European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - January 16, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Six zebras stare at intruders on the Serengeti Plain. By Joanie Zigmond the Toyota land Cruiser wobbled and rocked through the Lale afternoon heat As Sio s eyes scanned the vast landscape. Suddenly he pointed to a tree at the Edge of the Plain and said  Sio a native kenyan guide slowly drove the four tourists nearer to the Thicket revealing dozens of Baboons frolicking in the Trees. It was the first animal sighting of the safari. Moments later and Only 200 Yards away the jeep was engulfed by a Herd of zebras. We watched eagerly and took pictures from our open roof Vantage Point. It was a scene to be repeated Many times during the three Day safari in Kenya s Masai Mara National Reserve on the Northern Serengeti Plain. The safari was part of a we Klong trip arranged through a Swiss travel Agency called african safari club. It included round trip flight from Frankfurt Germany to the coastal City of Mombasa a flight to a base Camp and a seat in a three jeep caravan that travelled deep into the 590-Square-mile Reserve. Our jeep wandered farther out across the Plain pushing deeper into a land so boundless that visitors can become disoriented losing All sense of direction. Suddenly a thunderous crack broke the silence. A tree tumbled to the ground a victim of a Herd of about 20 foraging elephants. The elephants a part of Africa s big five which also includes Lions leopards rhinoceroses and Buffalo a devoured the leaves ignoring the intruders. As we drove closer for a better look the Herd walked in a Circle shielding the Young. With Day fading to dusk animals became harder to spot. But As the jeep crept around a Bend in a dense Thicket Sio pointed to a rare sight less than 15 feet away. A cheetah and three cubs Lay relaxed at the base of a Barren tree. Sio Cut the engine and the animals continued to play undisturbed. The cubs taunted their Mother and tumbled off her Long sleek body into her outstretched paws. Sio laughed As the Mother toyed with her Young. His eyes were fixed on the cheetahs and i realized we were truly in another world one in which Sio has great Pride. The next Day we started out at noon and soon were greeted by Zebra and wildebeest herds dodging the vehicles in a scene reminiscent of television s wild kingdom. A wildebeest seems part of and part Buffalo. Every year in september 1.4 million wildebeest Migrate South to the Serengeti Plain in Tanzania and return to the Mara Reserve in july. Nevertheless during our october safari there were still lots around. Sio stopper the jeep along the High Banks of the Mara River for a picnic lunch. He allowed his passengers out with a warning to stay close reminding us that we were still Quot in the  it was t Long however before an adventurous tourist came running Back from the Bush with a rhythmic Zzz Mosafa r 1a trip into the wild pounding following him. It was the sound of Hippopotamus is on the move and brought to mind the Camp Host s warning about hippos. He said they were Quot. The number one cause of human deaths in the Bush. Quot because they run with a haphazard clumsiness that cannot always be escaped by the careless tourist. But the threat passed and after the excitement died Down we watched from our picnic spot As 20 hippos bathed in the murky River Waters below. Throughout the trip we occasionally spotted red cloaked Masai natives herding their cattle. Sio said the cattle Are their prize possessions and a key to their Way of life. Quot the Masai can live in the Reserve but not in the Parks Quot he said. The National Parks in Kenya Are under direct government jurisdiction Sio said. National Parks differ from reserves he said in that Quot no cattle or people Are allowed to live there Quot and Quot no one is allowed to walk a Only jeeps Are permitted Quot As our trip progressed i realized i had become More aware of my surroundings the constant Breeze the changes in landscape from Thicket to Forest the Rocky pastures seasonal swamps and the Golden grass of the Savanna. And As the Sun began to drop a feeling of serenity enveloped me and i Felt touched and overwhelmed by the Plain s vast Beauty. Notably missing from our wildlife sightings were the rhinoceroses. Sio said that they Are an endangered species in Kenya because poachers kill them for their hides and horns. Quot the rangers Are taking care of them and they Don t allow us to go near them because they say we Are disturbing  he said. But we did see Many other animals giraffes impalas Thomson s Gazelles Topi waterbuck Buffalo and on the last Day a group of Lions feeding on a wildebeest. Not everyone will see All these animals and some will see different ones. I clearly recall Sio s response when asked if the animals tend to stay in the same areas. Quot this is not a zoo. Animals go where they must go Quot he said indignantly. A camera in t a necessity to capture the Beauty of the Mara Reserve although binoculars Are recommended. Our eyes As Sio s had done have turned the safari experience into images that will remain forever in our minds. Joanie Zigmont is a free Lance writer living in Nurnberg Germany a Masai woman watches a Small of Herd of  to get there trips with the african safari club Are available year round and can be booked through scheduled airlines travel offices overseas or private agencies. The trip includes accommodations meals and safaris from 1 i Days to four Days Long and ranges in Price from about $1,835 to $2,075. Sato also offers Tours through euro Tours and Egypt Reise service. Euro Tours has two eight Day packages and an 11 Day package. They include flights from Frankfurt Germany and Range in Price from about $1,930 to about $2,850. Ers has two nine Day packages including round trip flights from Frankfurt that Cost around $1,870. Sato offices in Britain and Italy do not Book packages to Kenya but can help make connections with trips leaving from Germany or through private tour operators. A the stars and stripes 8 stripes Magazine january 16, 1992