European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - February 7, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Old. They Don t have to worry about what their no bands think before they  As women have less time to put themselves together fh3eene believes the designer has a responsibility to make to easier. He will provide scarfs and belts with Many of 9kls outfits so All a woman need add is shoes stockings ind gloves and she is dressed he said. Bui Blass disagreed. Having spent the holidays relaxing at me in Connecticut he had lots of time to think. I will not do designated working women s clothes e said. The woman running a factory in Georgia has a Lerent needs from the woman who runs an and Agency n new York. The biggest Chango in fashion in recent years is the Arley of clothes that Are available to everybody. The ame woman will Wear a Short leather skirt one Day an ankle length style the next. She picks what she feels is appropriate. She is not particularly Loyal to any designer. Lj3he does t ask the. Should i Wear the most a credible part of our time is that women know themselves Well enough to know what they want. I say Jve them what they  How do these four designers feel american clothes ire progressing on the world fashion scene tvs european designers tend to be  the european mystique overshadows  Blass we re beginning to do a Job in Japan but it s  we Are a Force in South America and the Orient Klein Sald. Europe is the most difficult Market Illy we will be  perfume he believes will Eadth Eway. What specifically Are designers working on for fall the trend to understated clothes will become even in de la Renta said. The principle is continue to. But i m going to make drop dead dresses for i using fur leather lace Gold maybe All Beene emphasizes clothes designed for women with masculine  like other designers Klein is enamoured of  Long jerseys that drape and Wool knits that retain. A Swir shape. While concerned with practicality he  must be involved with what they do. Her. You can t make clothes you Don t love just because s w think they will sell he says. The designer has to  ire the designer was known for it the couture s future value would be primarily As Wirtl song for lower priced lines of ready to Wear thing All made him hard to dismiss. I nor always designers like Jean Paul a Juer and . Franco Moschino in Italy and those Newyork slower Eastside Milieu Are getting a morei"1-1lontrtancourregeswithworkthatbears.atleast.an  that s Normal Courreges Sald flatthi8 lstolhlsdeslgn1  the Dales the current rage for Black clothes. There � people who live in a Black world he said. I see inn in Bright colors. Some people Are made to live in tent some Are made to live in the  and there no contemporary designers he admits to admiring. World s creativity stopped in 1 970," he said. If v Wynt to create something new they have to Gojack to 1970s  f the designer places himself in a line of pure design Way of tradition that descends from Chanel and Balen Daga. I continued the  he said. I night something More but i never destroyed what behind it. Style is always the same. Fashion is up up and Down abrupt. Chanel never made ran. She made style. I never made fashion either. Of us Courreges concluded he is unconcerned by his passing out of the front lines of fashion. A est la us Talbot it t Mafre Wollt Clad $550 million in Tain in 1985. New York to twi Picolo clothes by Claiborne Are in demand by Melissa Sones United press International at her most recent fashion show Liz Claiborne stood at the microphone wearing a campy sweater from her new men s collection with the word staff on it. It s Good for a laugh but this woman whose clothing Empire racked up sales revenues of $550 million last year has Little time for jokes. Talking after her fall i show which was held in one of Liz Claiborne inc s seventh Avenue showrooms Clai borne notes her company s hectic schedule. Her octo Ber Spring show is barely a memory and already it s fall. Never mind that she s working on Holiday 1987. This is a very heavy period says Claiborne from behind her big trademark Tortoise Shell glasses. We Don t get a break until after fall ii. It s just Contin Ual. It s no longer How it used to be when we got a  when Claiborne started her business 10 years ago with $50,000 of her own Money and $200,000 from friends and family she produced four collections a year. Soon it became five and now it s six. Fall i one of the clothing collections added Over the years by companies like Claiborne a is a strange beast because fall i has nothing to do with fall. It s a summer line that is delivered to the stores May to june. Summer s a dirty word says Claiborne. That s Why Jerry introduced it As May june " Jerry is co chairman Jerry Chazen. Who along with Claiborne and her husband Art Ortenberg started the company and is credited with its enor Nous Success. He traditionally introduces the fashion shows. Both Claiborne and Chazen know that retailers Are accustomed to Spring summer clothes arriving by april ,30 and being marked Down by july. They expect women to finish their summer shopping by then. I Don t want to buy shorts in March says Clai borne. According to Claiborne who is known for easy separates aimed at working females women shop for clothes All the time not just in one period designated by the Industry. She also finds it ironic that women shorts for example Are marked Down in july but mens shorts Aren t marked Down until August. The key to Success for what is essentially a second Spring or summer collection the first is the traditional one delivered in april is delivery Date. It s a question of strategy says Claiborne not ing that her company carefully watches How her follow ing responds to the weather. You shoot it into the store when it s 90 degrees. It s All Over she says. In order to sell the clothing itself must be among other things either lightweight arid wearable now says Claiborne or fresh and advanced looking. It also must be like the Cotton China girls Sepa rates inspired by the vivid colors used on chinese por Celain and easy to understand a clothing philosophy Claiborne put on the map. Women Don t have time. Says Claiborne. They want to look put together and they need help. They re not Good at putting an image together if it s not  More important than the knowledge that women Don t have time is that women american women Don t know How. They Don t get the training As Young people says Claiborne. European women get a lot More training on what colors to Wear How to Wear their hair. Parents in Europe Are a lot More demanding about setting Down the  Claiborne says she plays that role for american women provided stores play theirs by displaying clothes Well so customers understand the options. The option Lor May Juno shoppers Are clothing inspired by India or leopards zebras and dalmatians. Pieces Range from Bandeau and cropped tops to Bright shorts jumpsuits Cotton knit dresses new Capri pants and to shirts. Most tops have padded shoulders. Summer suits come in red and White stripes in contrasting widths with skirts to the knee and Roomy shirt like jackets. Claiborne reports an interesting trend business suits. Are making a comeback. Seems As if we just finished Reading about the demise of those mannish numbers and the Rise of alternatives especially dresses. There is a return to suits but they re newer says Claiborne. Everything  in her 10 years in business Claiborne has witnessed and contributed to dramatic changes most notably that women Are a lot Freer with what they Wear As Long As they re put  they now Wear Cotton knits to work or instance. Among factors influencing her business in the last 10 years. Claiborne says she has Given much thought to exercise not exercising. This collection includes run Ning clothes and karate Kimonos. Being women we All know what our faults Are says Claiborne who at 56 is slim and fit. " you Don t Wear a Bare Midriff. If you re spilling out so we have easier t shirts and tunic  .-wytr19b6 the stars and stripes Page 15