European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - August 12, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Is illustration Lisa Rivard by Barbara Kafka new York times ome summer there is no easier Way to entertain than with a steaming bowl of pasta accompanied by a succulent sauce a Large salad some Good bread cheese and wine. The microwave oven is Good for preparing the sauce but it s not the place to Cook your pasta. Leave that to a big pot of water on top of the stove and make sure you Start it boiling Early enough. In the meantime or the Day before make your sauce Wash your lettuce make salad dressing and you re set. The microwave oven shortens the cooking time for the sauce and gives especially luscious results. Here Are some sauce recipes to try. The Tomato vegetable sauce is mildly spicy and could be used on a first course pasta As Well As a main course. If you use it As a main course add a hunk of cheese to the meal. The creamy lobster sauce makes a lavish party for about 12 people from Only two Small lobsters. The lobsters Cook in the microwave oven leaving Only the pasta to be cooked on the regular stove. Incidentally this is an exceptionally easy Way to Cook a Small amount of lobster. Tomato Puree Basic Tomato sauce preparation time 5 minutes cooking time 32 minutes 21/2 pounds tomatoes. Core tomatoes. Cut a Slit in the skin of each. Place in a 2va-quart souffle dish and cover tightly with microwave plastic wrap. Cook in a 650 to 700-Watt oven at 100 percent Power for 12 minutes. Prick plastic with the tip of a Sharp knife to release steam. Remove from oven and uncover carefully. Pass tomatoes through the medium disc of a food Mill. Return Tomato Puree to dish and Cook uncovered at 100 percent Power for 20 minutes stirring once or twice until Puree is reduced by half. Remove from oven and use or let Cool to room temperature and refrigerate or freeze in 1-cup or 1/2-cup quantities in microwavable storage containers. Low wattage variation Cook cored tomatoes As above in a 400 to 500-Watt oven at 100 percent Power for 15 minutes. Pass through food Mill. Cook making Coffee iced Coffee by Marian Burros new York times sitting at a lunch counter the other Day i watched the waitress pour steaming Coffee Over a Glass Ful of ice cubes most of which melted almost immediately. The result was a Pale Brown liquid reminiscent of dishwater. It reminded me of my husband s complaints about the dreadful iced Coffee he was invariably served when in the 60s and 70s, he travelled through the South in the summer. He says he tried Many times to explain to various waiters and waitresses that iced Coffee is made on the same principle As iced Tea. He reasoned that since southerners generally made wonderful iced Tea they could simply translate the knowledge to the making of a iced Coffee. After All the Cardinal Rule is the same you let the Coffee Cool before adding ice. But he could never get his Point across and finally gave up when his request for iced Coffee produced a Mug of hot Coffee with a couple of ice cubes thrown in. Getting a decent Glass of iced Coffee in new York in t so easy anymore either. I suspect it s because most people Don t take the time to do it properly. No one offers a course on iced Coffee. Knowing How to make it is supposedly a Given like knowing How to boil water. First the Coffee must be stronger than Normal Coffee in America usually being a relatively weak brew in comparison with most european Coffee. Donald n. Schoenholt the president of the Gillies Coffee co. In new York offers this Rule of thumb use about 25 percent More grounds than you would for hot Coffee. Iced Coffee should not be made with leftover Coffee. Schoenholt said Don t do what some restaurateurs who shall remain nameless do take Coffee leftover from the night before and refrigerate  the Coffee loses oxygen and it becomes murky. It Breaks Down and goes Flat. The Best of All methods is to make the extra strength Coffee and freeze it in an ice cube tray. Just before serving pour either hot or room temperature Coffee Over the cubes. That Way there is no dilution As the cubes melt. Schoenholt goes a step further. For those who like Cream or milk in their Coffee he recommends adding one or the other to the Coffee before freezing. You get an interesting color effect As the cubes melt and the milk mixes with the Coffee giving it a marbleized appearance he said. The taste keeps on changing  in other words the Coffee becomes creamier not weaker. Schoenholt also recommends mixing dark roast Coffee either espresso or viennese with whatever Coffee you usually use. The resulting brew will hold up better Over ice. For those who like sweetened iced Coffee never add granulated