European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - February 6, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse Review be jockey in Paris is a Safe bet for a Safe meal by sgt ret Clement Lounder one of the problems with All this getting Back to your roots business is that there Are a lot of very Fine restaurant in the world that you can no longer get a table at because they Are full of people trying to eat what their ancestors ate when they were running around in the old country wearing Floral Sci tvs and hitch pm up pants and big old rough boots that was always in need of a serious scraping. If you get my Drift. It was this exact problem that reared its head on jumbo Perry and me the other week when we were in Paris trying to get fed at Dominique a one of the Best places in the City of the big Arch that i know of for getting authentic russian Chow like it used to be made before the bolsheviks took Over and ran up that Grain deficit but we Only got about As far As the Little lunch counter in the front before this thick faced Guy in a Tuxedo that would have fit jumbo told us that the Back dining room was c est Plein which i think is French for hit the luckily though jumbo and me wandered around the Corner and stumbled right into be jockey restaurant a used Lookin Little place on the Boulevard do Montparnasse where the waiter squeezed us in next to a couple of ancient Type women in half furs who were doing serious damage to a bottle of Bede re Brut while checking out the menu. Jumbo and me liked be jockey right off because it looks like maybe it was a Chi Chi spot Back in the late 1950s but that then the Glamour folks moved on and they Haven t bothered to redecorate. So we re talking classic High backed red naugahyde Booths and lots of brass rails and that red cloth wallpaper that has your Fleur de Lis and other French variety designs on it. Standing up in this Little raised bar area is the be jockey Boss lady a still Good looking blonde who mixes drinks and generally keeps an Eye on everybody. I thought she seemed a Little Cool at first but after i ordered up my second Glass of Champagne she started sending regular smiles my Way and even had the waiter bring Over a Little bowl of olives which jumbo ate the majority of. For eats i started off with an Avocado salad which i figured would be half an Avocado stuffed with shrimp but which turned out to be very tender Little strips of Avocado mixed with Kiwi fruits and then the works lathered Over with a very Fine sauce that was sort of extra tangy thousand Island dressing. Damn Good. Being his usual imaginative Type sen. Jumbo ordered up a mixed salad with French dressing. For main courses jumbo got a slab of beef what else cooked As Long As he could get the chef to Cook it which considering the French was t All that Long because the chefs Down there leave blood in the meat even if you ask for it Blen cult or Well done. Jumbo always says Bruit which Means Burnt but that s mostly to show off his not too shabby French which he insisted on learning after once accidentally ordering up a braised Conger eel during a visit to Nice. But i am wandering Here. Jumbo also got some Little new potatoes on the Side and he seemed real Happy about the whole thing even though he could have gotten the same meal at the no club without scooting All the Way Down to louvre land. I ordered up some roast Lamb and it came just right cooked rare and seasoned very simply with a Little garlic some Salt and Pepper and a few crumbles of Fried Parsley and i got to say i was Happy to run into another chef who does t really doll up his Lamb dishes with Jelly and other things that Are just not in any Way required. I give the dish about an 8.5 on the International 1 to 10 scale proof that Fine dining does not have to be All tarted up. One Good thing about dining out with jumbo is that he will always be eating red meat and so there is never any confusion about what color wine to order. We split a 1979 chateau Pote Sac a Middle of the Road Bordeaux that Cost $11. Also jumbo and me could not pass up the Creme Caramel and after that we kicked Back with some Little coffees and some armagnac and i swapped smiles with the Boss lady while jumbo tried to remember the French word for toothpick. And you know them two ladies in the fur stoles were still sipping Roederer and still had not ordered their food. Funny Bunch them French. Jumbo and me worked out our rating while heading to the hotel on the metro. Good service very decent Chow and of prices although like i said the decor is a Little Down in the Mouth. Dinner