European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - May 13, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Travel Europe 1992 a amps Ron Jensen a Park Bench becomes a Safe Haven at siesta time on a Spring Day in Madrid. A amps Ron Jensen much of the Spanish Countryside resembles the american West. Arrival in Barcelona Spain about 9 . The next Day. There will be no eur Alpass holders on it. It is off limits to such special tickets. To reach Spain Brooke Tuescher and her Mother Linda had to opt for the 10 . Train out of Geneva that stops at the Spanish Border sometime before Dawn. Brooke 20, has lived for six months in Paris. Quot life education Quot she explains. Her Mother is visiting from Racine wis., and the two have been eur ailing for about two weeks. Quot i got to Paris with six years of French and i realized it did t mean a Damn thing Quot says the daughter who by now is Able to Converse easily with the conductor who tells her All passengers must change trains at the Border town of port Bou. At 5 25 . It is still dark when the train arrives. The Spanish train to Barcelona leaves 35 minutes later. There is no first class Section on this train and during the 3 i hour ride it fills to standing room Only. At the 22 stops it picks up what appear to be mostly commuters. Brooke and Linda sleep propped against each other while the Dawn fights its Way through a Gray fog. There is no dining car for Coffee or juice. The train reaches Barcelona at 9 30 ., 30 minutes after the hotel train bargain Hunters and vendors match wits in Madrid s Flea Market. S&9 Ron Jansons amps Michael Abrams suitcase in Tow a traveler Heads for her train. From Geneva that does not accept eur ail. The train to Madrid leaves Barcelona at 11 . It is the opposite of the Early morning train. The seats Are Roomy and lunch is served to passengers at their seats. It is expensive a $18 for a Small Steak and vegetables and drink plus cheese and fruit a but Good. Video screens show american movies. Earphones allow a passenger to hear the dubbed Spanish dialogue. For those not listening to the movie piped in music fills the car string versions of such songs As strangers in the night and brother love s travelling salvation show making Tom Selleck in Spanish seem inviting. For a while after leaving Barcelona the Mediterranean surf batters the Shore on he left where empty beaches await the crowds of summer. On the right Hilltop churches and centuries old Villas bask in the Spanish Sun. It is an eight hour ride to Madrid from Barcelona. By late afternoon Clouds Block the Sun and rain Falls. At Guadalajara near Madrid a Rainbow pours from the sky onto the Green landscape. The tourist office at the Madrid station does not make hotel reservations but a special office for the purpose is not far away. The Cost of making a reservation is about $2, but a Down payment of 1,000 pesetas about $10 is also required to secure the room. It is later deducted from the Bill. A hard rain is hammering Madrid As the taxi pulls away from the station for what is supposed to be a 10-minute ride to the hotel. But when the Driver looks at the address on the paper he mutters something about Quot Mucho traffic Quot and shakes his head. The rain and the Rush hour traffic turn the ride to the City Center into a 50-minute Stop and go ride costing 30,000 pesetas. An attempt to end quickly a 21 hour Day of travel has added $30 and nearly one hour to the Day. The metro not Only cheaper would have been quicker. Peter Besas has lived in Madrid since 1965. He is Bureau chief for variety the show business newspaper. He knows How to spend a Day or two in Madrid. Quot the typical sunday is you get up late of course and go to the Flea Market Quot says Besas. Next is a lunch of Paella a spiced Rice dish cooked with Chicken shrimp or some other meat. Then Besas says a True Madrilejo will go to the bullfight. Besas has been Here 27 years so who can argue. The sunday Flea Market which begins at 10 ., is just South of the Plaza mayor. It crowds one main Street and spreads like tentacles up nearly every tangential artery. On this sunny morning the crowd makes walking a chore but the fare a everything from scarves and belts and to shirts to puppets and ceramics and antique guns a is an Eye full. Be wary. Pickpockets consider this a weekly Kmart Blue Light special. There is no time for lunch so Paella will have to wait. The bullfight begins at 6 . Gates open one hour earlier. Tickets can be bought saturday or sunday morning at any of the several ticket locations around Madrid. The season is Young however and the Cool temperatures keep the crowd Small so tickets Are available at the Plaza Des Las Ventas the largest bullring in spam with a capacity of 23,000. The bullfight is a great tourist attraction. Continued on Page 6 May 13, 1992 travel Europe 5