sugar. It will just sit in the Bottom of the Glass undissolved. Use superfine sugar also called Caster or bar sugar. Or if you just happen to have some simple syrup around you can use that. Now if you Don t want to go to the trouble of making Coffee ice cubes there Are other ways to get around pouring hot Coffee Over regular uncovered for 50 to 60 minutes until reduced to 2 cups. Yield 2 cups. To defrost Frozen Tomato Puree to defrost 1/2 cup uncover Freezer Container. Cover tightly with microwave plastic wrap. Cook in a 650-to 700-Watt oven at 100 percent Power for 2 minutes 30 seconds. To defrost 1 cup uncover Freezer Container. Cover tightly with microwave plastic wrap. Cook at 100 percent Power for 4 minutes 30 seconds. Low wattage variation to defrost v2 cup uncover Freezer Container. Cover tightly with microwave plastic wrap. Cook in a 400 to 500-Watt oven at 100 percent Power for 4 minutes. To defrost 1 cup uncover Freezer Container. Cover tightly with microwave plastic wrap. Cook at 100 percent Power for 7 minutes 30 seconds. Tomato vegetable sauce preparation time 12 minutes cooking time 11 minutes 6 cloves garlic smashed and peeled 2 ribs celery Strung and Cut into 2-Inch pieces 1/4 Pound onion peeled and quartered 1 medium size red Bell Pepper cored seeded de ribbed and Cut in Large chunks 3 sprigs Parsley stems discarded 1/4 cup Olive off 1 141/2-ounce can whole tomatoes in juice or 1vz cups homemade Tomato Puree see recipe 1 Tablespoon Sweet paprika 1 Teaspoon hot paprika or Chili powder without cumin 11/2 Teaspoons coarse Salt 1/z cup heavy Cream. In a food processor finely chop garlic celery onion red Pepper and Parsley. In a 2-quart souffle dish Combine chopped vegetables with Olive Oil. Cook uncovered in a 650 to 700-Watt oven at 100 percent Power for 4 minutes stirring once. While vegetables Are cooking coarsely chop tomatoes in liquid in food processor. Add to chopped vegetables along with seasonings. Cook uncovered at 10 percent Power for 7 minutes stirring twice. Stir in heavy Cream. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve with Spaghetti i or Linguine. Low wattage variation prepare sauce As above cooking vegetables uncovered in a 400-to cubes. You can make the Coffee two hours before you Are ready to serve it and allow it to Cool. Or you can do what Schoenholt does place freshly brewed Coffee in a non breakable Glass Container cover it with plastic wrap and put it in the Freezer for 45 minutes. Or you can do what Schoenholt s Mother used to do to make jello quickly place ice cubes in an airtight plastic bag put the plastic bag in the Coffee and stir it around. For a Garnish you might try frosting the rim of the Glass with sugar. Place a tall Glass upside Down on a dampened paper Towel. Then dip the rim in sugar. This is More for appearance than taste. Other usual1 garnishes for iced Coffee Are sprigs of mint or cinnamon Sticks but Schoenholt said he particularly also liked another version he was served the other Day. Fresh apricots were sliced into wedges and Hung from the Side of the Glass. Thus decorated the Coffee was served with an Apricot glazed cake. Anything would taste Good with Apricot glazed cake. The ultimate iced Coffee it contains a scoop of Coffee ice Cream and it s called a Coffee float. 500-Watt oven at 100 percent Power for 7 minutes. Add tomatoes and Cook 12 minutes. Finish As above. Yield 31/2 cups enough for 3 pounds of dry pasta. Note each Pound of pasta plus sauce will serve 6 people. Creamy lobster sauce preparation time 20 minutes cooking time 25 minutes 2 11/4-Pound live lobsters rinsed in cold water 3 Tablespoons unsalted butter 1/4 Pound onion peeled and minced 1 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 Teaspoon Dijon style Mustard a Teaspoon hot red Pepper sauce like Tabasco 1 cup heavy Cream 1/2 cup Chicken Broth 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves 2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed Lemon juice or to taste coarse Salt to taste freshly ground Black Pepper to taste. In a Large microwave Safe plastic bag arrange lobsters head to Tail. Twist the top of the bag shut. Cook in a 650 to 700-Watt oven at 100 percent Power for 8 minutes. Carefully remove from oven. Drain any liquid that has collected in the bag into a bowl. Remove lobsters from bag and allow to Cool while proceeding with the recipe. In a 2-quart souffle dish melt butter uncovered at 100 percent Power for 2 minutes. Stir in onion and Cook uncovered at 100 percent Power for 3 minutes. Remove from oven. Whisk in Worcestershire Mustard and Tabasco. Set aside. Holding the lobster Over the bowl separate the head from the body. Using a spoon scrape out Omalley and Roe into the bowl being