for two not counting wine will run about $45. Be jockey also serves As a Tea Salon and cocktail lounge if you Don t want to eat and the restaurant part serves some very fresh seafood including those big two Decker Oyster and crab and shrimp jobs. The place is located at 127 Boulevard do Montparnasse. Call 320-6302 for reservations. Me and jumbo give be jockey three pointy fingers. Ratings 0 b b b u awesome eats. We re talking Paradise on a plate Here. H b h be very Ine dining. Crack service and memorable food and drink. B be b solid Chow. Good food of atmosphere and pleasant service. B h decent. About equal to a Ponderosa Steak House. B path butt. Crummy Chow so so service Semi ratty Interior. Readers write Back to sgt. Clement Lound ersome of you folks who Are Reading the Chow line on a regular Type basis Are sending in a serious amount of mail giving old Clem hints on food and feeding and wining and dining and just generally pointing out where he might find some of that famous Cheek tightening Chow. Which is Fine except i got to say right Here that there is absolutely no possible i can eat at All them places you folks suggest even if Joleen and very Vern and me split up to catch them All and even if we could do it i have a idea that we would All end up about the same size As jumbo Perry if you catch what i am saying and i think you do. So starting right Here is the Brand new feedback Section which is going to include some mail and some suggestions on Fine dining from you the Chow line Reader. When you feed get Bac to us about it. Get it Here is a couple of recent letters which have been what newspaper types Call edited or boiled Down for space reasons. Dear fellow food Lover i am taking to Uberty of writing to you to suggest my great discovery i restaurants in Germany. Koa the chinese restaurant at the Community club at the . Army air Field Mainz Fin then. The place is spotless the chair really. Comfortable an the food just Between my wife and myself we have sampled a dozen of their offerings and each has been consistently delicious. For my Money 11 the Best eating in the area. Antonio Rosu Neustadt thanks for the letter Tony and for sending along the menu. The Chow looks pretty main and i notice the place is open every Day of the week and holidays and they got take out and. Home delivery. Are we talking full service eatery or what if anybody wants to Check it out you can give them a ring at 06131-477707 or just drop in. Hello sgt. Lounder Here Are few More places for you to Sample. La Taverne do Sergent recruit eur 41 Rue St. Louif enl Lle in Paris hard by notre Dame a fixed Price place which has a unique menu. Atmosphere pretty much Middle Ages. Table has a urge Basket of fruit and raw Veggie on h. After that you get a Basket of sausages then a main course you choose from about seven Ite Msall the wine Yon want plus a cheese and a dessert. Call 033-7542 for reservation. Stan Lwirt Gasthaus going Austria urge Guesthouse which has its own Slaughter House. Beautiful setting and the windows on one Wall allow you to View the Bam Interior and their cows. Amalfo a Nocker Gasse bad Tolz Germany great italian place. Smells great. Great menu. Good food. Pm prices. Nice looking Ion Phipps Mannheim lady. Best italian i be Ever had. Which italian was Best the food or the lady seriously though Many thanks for the tips and Joleen and me Are definitely going to Check out this recruiting sergeant joint next time we visit the City of the not always Seine. Dear Clem i have three comments to add to the general Drift about your Snail article. One it s True that the French will eat almost anything the chinese will eat anything but some of those disgusting meats at least to City folks make mighty Good eats. They Call them pates. Second you failed to mention snails in the catalan style with a spiced Tomato based sauce. Son you Are missing out As to Why snails come in Viz dozen and dozen lots that s easy. Snails Are not on the metric system. A fan right you Are Eagle Eye i did skip mention of snails catalan but mostly because they Are nowhere near As popular As the other varieties that you Are Likely to be receiving if you order up some snails and also because the French will usually lop your catalan sauce on chunks of meat and Only occasionally on Garden critters such As snails. Not to argue but i was pretty sure that the catalan sauce was your Basic Brown sauce or Demi Glace that is Only Flavoured with a Little Tomato. Care to come Back on that finally i got nothing against Pate. It s stewed cow brains i Don t hanker to. Feb Ait a Sec feel Magazine 17
