European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - February 18, 1993, Darmstadt, Hesse                                A m the though the cafe Central near the Homburg Palace is one of Vienna s most elegant coffeehouses casual dress is the Rule for most of the clientele. Where viennese meet to drink Coffee read newspapers enjoy the Good life the name describes its location. By Norm Zeigler travel outdoor writer nearly every morning around 10 o clock you can find Walter Strasser at a table in his favorite cafe Reading the Day s papers sipping Coffee and just relaxing. As it is for Many viennese the visit to his Stam Mcafe is an important part of Strasser s daily ritual. For the 57 year old waiter who works in a downtown restaurant the interlude before work is the Best Way to Start his Day. Strasser is Clear about his reasons for going to the cafe the  the Reading materials. And i need my Coffee every Day. Three or four  Vienna s cafes Are one of the City s most enduring social institutions. They Are variously Reading rooms meeting places for friends and havens from Urban stress. For the viennese a cafe is an Extension of the living room says Evelyn Miksch of the City tourist office. You go into a cafe either to read the paper in peace or to meet friends possibly to play chess or cards. The cafe tradition in Vienna goes Back some three centuries to the time of the turkish sieges. The common explanation for their origin perhaps apocryphal is that turkish troops left Coffee Beans behind during one of their retreats. The Beans were recovered by Austria troops who soon discovered the wonders of the Savory brew that could be made with them and coffeehouses sprang up As places to enjoy the new beverage. Though the general concept is fairly consistent a cozy place to relax Over a hot cup of Coffee each viennese cafe has its own distinctive atmosphere. Style furnishings and clientele vary widely. One of the most elegant is the cafe Central on the Corner of Herre Gasse and Strauch Gasse. With its parquet floors gleaming Marble and arcaded ceilings it could be an Annex for the nearby Homburg Palace. The Central attracts a variegated clientele tending toward the Well heeled. American tourists in jeans and ski sweaters mingle with society ladies in fur Coats and fashionably casual members of the local literary scene. Depending on the time of Clay and the crowd mix you will see people chatting flirting Reading and writing earnestly in dog eared notebooks. On a recent afternoon an All female quartet in Panama hats played Strauss Era chamber music. It was a setting that naked Back to the Imperial age. But not All of Vienna s cafes look like sets for lifestyles of the Rich and famous. Though the Coffee is just As Good As at the Central the cafe Hawelka at Doroth Fergasse 6, has a very different flavor. This downtown landmark just a couple of blocks from the Cathedral presents a Funky almost seedy atmosphere. There Are no Marble columns Here. The dominant decor is Brown panelling marred by Graffiti and peeling veneer. Old posters yellowing and faded overlap each other on the Walls. In the most popular Corners the panelling is smudged with Oil stains from decades of leaning Heads. And time literally stands still on the old built in Wall clock that stopped who knows what year at 9 00. The Hawelka is a Young people s cafe full of laughter and debate animated conversation and unfortunately like Many spots in Europe cigarette smoke. Fur Coats Are As scarce Here As Steak in a vegetarian restaurant. In Vienna Coffee is not just Coffee. There Are so Many kinds that it can be bewildering to the uninitiated just ordering Kaffee will usually get you a Brauner Brown Onea medium strength Coffee with milk. A few others Are Dunkel Strong dark Coffee with milk espresso Schwarzer Black Coffee Kaffee ver Kehrt literally backward Coffee with a lot of milk and Little Coffee Kaffee Ohne Kaffee decaffeinated Coffee. Coffee in Vienna is served on a Silver tray with a Glass of water. Strasser says this is because the Coffee is a Little bitter and sips of water help to Clear the palate. Americans will be pleased to discover that this is not the usual heavily carbonated Mineral water served throughout much of Europe but rather sparkling Clear tap water. Vienna s Public water Supply is among the purest and Best tasting on the continent. Many viennese cafes have had their share of famous patrons. During his years in exile Vladimir Lenin was a regular at the Central. Sigmund Freud preferred the cafe land Mann at or. Karl Lueger ring 4. In the 60s and 70s Vienna s cafes went through some hard times. Business dropped off dramatically and some even had to close. There was a time when they thought the cafe scene would die out Miksch says. But during the last decade and a half they have enjoyed a renewed Boom. Today these congenial havens seem to be As secure As Ever in their position in the life of the City. February 18, 1993