European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - December 10, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                City on the Niles amps photos by Ken George the Alabaster mosque by Craig Martin staff writer Cairo is known for centuries old mosques that Dot the landscape. But arguably one of the most popular places of worship in this desert City is the Mehemet Ali mosque or Alabaster mosque in the Citadel in the City s Southeastern corridor. Mehemet Ali born in Cavalias Greece of albanian origin was a famous Soldier who governed Egypt from 1805 to 1847. His dynasty which lasted for 148 years ended in 1953 when Egypt became a Republic. The turkish style mosque built in his Honor in 1830, is in two parts the courtyard and the mosque. The court measures about 170 feet by 176 feet and is surrounded by four corridors lined with Marble columns and surmounted by Little domes. In the Center of the court is a Fountain for ablutions where muslims Wash before saying their prayers which take place five times a Day. The clock Tower on the Western Side of the Fountain is made of perforated Copper. The Mehemet Ali mosque at Sunset above and the Interior right. The clock was a present from King Louis Philippe of France to Mehemet Ali in 1845. The Square mosque features a Large Central dome and two cylindrical minarets about 260 feet High. It is supported by four Square pillars and surrounded by four Semi domes. Great quantities of Alabaster adorn the Walls thus giving it its nickname. The pulpit and the Dikka a dais for the Imam or prayer Leader Are made of White Marble. The vaulted galleries Are covered with Alabaster and Gold decorations. A Large number of Pendant Glass and Crystal lamps form circles of lighting inside the mosque. The three tiered Tomb of Mehemet Ali is at the right Side of the Entrance door of his mosque and is made of White Marble decorated with carved Floral motifs and covered with painted and gilded inscriptions. The hotel Call him that too. You can count on Good conversation from Abdul. Hire him As your Driver and hell act As your guide. Hell also serve As your protector keeping you from getting ripped off by the hucksters at the tourist traps in this City of 16 million people. His Brown eyes Dart Back and Forth Between the Windshield and Side windows constantly scanning the Roadway watching traffic. His Day begins at 8 or 8 30 . Where he hangs out at the Ramses Hilton hustling tourists to get their business. Taxi Drivers Don t make much in Cairo. Some months he makes about $350. Others he draws in $70. Quot i have to Hustle business Quot Abdu said with a smile. Quot my income changes. Sometimes it s a Little sometimes it s a  on a Good month he pulls in $80, after expenses he said. Quot we pay a lot for insurance Quot Abdul explained. Quot but when we have accidents nobody  Abdul was Quick to Point out that he has had Only two accidents. Quot and they weren t my fault Quot he joked. That s quite a feat since the traffic in Cairo is bumper to bumper from 7 . Until Well after Midnight. Red lights Don t mean Stop in Cairo and Drivers turn a Normal three Lane Road into five. The Gray hair is thinning on the 51 year old Abdul. Years in the desert Sun have taken their toll on his complexion. And although being a taxi Driver of 18 years in one of the most popular tourist cities in the world does t sound appealing to most people it s a Good Job. Quot it s a pretty Good life Quot he said. Quot it s better than working for the  Abdul use to w Ork for the egyptian government but he got fed up with that and moved to London 20 years ago and decided to work at an arabic food restaurant.  s where he Learned English so Well Quot it was a More honest Job Quot Abdul said with a laugh. But his love is Cairo and after 12 years he returned to continue driving a taxi something he did before he worked for the government. He can set his own hours. Some Days he works four hours a Day others he puts in a 10-hour shift. The Job May seem monotonous to some but every Day is different for Abdul. Quot the customer makes it different. Some Are Good some Are bad Quot he stressed. Quot it s How they  and As you drive through the Dusty Muddy streets of Cairo people recognize Abdul. They la give him a Friendly beep on the Horn and a wave and smile. And hell give you a Friendly wave and a smile because after spending a Day with him you know you la have a Friend forever. December 10, 1992 stripes Magazine 13