European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - February 7, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Bernadine Morris new York times for fashion designers on seventh Avenue the fall collection has the longest Lead time of the year. Spring clothes Are introduced in november after which designers frequently take Long Holiday vacations to rest and get the creative juices flowing. They arrive Back in their studios in january with almost four months to develop the fall styles that will be presented at the end of april and the first of May. This allows time to Ponder the Overall direction in which fashion is flowing As Well As to determine the designer s part in the development. Even Oscar de la Renta one of the few designers in the top Price bracket who does a separate summer line is immersed in fall planning. The die is already cast he said speaking of the shape of clothes for the fall season. We be bought All our fabrics so we know the colors the weight and the texture of the fabrics determine the  the designer tanned and relaxed from a two week stay in his native dominican Republic believes the trend to understated clothes will develop strength in the months ahead. The clothes of the 80s Are feminine clothes but it is femininity with ease not exaggeration he said. Softness is the key. Slender dresses will be less cinched not clinging to the body. In the Spring almost All my suits were shown with sweaters not blouses. The sweaters Are significant because they permit the body to move giving the feeling of  for Geoffrey Beene who spent three weeks travelling around Europe buying woolens in London and Silks in Lyons and visiting Berlin Munich and Vienna the major concern is making which Means and Are easy to take care i. Orange is a color he is quite taken with because he discovered it can act As 1 Neutral working Well with other  is interested in a woo Jersey continued on Page 14 car to Klein s ankle length coat i both fitted and flared. New York to Law Uhn Mlton fashion designers reflect on the look of the 80s Friday february 1986 the stars and stripes Page 13