European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - January 20, 1994, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Slovakia by Theresa Bujnoch her thick fingers made Strong by farming and dark by soil rubbed into the skin carefully unfolded a Crisp White Square clot the edges were embroidered with Orange and red yarn. In the Center was an intricate yellow Star pattern. The woman pointed to herself and made a motion against the cloth to indicate she had done the work by hand. _ finally the reason for her bringing a stranger a foreigner to sit at her Kitchen table became Clear. She had something to sell. Her husband must have seen me coming with my camera and zoom Lens and . Plates. I had come to Cicman for the same reason others before me ventured out of their Way to this isolated one Street Village i wanted a look at the outsides of the houses. The crude dark Wood cottages show off a traditional form of painting not seen in any other slovak Region. Rows of simple designs in White a snowflakes stars crisscrossed and Birds a smother the clipboards baseboards and overhangs on the Homes creating a personal signature of the Dweller within. As i set up my tripod to shoot a window Frame Petr Herco approached. Smiling and nodding he ushered me Over to his House where his wife Bozna shyly posed after smoothing Down her hair. That s when they took me inside and i bought the embroidered cloth. Herco and his wife spoke no English and Only a Little German a language that sometimes comes in Handy in Northwestern Slovakia so we communicated without words. Herco filled an empty Jelly Jar with Tea from a pan on the stove and held it to my face. Quot trinket Quot he said. Then he hit his Chest inhaled and i think flexed his Muscles. This must have indicated drinking to longevity because then he held up eight fingers pointed to himself and did a min Jig. Bozna Herco then returned with photos of two boys i assumed were her offspring and a photo of her husband wearing a traditional costume she had also made by. Hand. A a. A a a a Quot a a. A a a a she then poured herself some Tea from my Glass and offered a Toast. After a kiss on the forehead and the Cheek from Herco i was convinced this was More than a sales pitch to unload More embroidery. Aglow with the warmth of humanity i asked for their names and addresses so i could Send a note of thanks to my new friends. Bozna Herco returned again with a postcard. Attached to it was a photo of herself holding a cloth very similar to the one i had just bought. The card was sent by a woman in Renton Wash obviously one of Many satisfied customers. After i left the Herco Home i ran across another polite Man in the Street who coincidentally had some cloth to sell. A a a a. In. Undoubtedly capitalism has found its Way to tiny Cicman a place without to antennae and where chickens roam Loose in the Muddy Road. But it s capitalism served with genuine kindness stitched by hand. A practicalities Cicman pronounced Chich Mun eee is located 38.kilometers 23miles South of Zilina. The Village offers a museum a bar and a cheap hotel the Kastiel closed in november. There Are More accommodations in the pretty wooded spa town of Rai Jecke Trellice just to the South of Zilina. Both places offer a convenient base for hiking in the Southern Mala Fatra mountains. For a amps Theresa Bujnoch a amps Ken George Bozna Herco top photo and her hand embroidered  hikers skiers Slovakia s mountains offer a wide Range of opportunities for hikers and skiers. While in the Tara mountains travellers must abide by the sometimes strict regulations of Tanap the Tara National Park 0969/967951. Tanap s Mountain Rescue service is located in stary Smo Kovec and you can hire Mountain guides there. Next door is the slovak Agency for tourism or Satur which was formerly known As Cedon. It Sells maps and will Book. Accommodations for a Small fee 092/63362. A couple of Mountain guides that Are roughly translated into English and available in Slovakia Are everyman s guide to the Patras 1993/1994 and the guide by nature the Tara National Park. Hikers should be aware that Many of the More challenging trails Are open Only Between july 1 and oct. 31. The summer months Are also the Rai Niest. For skiers the busiest month is february. Slovak tour agents admit the Rocky terrain of the High Patras does t make for Ideal advanced downhill skiing conditions but Alpine and Cross country skiing is widely available. The locals say the Low Patras Are actually better for advanced skiers. Activity in the Low Patras comes under the regulations for Narodny National Park Nike Tatry 0849/916 78 or 916 95. The slovak tour travel Agency near Jasna offers assistance in English at 42 849 23414. Remember to use your country s Correct International Access code. A Theresa Bujnoch for a amps Theresa Bujnoch the dark Wood cottages in Cicman display a traditional form of painting not seen in any other slovak Region. 10 stripes Magazine january 20, 1994