European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 20, 1994, Darmstadt, Hesse                                If. Spain continued from Page 5 combines the traditional delicacies of the Basque country with some typical dishes from Navarre such As pork ribs blood sausages kidney Beans and cabbage. And along this same Street two other restaurants Casa Lucip and Viejo Madrid also offer a varied menu in warm surroundings the dinner Bill for two is around $80. Since i was on the Cava Baja i could not resist stopping for a Sherry in a tiny andalusian bar called la Solea in a room beyond the bar there is always someone playing and singing flamenco to homesick andalusian. This is not the foot stamping skirt swirling kind of flamenco of tourist shows but the solemn Cante Hondo of broken hearts. Later i went to Casa Patas at 10 Calle Canizares where for the $5 Price of a drink i heard a More professional flamenco show also with Only a guitarist and a Singer. Frequent cries of Ole from the mainly Spanish audience assured me this was the real thing. Out of curiosity i revisited the 18th-Century Palacio Gaviria at 9 Calle Arenal because a year ago it was offering live or recorded classical music in its comfortable first floor reception rooms. But the Public it seems wanted so Nething More exciting i found a huge crowd dancing to latin music in the unlikely surroundings of a ballroom decorated with frescoes including one showing Columbus informing Queen Isabella of his discovery of the americas. In another room there was disco music and in yet another soft Rock. But the place is so Large that there was still room to Chat without having to shout. Charging $7 admission which includes the Cost of a drink the Palacio draws people of All Ages. As the night advances there is the Choice of slowing Down the bar Las Descal Zas in the Plaza de Las Descal Zas Reales has quiet music and soft armchairs or speeding up Al Morocco at 7 Calle Marques de Legates is a disco that draws the hot names of Madrid s movie and fashion world. Students seem to favor the smoke filled tavernas tucked into the basements of the Plaza mayor along Calle de cd chillers where student minstrels known As Tunas perform. For the All night crowd though there is Alle Huertas empty and scruffy by Day but almost impossible to walk Down at 2 . Because of the crowds going in and out of dozens of bars and clubs. Some like popular and the. Otono club have live music others like 47, Combine bars and discos none looked empty. Watching the Bustle i had to remind myself that the Spanish Economy is said to be in a deep recession. One result has been a Sharp devaluation of the peseta which has made Spain a much cheaper place for foreign visitors yet nothing seems to dissuade Madrile Nothom going out and it struck me again How groups of Young women seem to feel Safe wandering Between bars and nightclubs Well after Midnight. Yet that is Why the place is so different. Mecl Silerio have Learned to people their City to make it theirs like actors occupying a stage1. And it is quite a performance. The Nice thing is that the audience is Welcome to join in. Is file flamenco dancing is thought to be the creation of andalusian gypsies above. Shuttered windows Are framed by wrought Iron railed promenades left. Is file stripes october 20, 1994