European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - April 18, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Spectacular Mountain scenery flashes past the window As the train Heads West. Russ Kazal United press International his was no Ordinary Pancake breakfast. My order came aboard a swaying dining car on a train heading West with a rolling View of the Colorado Rockies As a backdrop. And i had an instant breakfast companion in the form of an elderly gentleman travelling to los Angeles for his granddaughter s wedding. The pancakes the sights the strangers turned companions and a platform rendezvous in Denver with a Friend were All part of my four Day train ride across America this Winter aboard the California Zephyr. The journey despite some inconveniences like sleeping three nights in a reclining chair was a Bona fide adventure on steel wheels. I got a guided tour of Indiana s factory Flatland from a trainman and Learned the unique skill of washing my hair in a five Inch deep Metal sink. My ears nearly froze on Chicago s blustery Lakeshore and i went through a Roll of film trying to capture the majesty of Colorado s peaks and canyons. I was rocked awake by the train taking curves in the Nebraska night and i viewed Trees with a Globe trotting botanist. The trip began with an invitation from a Friend to visit her in san Francisco. The journey offered an Opportunity to ride by rail and see mountains and valleys Rivers and lakes Between my Washington Home and the Pacific Ocean. At 4 50 . On a cold Clear saturday with a Backpack Slung Over my shoulder i climbed aboard. I held a $275 ticket that entitled me to passage first to Chicago on the Capitol limited and then to san Francisco on the California Zephyr. The coach was crowded with strange faces that would soon become familiar people a Soldier and his wife two rambunctious girls a Young Man with radio headphones. The View out the window better than any movie was the main attraction. But there were others particularly when the Sun went Down. Riders ate read and talked talked read and ate and they slept the Best they could. I saved the extra Cost of a berth starting at $87 a night by sleeping in my partly reclining seat. Later on the less crowded Zephyr i could stretch out Over two adjoining recliners. Each morning i went through what became a ritual washing my hair in a sink. Showers Are available Only West of Chicago for those willing to pay $362 above coach fare for a deluxe bedroom. I Learned the trick to shampooing in a diminutive train sink As we rumbled through Indiana the first morning aboard. You have to juggle the hot and cold water taps they do not stay Down when pressed with one hand while scrubbing your head with the other. After some practice i could switch Between taps so the end result was warm water not a boiled or Frozen head. I also Learned to Sway with the train so As not to bang my Skull against the faucet. Following my initial trip to the sink i returned to my seat and listened As a trainman gave a guided tour of the Industrial landscape that sprang up As we neared Page 14 the Illinois Border. To our right stood the Inland steel Plant a collection of immense red Sheds stretching to Lake Michigan. As the trainman rattled off output and employment statistics we rumbled past Corn syrup and sausage factories. Off in the distance appeared what looked like a scene from the wizard of of. But instead of the Emerald City it was Chicago its towers looking As Blue As Distant mountains. After the tour the narrator walked through our car. When one woman thanked him for pointing out the sights the trainman smiled his appreciation adding there Are always some Cranks who Don t  a nearby Man groused to one of the  the trainman shrugged and moved on. Finally we got to Chicago for a 41/2-hour Stopover. I Felt like a Sailor on Shore leave. Like Many of the passengers i made a beeline for the Observatory atop the world s tallest building the Sears Tower. From there i saw the Chicago bears football team prepare to Maul the los Angeles rams on the tiny Patch of Green that was soldiers Field. When i returned to the station to Board the double Decker coaches of the California Zephyr i found in each seat a helpful Amtrak guide to sights along the route West. The train left Chicago behind and was soon rolling across Illinois and its endless Flat Fields of Brown stubble and Black Earth striped with Snow. Night arrived and so did Iowa. I headed for dinner. Conductor watches As train rounds a curve in the sierras. New York times photo the stars and stripes in the Large windowed dining car i ate with a Middle aged californian who gave me a rundown on his state s seasons and politics. He also had something to say about travelling the Midwest after Sundown. Looking into the night i tried to make out the Iowa