-ounce can whole Green chilis 3 cups shredded Jack cheese 1 Bunch Green onions 1v2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese 1 Small Tomato 1 141/2-ounce can Clear Chicken Broth 1 Bunch Cilantro sour Cream a a enchilada Saric it m me. Bim , until hot meanwhile mince 3 men Uin touch 2 conned whole Green chilis length Wise Sci a to enchilada en1 Jolt a from in at i g. 8 Corn tortillas 1 at time in sauce to coat lightly on both sides Sprinkle about to cup Jack cheese Down Cense of each Tortilla add about 2 Teaspoons Green onions then top with one 1 piece Green Chili Roll up repeat until All ingredients Are used arrange tortillas in 13-by-9-Mch baking dish pour remaining enchilada sauce Over Spenkle with 1 a cups shredded Cheddar cheese microwave on High 100 percent Power about 10 minutes or until heated through just before serving chop a cup Cilantro leaves stir a cup Cilantro into Rice serve enchiladas with Rice sour Cream and Garnish with remaining Cilantro Here is a recipe for the Rice mince 2 cloves garlic and 1 Small onion chop 1 Small Tomato heat 1 Tablespoon Oil in 3 quart Saucepan add garlic and onion and saute until tender add t cup Nee and saute until it begins to or own acid Tomato and saute quickly stir in 1 can dear Chicken Broth heal to boiling then cover and simmer about 20 minutes until Rice is tender and Broth is absorbed the stars and stripes a Page 15