European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - April 23, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                France s Cit of Popes statue of one of Avignon s Popes at papal  a guide explains some of the features of the papal Palace using a Model inside the Palace itself. Stories and photos by Linda White travel editor a Vignon was a sleepy town in the South of France until the Popes arrived. For almost a Century it enjoyed riches and revels and when the Popes went Back to Rome it settled once More into its quiet life. Until the tourists arrived. In summer they swarm into town to see the papal Palace almost empty now but grand nonetheless and the St. Benezet Bridge where the townspeople danced in the song at least. The Bridge Breaks off in the Middle of the Rhone River. Paths wind up the Rocher Des Doms a great Bluff overlooking the River planted with Trees and gardens around Ponds where ducks swim. The local people walk their dogs there Exchange gossip on the Park benches and smile at the tourists who snap their pictures. The Pace is relaxed cafes line the main Square the place d Horlboge and the Rue de la Republic. A Carousel on the Square goes round and round with its laughing Young riders. A Street performer dances his marionettes along a Low Wall in front of the Palace. On feast Days the penitent brotherhoods still walk in procession As they did in the 14th Century. From 1309, seven Popes real Popes lived in Avignon a Refuge from unrest in Rome. In 1377, Gregory i restored the holy see to Italy but almost at once a great schism broke out and two anti Popes took up residence at Avignon s papal Palace. The Palace stands firmly on Rock and its Lack of windows and loopholes gives it a menacing look. It was looted during the French revolution and later served As Barracks and a prison. The Kitchen Tower is most impressive with its 60-foot conical Chimney soaring from the Center of the room above the roasting spit and ovens. The few remaining frescoes give a hint of past splendours too the deep blues in the ceiling of St. Martial s Chapel the scenes of pleasure painted on the Walls of two of the Chambers. The entry fee is 19 francs about $2.75 and guided Tours in English during High season Are available. The Palace looks out Over a Square and to one Side is the Petit palais the museum of medieval painting and sculpture. Among the works there Are Botticelli s Virgin and child and the abduction of Helen of Troy by liberale a Verona. Avignon is a town of Small streets museums and churches. The Best Way to see it is to wander at random through the cloth dyers Quarter Ste. Marthe Quarter the balance Quarter. Sometimes there Are charming houses sometimes luxury shops always cafes. A word of warning Young boys operating especially in the Palace area Are adept a picking pockets. They work in groups surrounding their Quarry chattering and dashing about. The distraction makes it easy for one of them to remove a Wallet from pocket or purse. The tourist office publishes Avignon Pratique which includes a map of the town and lists museums Public services campgrounds hotels and restaurants. For information about visiting Avignon Contact office de tourism 41 Cours Jean Juares f-84000 Avignon France. Tel. 1690-826511. France 25 50kilometers Golfe do lion Mediterranean sea the Pont do card highest of All roman Aqueduct Bridges spans the cordon River in Southern France. Dome s o in the Early morning the Bridge i silhouetted against the sky. Day Breaks. The stones take on a Rosy glow. The Only sound comes from waking Birds and now and then Acar. But soon the tour buses will arrive the Day trippers will drive up with their swimsuits and picnic lunches the souvenir shops will open. All because of a Bridge the Pont do Gard rising 18 stories High across the landscape of Provence in Southern France. It was built 2,000 years ago across the Garden River to support the Aqueduct carrying the Cool pure water of the Eure Spring to Nimes. It is highest of All the Aqueduct Bridges built by the romans. The exceptionally wide Arches give the Structure an airiness in spite of its mass. The Arches Rise three tiers and deep easy Steps Lead up a Hillside to the top. It is possible to walk the entire length of the water Channel at the top level. Where the covering blocks of Stone Are missing one can peek Over the Side to the Valley below but anyone under five feet tall will have to tiptoe. Daredevils climb to the edges and balance 160 feet in the air braving the gusts of wind that sweep up the Valley. Calcium deposits have built up along the sides and Bottom of the water Channel but traces remain of the Reddish Brown Mineral tar Maltha that the romans used to make it absolutely water tight. The Bridge is built of Limestone huge blocks weighing several tons each pitted and bruised by the centuries but Strong enough to withstand earthquakes and floods. It fell into disuse after the invasion of the barbarians and in the 13th Century a Road was built across it dangerously cutting into the supporting piers arid making deep ruts into the soft Stone. Then Napoleon came along was impressed by the construction and ordered restoration of the Bridge. Today it has its original appearance with the addition of new Road attached to one Side. At the base of the piers a number of inscriptions do remain from the time when Compagnoni travelled through the country. These men were members of a secret sect of Trade guilds. Once admitted to the sect after strenuous tests Gard the men Learned trades and undertook to extend their knowledge with the tour de France. They travelled from City to City in the direction of the Sun where they met with other Compagnoni. The men were highly appreciated for their knowledge and much sought after for their work. Nimes was one of the prescribed stops on the journey. The symbols of a number of trades can still be found on the Bridge the Square the Compass the Hammer. An older Mark on the Bridge is a Bas Relief phallus at the top of the second level third Arch from the right Bank on the downstream Side. The Symbol was often used by the romans to protect them from the evil  the entire Aqueduct system stretches some 25 Miles crossing the Small perfectly preserved borne re Bridge and winding through the Small valleys of re Moulins. Sometimes it is Aerial on solid Walls sometimes it goes underground. The Only remains of the Eure Spring which once supplied each of Nimes 50,000 residents with 400 liners of water a Day is a Small Well at uzes. The water was hard but so pure that the romans did not have to use purification systems along the Way. They were sticklers about the water they drank and often killed animals who drank from their Springs to see if their livers were healthy. The Aqueduct ends at a catch Basin in Nimes in the Rue de Lapeze. Remains show that the water Tower was ornate but today Only the Basin is preserved. The Pont do Gard is located roughly Between Nimes and Avignon off Highway n-86. Road directions Are Well marked. . One can walk the water Channel of the Aqueduct Page 14 the stars and stripes wednesday april 23, 1986 the stars and stripes Page 15