landscape. I wish i could see All this i said. Did you see Illinois he asked. Yes i replied. Then you Aren t missing anything it All looks the same he said. The next morning As i looked Forward to a rendezvous with a woman Friend the Zephyr arrived in Denver. Even though the train was 45 minutes late i got a hug and both of the City s papers at once. We met under the clock on the platform which to my Friend an avid f. Scott Fitzgerald fan looked like the one at the Biltmore hotel where Scott and Zelda used to  there was time Only for a Quick stroll through the seedy District around the station and some bits of exchanged news before i had to Leboard the train. Then the most spectacular stretch of the journey began. We wound up the Foothills of the Rockies and entered the mountains front Range at a crawl. The jagged peaks covered with Snow and evergreens could Only be crossed using tunnels 29 of them from 78 feet to 6.2 Miles Long. We glided through them All. Then gradually the splendor of the mountains opened before us through the wide windows of the train. Canyon Cliffs and Flat top mesas followed As we sat Back in the lounge car enjoying nature s show. The show was enhanced by another passenger who was viewing the sparse foliage out the window with keen interest and in the tradition of fellow travellers was willing to share her expertise. It turned out she was a postdoctoral fellow in botany and for the next several hours we talked about Trees geology and her research experiences in Alaska and South Africa. Next came Utah More canyons austere desert scrub and mountains. Our last Day on the train carried us into California s Sierra Nevada mountains across the state s Central Valley and then on to the train depot in Oakland. From there we Rode our final Miles across the Bay Bridge to san Francisco aboard a bus through an afternoon rain broken by a Brilliant Sunset. Four Days later i returned Home aboard a flight that was delayed several hours. Wishing for the relaxed atmosphere and easy going companions i d found on the train i finally arrived Back in Washington of air. Twenty hours later so did my Luggage. A Sears Tower dominates the Chicago Skyline. New York times photo a " a a / i v n a act Tim Palolo dining aboard the train is a unique experience. Riding easy by Russ Kazal United press International he growing tribe of Long distance train travellers bask in a relaxed atmosphere plenty of leg room and splendid views of the country at the expense of Days spent in transit and sometimes less than restful nights. Here Are some tips for a Long distance ride on the rails. 9 fares Amtrak offers special All aboard America fares giving ticket holders 45 Days of travel with few restrictions. Passengers Ca i ride within one of three sections of the country Eastern Western or Central for $150. The Cost is $250 for travel in two regions and $275 for passage in All three regions. Sleep snoozing in your reclining coach seat is one overnight alternative and More comfortable than it sounds. But those willing to Shell out for a sleeping car berth can spend nights As restful As on those famous trains of Yore. Sleeper prices Between Washington and san Francisco for example Start at $87 Over coach fare East of Chicago for a Romette with a considerable amount of service according to Amtrak corporate communications manager Clifford Black. On the other end is the deluxe bedroom available on the two Day Chicago san Francisco leg featuring a Shower and swivelling easy chair for $362. Western trains also offer sleeping car compartments designed to accommodate handicapped travellers. The Chicago san Francisco Cost is $231. Pictures few can resist the temptation to capture the train s View of America on film. Bring plenty of  cannot be purchased on Board. You May also find window reflections overlaying the Waves of Grain in your photos. Food dining car fare is surprisingly Good and affordable comparable in Cost to medium priced restaurants in Large cities. Still it s possible to save by bringing food with you or picking up sandwiches at Stopover Points. But eat in the dining car at least once the company and atmosphere Are Worth considerably More than the Check. Diversions fellow passengers Are often the most entertaining feature of train trips. They come from All Over the United states and meeting them Over dinner or in the lounge car is easy. Books Small Board games and radios or tape players use headphones also make Good travelling companions. True train buffs will want to buy a Railroad Atlas As Well. But the Best gauge of your rail Progress is free the incomparable route guide provided by Amtrak in the California Zephyr. The guide traces the paths of the Zephyr desert wind and Pioneer locating and describing sights along their Way. Friday april 18, 1986 the stars and stripes Page 15