European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - May 13, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Travel Europe 1992 on the rails the bullfight is one of the enduring passions of Madrilejos. It continued from Page 5 among the american voices heard at the souvenir stands outside the ring is that of Carol Fedrizzi a Junior at Syracuse University who is studying for one semester in Madrid. Quot there is so much in such a Small place a she says of Madrid. Quot you can walk anywhere. Quot it s a different life. They get up late. They eat later. They stay up later. We eat dinner at 10 o clock at  the origin of bullfighting is unknown although some spectacles involving bulls  men were around in Crete  Rome prior to the Christian Era. The moors brought it to Spain when they occupied the Peninsula from the 8th to the 15th centuries. Bullfighting or Torso As it is practice today began in 1 725 when Francisco Romero invented the Muleta the cloth draped on a stick used to attract the Bull. Despite its tradition  its importance to the spaniards a Heartfelt shouts of Quot Ole greeted skillful moves a the remaining image of the Day is that of the afternoon Sun glistening in the blood that poured from the bulls shoulders. One american on Holiday from his studies in Hamburg Germany says after the first of six bulls has been killed Quot i think i m going to go away irom Here very  there Are three Days remaining on the eur Alpass. The temptation is to go to Lisbon but it is not possible to make the return in the two Days that will be left on the pass. According to the schedule that comes with the pass a train leaves Madrid at 7 , for henday on the French Border. From there it is easy to make the the ancient French town of Bordeaux by late afternoon about 5 . At the train station however the clerk indicates that the train leaves Madrid one hour later than advertised. Is it still possible to make the connection to Bordeaux the clerk shrugged  said with some trouble Quot i Don t  the train leaving at 8 , is boarded with some trepidation. Will it be possible to leave Hendele quickly if not what is the hotel situation there sometimes eur ail passes  a bit of Guesswork to travel. Much of the terrain Between Madrid  the Northwest Border with France resembles the american West the shallow soil barely covers the Rocky substructure. Small scraggly shrubs  sparse patches of grass Are nearly All that grow Here. Ancient Stone fences seem to Corral nothing but More shrubs. There Are no sheep. No cattle or horses. There Are no ranch buildings. Madrid a metropolitan area of More than 4 million people is barely one hour behind  the train has lost touch of any current civilization. This train too is comfortable  clean. Meals again Are served to passengers in their seats. In the bar car a grilled Ham  cheese Sandwich costs 400 pesetas about $4. About noon a Herd of cattle is spotted grazing on grass that is Green thick  in abundance. A ranch comes into View a House  several outbuildings. And More cattle. The tracks have climbed since leaving Madrid but the landscape is now settling Down rolling gently like the covers of a poorly made bed. Ahead Are mountains the cant Abrian is it chm Abrams on the sleek new High Speed trains Riding the rails is a relaxing pleasure. Cordillera which run East  West along the Northern coast  connect with the pyrenees on the French Border. The track which scratches this lonesome country like a scar on the Cheek of a Newborn baby will never pass through the highest mountains. It finds a break Between the two ranges  rattles into Hendele at mid afternoon. At 5 30 ., a Tiv train pulls out of henday headed for Bordeaux. Tiv must stand for train of great velocity it is Europe s fastest train capable of speeds up to 186 Miles per hour. On this leg however it does t approach that Speed. Too Many stops. Not enough new track. It is a train of wide clean cars  helpful conductors most of whom speak English. Three centuries before Christ a celtic tribe forded the Garonne River  settled on its left Bank. Within two centuries the roman Empire As was its wont was Here designing streets  platting a major City that became known As Little Rome. Much of that was destroyed however when barbarians poured in uninvited in the year 276 . Still Bordeaux is a town Worth walking which is How the tourist office recommends a one Day visitor spend that Day. A map of the old City is free  with some care can take a visitor past wonderful architecture. One of the highlights is the hotel Laub Ademont built in 1608. When King Louis Xiii married Anne of Austria in Bordeaux the Queen Mother stayed in this mansion. 6 travel Europe May 13, 1992