European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - November 27, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                A a a a a a a a a a a a a its French. No its German. S no  food of the Alsace is delightful blend bae Karoffa the traditional alsatian casserole of pork Lamb and beef is not Complete without a healthy dose of alsatian Beer. By Steve scholar staff writer when in i my Aluce Region of northeastern France them s Moie to in sampled than the wonderful villager and Countryside i Here s also the food  cuisine has in Ike been touted Tor its unique i m. Of styles in Large measure. That s bemused this if Roe Vest of the Rhine River has passed from f Rench to a Eri Mii and Tsick to f Rench control through sit Ioir. S. Ira i tie Alsace a i Rench. But then it s pm a Man ten  featured in this regional dec in bin to k me Ani in i i  1 i i the Kuikit it be to venture in the aka. A the Epe a now adventurous connoisseurs to take n my -. I ution Vel Hoat leaving tie comforto the r Kitchen Hoch that arguably stand it the of u font of it in food is Banc Naolta it s a a sore e that defies s i a a. Akon i tie , a a a ids a available in Banc Karoffa v2 Pound pork shoulder 1 ? Pound Boneless Lamb shoulder 1 Pound lean Chuck 1 cup White wine  Teaspoon thyme vib Teaspoon Salt a a Teaspoon Pepper dime sized Bay Leaf 1 Tablespoon chopped Parsley 1 Tablespoon butter 4 Large onions sliced 4 Large potatoes sliced Cut Moats to two Inch squares acid place m a to quart bowl. Pour Over with tie wine and seasonings and lot marinate overnight. Grease a Large casserole with tie butter and make a layer of onions and potatoes on the Bottom then a layer of combined meats. Repeats until the casserole is filled add the marinade cover dish and place in a preheated 10 minutes 350 degree oven for at Hast pm 00 Rev note. Solves four to six people for dinner those whose tastes run to some Ang a i d Tun pm should try alsatian sauerkraut and sausage a d so a a <1 dec defy germanic accent alsatian sauerkraut and sausages 1 Pound sauerkraut canned or homemade 1 Tablespoon butter 1 Large onion sliced 2 Ham Knuckles 1 Pound smoked shoulder of Ham v4 Pound Bacon in one piece 3 links White sausage 4 Knock Wurst 2 blood sausages i cup Light beef Stock 1 cup White wine 4 whole Juniper berries Pinch of Pepper 3 cloves crushed garlic if canned place sauerkraut m a cof Wodei am to running water Wash Cut the Salt dram and set a us place butter m an Ovenproof casserole Hen a. I Over neet me add omens and Brown Guc yrs be casserole from treat and add tie meats and Bacon pm to 2 Inch pieces acid Stock wine jumper Hemes sauerkraut Pepper and crushed garlic. Place Back on very Low heat cover and simmer for one hour checking meats for tenderness serve m the same dish and have boiled Small White potatoes on the Side serves four to six persons for dinner no alsatian meal would be Complete without dessert to Choice of Many of the locals is que Scho Plum pie Quetsch Plum pie pastry 1 i cups All purpose flour cup butter a cup shortening 1/e Teaspoon Salt v2 cup cold water 1 Tablespoon butter for greasing plate place ingredients m medium site bowl adding water met shape into a Ball and place on floured working area roil out to fit a 10-Inch greased pie plate filling3 pounds purple plums i cup granulated sugar my Teaspoon cinnamon 1 Tablespoon instant tapioca  and pit plums and place skin Side Down in rows of top of the pastry Sunkle with tie sugar and i Mimon then tapioca preheat 10 minutes oven to a a too degrees and bake pie for 40 minutes till crust is go Iden and plums Are cooked Cool and serve with one cup heavy whipped Cream in the s e Somes six to eight a salad featuring gruyere cheese and egg 5t a chef in Strasbourg prepares another serving of sauerkraut and sausages. A amps photos by John Bohmer a special wine from a special Region by Frank Prial the new York times u was and tie human vets have Boon evoked with who in Alsace for hundreds of years but Ca Uva five has their reputation Tut tie big t a urn own dumb most ins son. Olivier. And nos Ami relatives celebrated the opening of a then i ii pan Romamo did Umbrecht. In bae Karoffa is baked slowly in a Clay pot. In the far 1 about 5ptm new a tie town or Iti pm Eimm s the my Den name of Leonard s we Jeannette and Foi generations the picture Book villages on the Eastern slope of the Vosges mountains in Northeast i Ranee have been Home to both families until tins new venture. Zed i Umbrecht was based in wet Vonheim a wine Village two Miles from Turckheim. Which is some 35 Miles South of Strasbourg France for All practical purposes the company outgrew its winery there a decade ago in the Early 1960s, Leonard Ftp Brecht drove his vanes around France in a truck seeking buyers now importers from around the world plead each year for an extra Case or two sometimes six bottles of Zed Umbrecht wines the Zind turn Brecht business is quite Small even Lor Alsace i Here Are 74 wineries and cooperatives that produce More Iho family owns less than 120 acres of Vine. One tiling that sets Zed Humbrecht apart is that every drop of wine it makes comes irom its own vineyards most wineries in Alsace depend heavily on purchased grapes equally important is the Quality of the vineyards that Zed Umbrecht owns to determined Early that we wanted Only the Fie is Olivier sen i in a Glass Case in the tasting room at tie new winery Are samples of soils irom various ind Mur brei it Vineyard some Are red. Some while some pebbly some heavy with Clay 1 to dumb matits seek land in diff Mil locutions to produce widely different wines when the germans ruled Alsace from 18/1 to the end of world War i they planted cheap grapes Whoso wines would not inconvenience tie princes and Barons who owned vineyards along the Rhino and Mosel Rivers when the alsatian got their land Back they began ripping out tie cheaper wines mostly Chasse Las and began putting Back the Noble varieties nesting Gower Tram nor Muscat plot Blanc and plot gris which they called Tokay they retained the German system of naming wines by grape variety they also kept tie antiquated German Stylo labels and jaw breaking names to this Day Many casual vane drinkers seeing alsatian wine1in a shop just assume they Are German Alsace makes extraordinary late Harvest in Quot Quot and Many a tie Best come from ind Umbrecht the Are vanes of immense concentration Richness and sweetness 1 Hose vanes Are a ays in Short Supply and expensive rut there k a higher Range known As tie Oloc Tion do  or sign these Are the alsatian equivalents of Germany s err  Ltd o wines and the finest sauternes made from grapes picked one by one Long a Fer the regular Harvest these vanes Are so Rich and can so used to at they Are Norma / sold Oey in half bottles there Are those who believe that some my Umbrecht w nes can Fie too Teg and too powerful in a some of the Zed Humbrecht dry vanes supposedly table a Nesha a alcohol Levels of 14 or 15 percent Leonard and Olivier Humbrecht do not agree that their vanes Are too pow oui they Are b g,1 Zwior said but they Are perfectly balanced it s tie Way they Are supposed to be Page 14 a the stars and stripes Friday novels 27. 1992 the stars and stripes a Page 15