European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - January 9, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Spanish troglodytes prove the natives Are Friendly Story and photos by Tony Nauroth staff writer Barrio do Santiago in the own of , Spain 50 Miles East of Granada is one of the world s weird Sites. Troglodytes live Here. They re not strange Cash out of a . Tolkien novel bul their Homes could have inspired his description o Middle Earth where hobbits live. Troja Loyte is of Creek origin meaning Dweller of caves. The term is often used in a derogatory sense to describe a subhuman who closes hims of off from the world. The folks of Guadix Are definitely human and openly warm. They prefer their Gypsy Toots to any comparison with hobbies. As Bettl cos gypsies living in the stale of Andalusia where Mosi Spanish gypsies live they maintain a Rich heritage that includes a virtual monopoly on flamenco dancing. It s a trait thai shows up Early it Beltico childhood when girls raise their dresses in flamenco poses when a camera Points their Way. Looking Over the Cavelos one can Sec White Chimney pots that pop up out of the ground and great whitewashed splotches Mark doors and flamenco poses on a. I hop in Guadix. Windows on the eroded Hillocks where residents have dug their Homes out of the soft red Tufa volcanic Rock. Some of the Homes Are free standing but Are not entirely free of the Earth. Their foundations seem 10 melt into the ground. The effect is startling and dynamic. An Active imagination can envision them growing feet and lumping across the Iron red Butts that glow in the distance Sunset. Parents Tell their children to go play on the roof which is easily done in a town built underground. Swing sets Are perched next to the chimneys and there Are a lot of children to use them. As the kids run up and Down the Walls and across the rooftops a thin Silken layer of Ash puffs up around their feet like Pigpen in the peanuts comics. In some places it s As much As a foot deep. Even the grownups acquire a permanent puffball lapping at their legs As they visit their neighbors caves. Bietico faces Wear a certain pall like a mask that makes them look not just Ruddy but red. It s weakest at the hairline then increases in density As you look Down to the feet. It is As if they too Are sinking into the Earth. The area is agricultural and there is More to see than the Cave dwellers most of whom earn a living As Street vendors in Long Low outdoor shops that line the approaches to Guadix. The children chatter and Cluster about the stranger with a camera like crows around Corn. They form pincers with their fingers and Peck at his shirt to get his attention. And they talk As one but with Many voices  and energetic cacophony. All they ask for arc pictures. But they won t stand still Long enough for the shutter to Wink. The flamenco in their blood makes the girls raise their dresses As the boys strike Brave poses More masculine than their years to Complete the dance. If you re Ever in Granada take a Sid trip to Guadix but be gentle. For Cave dwellers the Bettios Are a warm Friendly group. And Don t worry about the language. Even if you knew Spanish it would in difficult to get a word in edgewise. Take nothing bul pictures leave nothing but footprints in the dust of Middle Earth. January 9,1sk stripes Magazine 11