careful to avoid the brain Sac. Holding the feelers squeeze the head to extract juices. Remove meat from Tail and claws. Dice the tails. Reserve claws whole for garnishing. Add Cream and Chicken Broth to onion butter mixture. Heat uncovered at 100 percent Power for 4 minutes. Whisk Omalley Roe and reserved juices into Cream mixture. Cook uncovered at 100 percent Power for 4 minutes. Add tarragon and reserved lobster Tail meat and Cook 2 minutes longer. Remove from oven. Season to taste with Lemon juice Salt and Pepper. Toss with hot fettuccine. Garnish with reserved claws. Serve immediately. Yield 3 cups sauce enough for 21/2 pounds dry fettuccine. Serves 10 to 12 As a main course. Sampling Good life at an Island inn by Nathalie Dupree Cox news service Jinx and Jeff Morgan live out the dream that nestles in the hearts of Many of us. They own and run a Small picturesque restaurant and inn on the Island of Tortola in the British Virgin islands. When you sit on the Stone walled porch of their restaurant the sugar Mill shaded by Lush foliage you can watch the Sun setting Over a clean Beach and the Clear Pale Blue of the Caribbean. Sailboats heading for Home Are framed in the Gold the departing Sun casts on the water As a Farewell. Gentle Trade winds Caress your skin. A local band plays softly in the background. This you think is the life. The restaurant also serves As the main Entrance of their Small hotel with the registration desk doubling As a bar manned by cheerful people. Comfortable chairs Are backed by bookshelves filled with the kind of books you always wanted to read on vacation. If you prefer you can read by the circular Pool near where oxen crushed sugar Cane 350 years ago. Perhaps the food is so Good because they have kept it simple. They offer the Best fresh food they can by flying in fresh fish and beef. Each night three entrees Are available with no duplication for several weeks. With such a limited menu the food is More affordable to them and their guests and they can train their staff Well on each dish. Dining in the original rum distillery that English planters built of Stone we had Black bean soup followed by a Crisp salad of lettuce mushrooms and red peppers. We could t decide if the simple but perfectly cooked filet of beef garnished with Tomato or the Caribbean lobster crepe was better. And we were sorry we had t tried the ribs. Dessert was a tossup Between chocolate decadence or fresh pineapple. The meal was enhanced by foods from the morgans experimental vegetable Garden. The Good life. Do they have it All they have a stunning attractiveness As a couple. She laughs infectiously at his stories the time the Power went out the time the stove would t Light the Challenge of getting Good ingredients shipped to them something one of their employees did. They readily admit what everyone who has Ever run a Small hotel on an Island knows it is sheer madness an inexplicable addiction to do so. There is no time for lolling on the Beach. Their time is spent making their guests part of their family. They work 18 hours a Day. They love it but can t quite figure out Why. They write a regular column for Bon appetite Magazine and Are on the Road a Good Deal of the time which adds to their balance and perspective about their beloved inn. As you peer Over the Garden Walls with Jinx or read beside the Pool and wonder what it was like Here 350 years ago or As you Dine amid All the wonderful haitian primitive paintings that line the Walls you decide yes they probably do have it All. And then a new guest checks in asking for help in locating something lost. Jinx reaches for the phone and smiles and begins the search. Well maybe Paradise is not quite perfect. Rum glazed ribs 6 pounds pork spareribs Salt and Pepper 2 8-ounce cans Tomato sauce 1 cup dark rum 1 cup Honey 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1/z cup minced fresh onion 2 cloves garlic minced or mashed 1 Teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Cut the ribs apart into individual pieces. Place them in a pan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. Drain discarding liquid. This May be done in Advance and ribs allowed to Cool. If they Are refrigerated let them come Back to room temperature before broiling Combine remaining ingredients in a Small pan. Bring to a boil and simmer 5 minutes. Preheat broiler or prepare Barbecue Grill. Grill the parboiled ribs slowly in oven broiler 5 to 6 inches from the heat or on a Barbecue Grill turning and Basting often with rum sauce. Serves 6. This recipe is from the sugar Mill hotel Cookbook by Jinx and Jeff Morgan Tortola British Virgin islands. Page 14 the stars and stripes Friday August 12 1988 the stars and stripes Page 15