European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - November 04, 1993, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Continued from Page 7 precious film by snapping photos while he struck herculean poses amid doric ruins. Driving on we reached a Trai  Rio taking a but it was still stunning on a morning in june. We roamed around All morning before heading Down to the Plaka a shopping District which includes restaurants  tree shaded cafes within its confines. Several Days of swimming followed. Fred left for Crete to catch another hop Back. I stayed taking a afternoon trip Down to Cape so Union famous for its sunsets  a Temple honouring Poseidon before signing up for a three Day two night cruise which Cost $595. Not cheap but still a bargain. The liner was scheduled to Stop at some famous islands including a site Way Over in Turkey Kusa Dasi formerly ancient Ephesus. Sailing East toward the Cyclades islands we passed Delos where statues of Lions still glower at the Sun  Santorini whose Stark White buildings Glisten against volcanic ruins  the Blue Aegean before making a port Call at my Konos. The Island is your typical easy going tropical Paradise popular with tourists since the 1950s. For a former Sailor with the Navy life aboard a pleasure cruise was a revelation. Swimming pools were jammed  Cool drinks never swayed beyond Arm s reach. Nightly shows highlighted Creek music  dances. Snacks were always lined up on tables  we sat at assigned tables for dinners meeting new people. I ate with a greek couple  their Engineer son. They spoke excellent English  told me much about their country. It always impressed greeks too if you had read about Hellas  asked probing questions. The couple were celebrating " their wedding anniversary which coincided with the birth of their son 20 Odd years ago. The second Day out we stopped at Rhodes which retains a giant medieval fortress Miles of sparkling beaches  a shopping District overflowing with worthwhile souvenirs. In the afternoon we sailed toward Patmos. Sea Spray covered us while swimming in the ship s Pool. Time out of the water was Well spent listening to Debbie a travel agent from new York City. She compared this cruise to ones she had taken in the Caribbean noting that while other ships had Superior facilities our ship the Arcadia certainly touched Sites which were More Beautiful  More interesting. At Patmos we took a bus to the top of the Hill which offered panoramic views of the Harbor  islands in the distance. We visited the Cave of the apocalypse where St. John is thought to have dictated the revelations to a disciple in . 95, despite some modern accoutrements the Cave was Dank  dark. One imagines that revelations came readily there. We pulled into Kusa Dasi Turkey the site of ancient Ephesus the next morning. Ephesus was a cultural  trading Center in the ancient world founded by colonists from Athens about 1,000 years before the birth of Christ. Indeed most of the coast of what is now contemporary Turkey was colonized by the greeks during their classical age. Native ephesians believed amazonian Queen Ephesia founded their City. Their Temple to Artemis was one of the largest in the world  considered one of the wonders of the world. At one time or another the City housed Many giants of greek philosophy ranking second in importance in this regard Only to Miletus which is about 20 Miles South. Heraclitus the thinker who gave the world logos or a Universal principle of life was an Ephesian. The City holds significance for christians Tod. St. John  St. Paul preached there  the apostle John was buried there. Ruins of note include the Temple of Artemis he gymnasium of Medius which includes the theater gymnasium grand theater Gate of Hadrian the Church of St. John  Church of the blessed Virgin. The grand theater is the largest  most spectacular of the ruins. We spent the morning at Ephesus before shopping for a couple of hours in modern Kusa Dasi. We could have used More Timex because the ruins proved both extensive  spectacular. In the afternoon we sailed away. After dinner fellow travellers  i got Down to 60s music in the ship s lounge. We celebrated a great cruise. The Only thing lacking was More time. Docking at Piraeus he next morning i said goodbye to everybody. Hearts were heavy. A after buying a ticket to Crete i spend the Day walking around Athens. I sailed that night  arrived in Iraklion the next morning. After checking into the air Force lodgings the next two Days were spent uneventfully but happily lying in the Sun. Catching a hop Back i was detoured spending a night in Aviano Italy before touching Down at Ramstein a. Travellers can get in the swim by visiting Hellas. The weather in autumn is Ideal for touring  cruises run until november. Treasures await them. 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