European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 01, 1977, Darmstadt, Hesse Page 20 the stars and stripes modern living is sidewalk Snake charmer with musical aide. The Nasbah the Labyrinthine old Section of Tangier is a Maze of shops Homes. Is with us haggling Over the Price in a Tangier metalware shop. By Barbara Fulenwider staff writer ome with me to the Nasbah. A 2vfe-hour ferry ride takes you from spa into Morocco. Despite its proximity and past ties Tangier is a different culture Only tinged by Europe. From Algeciras Gibraltar looms into View with its fore and aft Bald spots and houses As the ferry backs out of Algeciras maritime station with its cargo of Passen Gers cars and trucks. The boat glides past Gibraltar and snuggles up to the Spanish coast for almost an hour of the ride before Ven Turing across the Strait of Gibraltar. A one Way ticket for the 2 /2-hour crossing costs 400 pesetas about $4.75 in first class tourist a and 300 pesetas for a second class ticket tourist b. A hydrofoil makes the crossing in about an hour. The pitching of the ferry eases As it enters the Crescent shaped Bay of Tangier. A White washed City perched on the Hillside Tangier ascends to the Citadel above theremins of the sultans Palace. Clearing customs is far easier than herds of tour guides who pounce on every tourist bickering for your dollars with offers for guided Tours and promises of hotel rooms. Hotels and restaurants and bars face the sea an speckle the Palm lined Avenue de Spagne that rings the Bay. With tour guide firmly entrenched and a hotel room rented it s destination guide generally a Young Man who claims rela Tives in various parts of the states strolls along in his Long Wool striped caftan answering questions about the City volunteering some of his background and inquiring about climb to the Nasbah begins through alleys of Brick and tile past tiny shops gorged with people and products. Sounds of English French Spanish German and arabic swirl about dark Grimy cafes where men Only gather to smoke and drink mint you reach the Gran Socco a mass of cabs pedestrians dogs bicycles. Many enter the Nasbah there through an archway in the old Palace Walls. The Nasbah the old Section of Tangier is a labyrinth. Veiled old women dropped in Black plod about children fight run scream play Sun dark ened male faces devoid of expression Survey the lambs in tourist clothing. Perhaps the guide is Worth the Money after All. Cooking doors lace the humid air. Ten or so old men huddle about the Community oven As bread from neigh Boring families rises in it. Mosques Are sprinkled about the Hill. Small stores with bins of fruit or vegetables spices or shoes or caftan Are wedged into tiny areas throughout the Maze. The larger stores that Beckon tourists Are piled with rugs caftan Copper and brass leather pottery rocks from the Sahara and water gourds. After much haggling and agreeing on a Price the proprietor will probably mention that he gladly accepts credit cards. If bargain ing in t your bag shop in stores on Boulevard Pasteur where the merchandise carries Price tags. At the Pinnacle is the Palace of the sultans Darel Makhen now a museum of moroccan handicrafts and archaeological finds from the surrounding was the Royal and administrative Quarter years ago and was walled off from the rest of the Quarter. The Walls still exist but Many passages have been Cut through them. After a walk through the free museum head for the Clift Walls for a panoramic View of the Beach and sea. On the Way Back Down through the Medina they la most Likely be an old Snake charmer who la do his thing with a deranged cobra for a dirham or two. But Don t look for Charles Boyer. That was in Algiers
