European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - January 20, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Wearable and practical Are the watchwords for this year s styles. Fashion favourites for Spring calming Down with classics not by Bernadine Morris new York times the masquerade is Over. Sense of High seriousness pervades the new clothes that stores All Over the United state shave ordered for next Spring. After last year s extravagant styles that puffed too much and bared too much the watchwords now include wearable practical and  the most popular clothes Are those that Are kind to the body flattering and surprisingly stylish. What s More they look As if they could be worn with Grace for More than one season. Though designers have pulled Back from the Over elaborate designs of last Spring they seem to have uncovered a new lode of creativity the clothes look fresh without looking strange. The lines Start arriving in the stores next month so customers can judge for themselves. In Advance season showings in cities like Houston Oklahoma City Kansas City Minneapolis Memphis St. Louis and bal Harbour Fla. Consumers have indicated their approval of styles like pants suits with wider legs and softer jackets dresses with shaping gentle Drawable fabrics like crepe or Chiffon rather than Crisp sibilant taffeta. These clothes will not shake the world they will make women feel comfortable. What makes customers feel the least comfortable is hem lengths. We Are shipping our skirts and dresses Long enough to cover the Knees said Syd Shaw vice president of Oscar de la Renta. But most of the clothes look younger and swinger when they Stop just above the Knees. It is important that a knowledgeable Saleswoman turn up the hem to demonstrate this to the customer so that she can make up her own  sportswear designers like Calvin Klein and Donna Karan report fewer problems with skirt lengths than do dress designers now that trousers Are More acceptable. The four Best Selling daytime outfits at Klein All involve trousers with Cashmere sweaters crepe blouses or Short jackets. For evening a Short strapless Gold lame dress shares top honors with a Chiffon jumpsuit. The trouser legs on the Chiffon style Are so wide they look like a skirt. The new designs can be worn with Grace for More than one season. Not orders for trousers Are called exceptionally Strong at Donna Karan partially because pants far outnumber skirts in the collection. Karan s Basic pants in the Spring orders Are cuffed or a cuffed or draped in the front and tapered to the Ankles. They Are usually combined with jackets that either Button or wrap to one Side or Are straight and boxy. The boxy jacket is full enough to be worn Over a front wrapped skirt without causing any bulges. The two skirts that top the Spring orders at Karan Are the front wrapped style which bares the Knees and an ankle length skirt that fits smoothly Over the hips and flares gently at the hem. Chiffon pants Are popular for evening sometimes paired with one of the Side wrapped daytime jackets. While suits and dresses dominate the daytime orders at both Oscar de la Renta and Pauline Trigere trousers Are significant at night. At Oscar de la Renta they have enormously full legs each As wide As a modest Ball gown. At Trigere a top style for late Day includes a Flower printed Wool crepe jacket in Black on beige with striped pants in the same colors. Cost conscious customers Are adding an extra All Black skirt or pants to Wear with the jacket miss tregere said. A Black and White striped jump suit is also popular. Best Selling dresses at Trigere include an Aqua Wool crepe version of her famous Princess dress and a crepe de Chine tunic with striped bands at the sleeves and hem combined with a Black skirt. The leading suit is a Black and White Tablecloth checked style shown with a White Blouse. You can also  a sweater the practical designer said at the moment Trigere is working on a group of caftan for Bergdorf Goodman which include jewelled styles Flower prints and splashing abstract prints. They come in one size to fit All figures slips to be worn under them Are made in regular sizes. The caftan Are expected in the store Early next month. A new look for 89 by Carrie Donovan new York times few shifts in the Way you put yourself together hair makeup and jewelry can make a significant change in appearance. Here Are some suggestions for achieving a 1989 look at least from the neck up. If your hair is Chin length and fairly straight try loosening it up a bit. Have it trimmed Shorter so that it grazes the Bottom of the ear. It should also be shaped so that it is Fuller and a Little Wavier. If you have Bangs make them wis pier. Loosen up on your makeup too. Try less outlining and concentrate Only on making lashes appear More Lustrous. But Don t use fakes go for a Rosy healthy looking complexion and do away with hard outlining of the lips. The Mouth should look lips ticked but in a softer Way. The idea is to achieve a carefully plotted appearance of naturalness. Experiment with earrings. If you have been wearing discreet pearls or Little Gold loops try bigger bolder proportions. Non pierced ears could be decorated with clip on that Are fairly Large to peek out provocatively under newly shortened hair. Hesitate though before plunging into big dangling earrings at least for daytime. Do you Wear glasses then try on All kinds of new frames to make the most of this great cosmetic enhancement. Chances Are you will find one flattering that you never imagined would work. It s amazing How glasses dramatically and positively alter the visage and image you project. The stars and stripes Page 13