European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - November 25, 1993, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Ski e u r o p e French some resorts May be Short on Charm but compensate with total efficiency great cuisine by Phynis s. Johnson French ski resorts will blow your mind if it s your first time there. As a matter of fact the skiing is so great that perhaps the French would like to keep it All for themselves. Nobody could blame them. Words like Quot ski total Quot Quot thousand Kilometres of runs Quot Quot Valley skiing Quot and Many other descriptive phrases come to mind when discussing skiing in France. And while they sound utopian they Are just describing the everyday reality in the French Alps. Forget driving your car to various lifts or taking the shuttle bus As is often the Case at Alpine resorts just go into the heated ski room of your station de ski put your boots and boards on scoot across the mat and out the door and onto the slope. From there you can decide which of the Many available lifts you want to take and where you want to Start skiing. The greatest difference Between French skiing and that in other Alpine countries is simplicity. Almost Al the ski resorts in the French Alps by the Way 60 percent of the Alps Are in France started on a drawing Board and grew from carefully designed blueprints they were not haphazardly added to cozy Little Mountain villages after downhill skiing became a Strong tourist attraction in the mid-1930s. These French resorts Are designed stations de ski carved omit High up in the mountains. Most of them Are above 5,600 feet and Many have their apartment and hotel sections at 6,500 feet or higher. The Sites Are above the Timberline and was above the sparsely populated areas of Mountain and mining villages along the High River valleys. Experts designed not Only the resorts lifts slopes and runs but also the roads leading up to them. France started its facilities Long after Alpine skiing became popular and built on the know How and experience of those who went before. They used the knowledge Well and continue  so. The newer a resort is the More efficient the planning appears to be. You might say that the whole thing is cold and without the Charm of an austrian Cerman or Swiss Village a and you d be right. But at Many of the mass feeding stations at the summits in Germany Austria and Italy the Quot Charm Quot gives Way to efficiency and extreme ugliness. French food is outstanding and the service at most stations excellent. The chalets to chose from Are varied and Many. The French did not make the mistake of building enormous eating areas but kept the places Small. When one is too crowded you ski to the next one. You will find wonderful food in and near resorts even in the smallest chalets where a Mere chair lift ride takes you Back to a big ski circus web and your lodgings. And Here s another plus at French resorts a the lifts. There Are no Clumsy and often dangerous to bars. Individual plate lifts they even go around Corners safely double and triple chairlifts and four or six person gondolas plus Swift Cable cars return you to the summits. At the top the initial ski offs Are Safe and terraced the mountains near Glacier Grande Motte make a Nice backdrop for skiers. S4s no Pieiga a skier races Down the Mountain in Meribel France. Wherever necessary gently leading skiers to a chosen Trail. At Many top stations you can fasten your skis inside before skiing through plastic doors to Start your descent a a real plus on a Windy Day. Apartments Are a Way of life at French ski resorts. Hotels Are cozy and offer wonderful food but the prices Are quite High. The thing to do is to rent a housekeeping apartment. The kitchens Are fully equipped and a change of sheets and towels can be arranged by the week or every three Days or you can Supply your own. Every resort has a shopping Center in a sort of mall where hairdressers sport shops ski rentals souvenir shops masseurs ski schools and Cri Peries and bars Are also located. This Mecca of activity can often be reached without leaving the Protection of the buildings but it is always very close by. Considering the Lack of nearby Competition the prices Are extremely reasonable. A liter bottle of French Rose or red table wine for example costs around 52.50. A Wise thing to do at French resorts is to prepare your own breakfast you can also have a fresh croissant and a Coffee in the mall before taking a lift then eat lunch on the slopes ome lets salads and Small steaks Are unbelievably Good. Plan 510 for a cheese Melet and a Glass of wine meat dishes Are More expensive. After returning from skiing enjoy a leisurely hot Bath and a pre dinner toddy while your meal is getting ready in the oven. Bigger apartments usually Are equipped with dishwashers so cleanup is easy and leaves plenty of time for a late Coffee at a cafe a visit to your favorite bar or a trip to one of the discos to meet friends. Nightlife in most French resorts in t the greatest but it s up to you and your friends to make it memorable. Drinks including Beer at discos and bars Are expensive. And while bottled wine is very reasonable at resort markets liquor is not so liquor drinkers should bring their own. Then they can do As Many other skiers do and arrange to meet friends Quot at Home Quot in your apartment or theirs. One More piece of advice if you Reserve a housekeeping apartment in France and want to do a bit of cooking bring along your favorite seasonings spices soft drinks chips dips and whatever else you think you in t live without fresh meat however will be confiscated at the Border if found. Customs officials seem to be much More lenient with liquor. Good Luck and great Snow for a completely new ski feeling aowmterj5 Iff Stripe Maghame ii