European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - February 27, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Revellers and camera toting observers Mill about St Mark s Square in anticipation of a party breaking out. 8&s of resetting gives Venice Carnevale a special flair by Norm Zeigler travel outdoor writer there is no place in the world like Venice. And there is no pre lenten Celebration quite like the introspective and anachronistic Carnevale in the City of canals and crumbling palazzi. Like All of Europe s carnival celebrations Venice s traces its roots Back centuries. But unlike most it does not have a continuous tradition. For More than a Century and a half it was first suppressed and then largely a forgotten. A Little Over a decade ago it began to re emerge. The first attempts were spontaneous and tentative a handful of people parading about in costume. But it soon grew to a citywide festival. As befits a City that once ruled most of the Eastern Mediterranean and called itself la Sereni Sima the most Serene Venice s fete stresses its flair for self dramatization. Throughout the final Days before Lent elegantly costumed celebrants primp and pose beside the canals at St. Mark s Cathedral and in front of pricey cafes and restaurants. In their dazzling velvets and Silks they evoke the Commedia Del arte the highly stylized 16th-Century dramatic comedies. White wigged Renaissance aristocrats stroll the streets along with Stock characters such As harlequin Pantaloon and the plague doctor. It All harks Back to a time when Venice was a powerful City state with one of the world s great navies. But the costumes Are not limited to traditional outfits. The masked figures wandering the streets and squares May Range from cartoon characters and superheroes to kids in animal suits. Overall the emphasis is on style and Beauty. The frightful paganism masks of the teutonic countries Are As alien As lederhosen. One of the keys to the Carnevale is its Lack of formal Structure. This is in keeping with the venetian character. The residents have been Independent and Strong willed since the original founders left the Mainland to carve the City out of marshes and swamps. In recent years they have staunchly resisted efforts to commercialize and institutionalize their Celebration. Several years ago the City government organized and promoted a full calender of official events for the Carnevale including a televised costume contest in St. Mark s Square. But after a largely negative response from residents who considered it meddling in their private party the Effort was dropped. The following year the Celebration reverted to an informal Street festival. The main Venice festivities take place in the final week and a half before Mattedi Crasso fat tuesday. Though the Carnevale spills Over into other areas of the City its focal Point is St. Mark s Square. On the saturday night before Lent the Square fills with thousands of people becoming an Arena for a huge happening that is part ersatz theater part disco party and part open air stage for poseurs. It continues into the wee hours of sunday morning. The mood of the party ranges from Young people sharing a bottle of wine to Middle aged couples sipping Coffee in nearby cafes. It would be a dazzling Eclectic party anywhere. With the mystery and Romance of Venice it becomes unforgettable. According to officials at the City tourist office Carnevale 1992 will continue the informal traditions of past years. Quot we Don t have a precise program at the moment one official said. Quot we know there will be a lot of music and in the Square there will be a  she said a printed schedule of events should be ready in time for the Start of Carnevale. This year s Celebration started feb. 20 and continues through March 3. Among the musical performances will be classical evenings in the la Fenice opera House but Quot most of the carnival will be on the outside Quot said Caesare Battisti the tourist office s head of promotions. Battisti said carnival in Venice is a mood a state of mind More than an event. Quot it is not really something that passes by. It is something you take part  for More information Contact tourist Board of Venice san Marco 4089, Ascenscion 71c, 30124 Venice Italy Telephone 041-5265721. If calling from outside the country be sure to add the country code. 8 stripes Magazine february 27, 1992