European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - January 27, 1994, Darmstadt, Hesse                                An outdoor Market draws a crowd above left. A pole nearly ars while making a Telephone Call left. The old Homes of former clergymen surround the Cathedral above. Is photos by Ron Jensen it seemed a Good Day to be a tourist indoors. In wroclaw the Best place for that is the Rac Lawicka Panorama a Large museum housing a giant painting done in 1894 depicting a Battle Between polish insurgents and russian troops in 1794. The painting nearly 400 feet Long and 50 feet High is a great attraction for polish schoolchildren and i shared a showing with about 25 of them listening through earphones to an  of the painting s history. The artwork contains literally thousands of characters and took a team of artists nine months to Complete. While it May not be great Art it is wonderful history. I wandered across the Odra River on a Bridge called most Pokou toward Cathedral Island and the City s wond Erful old Cathedral. St. John the Baptist s Cathedral squats tightly among old houses and narrow streets. Three centuries of work beginning in the 13th Century were necessary to Complete this huge edifice and repairs have been done constantly since first to rebuild from fires and More recently from the bombing the City endured during world War ii. After my eyes had adjusted to the darkness inside i Henry Miszak czech Republic Slovakia Austria Hungary noticed several worshippers in the main Nave and at several of the Small Side chapels. This is a certainty in polish churches. They Are always in use. In Germany or France one humps Only into other tourists gazing upward at the architecture. In Poland one always finds visitors in prayerful head Bent repose. From the front door of the Cathedral Cathedral Street Rolls As it has since the Middle Ages past other chapels and former Homes of Bishops. At its end lies the Tumski Bridge made of Iron in 1889 and guarded by Sandstone sculptures of John the Baptist and St. Hedwig of to Zebnick this Region s patroness. A 15-minute stroll takes me across the Bridge and to the marketplace. The fog has lifted and although the Sun is still hidden the Day has brightened some. Standing in the old marketplace near the wonderful town Hall built com 1328 to 1510 i consult a map while considering my next move. That s when i met Henry. Henry Miszak approached wearing a Long Woollen. Coat a Scarf was wrapped tightly around his neck and a Flat Woollen Cap covered most of  Gray hair. You need help he asked in German. I told him i was a tourist wondering where to go and he suggested the University. Come i will show you on the walk i discovered that Henry spoke English which improved greatly our conversation. He Learned it after the War he said while living for a year in England. His unit the 2nd polish corps had been attached to the British army. As we walked he told me that much of wroclaw was destroyed by shells and bombs Early in 1945, during a siege made by the red army. Many of the citizens were evacuated he said. I read later that 170,000 civilians died during the siege and evacuation. A photograph of the University building after the War hangs on a stairway Wall Henry pointed out the bomb damage on the 200-year-old building and then noted the Small red Cross Emblem at the roof s Apex. It was probably As Large As a bedsheets but Henry noted from the air it is a handkerchief inside Henry guided me to the Leopoldine half where academic and state ceremonies Are held. It is overwhelming in its baroque Ness. Numerous sculptures. Illusion Stic paintings in the vaults the ceiling is Low and the room is dark but the Beauty is apparent. Henry showed off the room like it was his own and then motioned that we had to leave. Over Coffee in a cafe Back at the marketplace he told me More about Hir Melf. He is 68 and a retired Carpenter living on a pension that equals about $100 a month. I asked about the Economy and he said it is one big  in 1990, he worked for 50,000 zlotys per month. Now a Carpenter will earn 5 or Ellioh zlotys in one month. When you have in your hand 100,000, this is nothing. This is $4. In America $4 is one pack of  he pulled from a Small Coin purse two 10-zloty coins and Slid them toward me indicating that they were mine to keep. Coins Are no longer used in general Commerce maybe 10 years ago i work for this Money one whole Day. Now this is a souvenir at my urging he talked about his return to Poland from England after the War. Many thought he was crazy he said. When he returned he found that the russians were imprisoning Many of his fellow veterans for the crime of continued on Page 6 january 27, 1994 stripes Magazine