European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - December 19, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The Quot Witch s Eye Quot a the remains of a Hilltop Castle a looks Down on thann and its Cathedral. Touring the Vosges Cathedral and a witches Eye watch Over by Norm Zeigler travel outdoor writer with its immaculate streets and Many stolid Hall timbered and Stone buildings thann looks More German than French. Originally an Alemanni an ancient German tribe settlement thann got its name from Tanne the German word for the fir Trees that fill the surrounding forests. Thann stands like a Sentinel astride the Middle reaches of the thur River. It is a Small town fewer than 8,000 inhabitants Mere strip of buildings whose red tile roots fill the thur s narrow Valley. The City is squeezed in among Green Foothills just a few Miles downhill from the grand Ballon the highest Point in the Vosges it is also at the Southern end of the alsatian wine Road which makes it an Ideal place to Start or end a tour1 of the famous grape growing Region. There Are two landmarks that by themselves make thann a worthwhile Stopover. One is the Engelbourg the Castle ruin on the Heights above the City. The other is the collegiate Church of St. Thiebault the splendid gothic Cathedral that dominates the downtown area. Throughout the City  is an Ever present sight looming Over the Valley like an ancient Emblem chiselled out of the Hilltop. Today its shattered Walls Are a Bleak reminder of bygone wars but for More than 4 a centuries it provided Protection and economic Benefit for the town it surveyed. When it was built in the Early 1 3th Century the Engelbourg spurred the town s transformation from a modest Riverside Community to an important commercial and governmental Center. With its commanding position High atop a Bluff it gave its owner Frederick ii of Ferrette effective control of the Valley below. A toll was exacted of All Trade passing up or Down the thur. The Engelbourg remained an important strategic and economic Factor for thann until the turmoil and devastation of the thirty years War made it irrelevant. A thann Lew decades later in ib73 a Louis the in ordered the Castle razed and the onetime magnificent resident e and defensive bulwark was reduced to a pile of rubble. One Small portion that remained intae t was a slice of the main Tower that came to rest on its Side atop the blurt like a giant wheel. These Days this 10-loot Quot Witch s Eye Quot is a favorite photo subject arid kids climbing place. Viewed from the Engelbourg the towering collegiate Church with its airy Tili greed Steeple and red and Green tile roof dominates the cityscape even More than from Street level. According to tourist office director Dominique Fiegel the people of thann have a saying about their Cathedral Quot Freiburg a is bigger Strasbourg s is More famous. But thann s is the most  on a continent where splendid Hurt lies seem As common As burgers at Mcdonald a thann s is a standout. Inside and out this magnificent Sandstone edifice built in the 14th and i 5th centuries Dazzles the Eye and mind of the beholder. Visually the Interior is dominated Liy the three immense stained Glass windows to feet High in the Nave and the intricate carved Oak choir stalls. The most Eye catching feature of the Church s exterior is the deceptively delicate looking 254-tool spirt. Though it is Only a Little More than half As tall As the Strasbourg Tower it seems at least As overpowering. This is partly because the City and the number of its buildings arc much smaller Strasbourg has 190,000 residents. But while the spire is the most impressive feature the most carefully studied portion of the Cathedral is the main Portal. Its incredible array of Relief carvings a More than 450 figures a is a sculptural re creation of much of the1 new testament. Because it is compact and has Little to attic congestion thann is a perfect City for walking. Especially attractive Are the sections along the River and around the Cathedral. Other landmarks Worth seeing Are the storks Tower and the witches Tower. The thur River runs through thann and forms a Quot a Quot around the old town. At right St George slays a dragon outside the collegiate Church. The Church s main Portal above includes More than 450 sculptures. Travel Erst tips Ihmann is located in Southern Abac e at the Southeastern Edge of the Vosges re Gion. It is about 25 Miles South of Colmar and 20 Miles West of the Rhine River. Coming from Germany it is most easily reached via autobahn a-5 and a la. From a-3b take local Highway no it in irl West let it i Hann. The Engelbourg and its Quot with h s Eye Quot arc a 20-Minule hike irom the Cathedral. There Are two routes both starting on the left Hank of the River at the foot of the Bluff. One is a Steep narrow Trail straight up the wooded Hillside. It should Only lie used by physic ally lit people wearing Good hiking hoots. The other route follows a paved Road around the it Urve of the Hill Lor several Hundred Yards before turning into a gentle Trail that angles up to the c Astle. There Are a number of Good reasonably pric eel Tor i pm it i restaurants. Iryle Regent at 1 38 Rue it la Lere Armee it has pizza Elishis and lunch h spec Las for around 35 francs about fib. 101. Spaghetti with meal  e lusts 4b  s. Visitors May want to browse thann s t Lothes boutiques and other store s but avid shoppers will be disappointed at the limited number and variety. For More information about thann e  i Jollu e de Louisme de Hannet environs Bureau d acc Eil h la it e Jotter t -08800 i Hann France Telephone 89379820 or 89 1704 58. I it wrist Nettie e he Sid i it Imi que i Iegel Speaks fluent English. Norm Zeigler a hiker and his dog Survey thann from a spot on the nearby misty Hills. A amps photos by Jim Derheim 12 stripes Magazine december 19, 199/ dec Ember 19, / 99/ stripes Magazine 13