European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - February 7, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Fashion designers reflect on he look of the 80s continued from Page 13 i never thought of it As a Basic before he said. I thought of it As a decorative element a detail. But you can Roll up a lace dress into the Palm of your hand like a  because of the extra time available there is More experimentation in the preparation of fall clothes Beene pointed out. He is excited about the coming season he has already finished 15 styles including new versions of his successful wrapped suit Lor Spring. Cilvin Klein the prototypical american sportswear designer started his holidays in Venice before driving off to Cortina d am Pezzo Italy to ski. He bought his equipment the first Day and the second Day he broke his leg. In a cast and then a splint he has had More time for contemplation. The 80s have turned into a conservative time a quiet time he said. We leave parties earlier we Veall gotten older Wiser. The country s growing up. Fashion reflects what is happening. If designers have been around a bit and i be been making clothes in my own company for 17 years they have developed a style. My clothes have never expressed the craziness of say the 1960s. As new designers come up like Sprouse and Kamala. They tend to reflect what is going on More closely. For those of us who have been around the problem is to evolve to reflect the spirit of the time and still maintain our own recognizable  for Klein evolution will focus on clothes that fit the body gently but Are not too tight. He is also flirting with the idea of dramatic clothes for evening maybe a big skirt with a fitted bodice and a three Quarter flaring coat to go Over  the need he says. Is to find an evening look that is different from the Black dress everyone is wearing or clothes that glitter beyond  the fact that More than half the women in this country Are working has most designers say changed the Way they look at clothes. Working women have had a terrific Impact Klein said. Ten years ago the resort collections used to be sarongs and beachwear you thought of women with sultans who went away right after thanksgiving. Now you think in terms of what women can Wear to  for de la Renta the emphasis has shifted in the past decade from women of Leisure who dressed for lunch to women who dress for work. More women Are paying for their own clothes he andr cum get hot a i turf oof Model in a Faw fan actor. Tear de la Kenya t Toffy draped draft if it Trowt the body. At right Geoffrey Beene i fall Van on of hit wrapped Jde Ket iut in Gray flannel new York time changes for Courreges in the 1960s, when Andre Courreges was the infant terrible of French always dressing entirely in White the color of his famous go go boots have but when Courreges went to the French consulate in new York to show Courreges homme his first ready to Wear collection designed specs Flea by for american men he was always dressed entirely in Pink. He wore an evening suit that blazed with Pink sequins at his show. The next Day during an interview with his 15-year-old daughter. Marieas translator he wore Pink Slacks a Pink sweater and a. Baby Blue Terry cloth Cap. Why the change my hair turned while the 62 year old designer explained. Then he laughed and smiled puckish by another change for a Man once most often described As suspicious and shy. That s not All that has changed for Courreges. His business which soared in the 1960s, has had its ups and Downs since. The latest Down came when a French govern trient commission deprived him of the precious designation of grand  the commission said that since controlling interest in his company was acquired three years ago by i Token a japanese company the House of Courreges had failed to meet the criteria of Couturier status. But some things Haven t changed for Courreges. The so crowdathlsshowlncludedsuch1960stypesasanlcy-Whlte sequined evening suits pastel tweeds Silver lame Cap Send lame detailed sweaters Coats with patches of fuzzy mohalrf3 and a color palette that included Coral and Plum Seffl i seemed stuck in the pop fashion past. While there is no doubting the Appeal of his More sedate fashions Winter White flannel suits impeccably tailored Tweed jackets and Corduroy pant8,y All of which will be manufactured in the Orient Many in the crowd snickered openly at some designs. Win american men buy even at promised below designer prices i always proposed new things Courrege predicted. With time they come to  trained m in architect Courreges spent rite frs 11 years in fashion As a Bate Claga assistant he opened i own House in t96l. Within three years he d gained Cwm renown with his contemporary architectural design represented the need of the Century he said. But by the next decade fashion critics charged Courreges was in a rut. I started giving Modem Kew but the markets did t follow he said. They Len u it. Everybody but me got a bit  f still Courreges maintained his business through v he admits were some lean years. His reputation As f of the first pop Couturier a to Puller of such 8t the miniskirt and the pants suit one of the first c to make fashion shows into spectacles and to Page 14 the stars and stripes