European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - April 19, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                A sturdy Stone Aqueduct spans a Gorge near Les plantiers.c�v61wl�,s a Reward for the intrepid traveler abandoned old buildings like this one its Stone Walls crumbling Are frequently seen in the Cave ones Region. Story and photographs by Andrew Cowin Quot everybody out Quot after 12 trying hours at the wheel this was the last Straw. We were about one mile up a precipitous dirt track and hopelessly Hung up on a particularly vicious hairpin Bend. It was All my fault. I was the one who found the brochure s warning about the Cev Ennes Region a Access tres difficile a so irresistible. I was the one who argued so persuasively against our usual Holiday destinations a the Seething masses the Joyless scrum aging around ill lit masterpieces in stifling museums the torment of guarding cameras purses and female posteriors from grasping fingers. I wanted the pure invigorating Spring water of nature and Solitude not the Heady titillating cocktails of the typical tourist dive. Admirable sentiments perhaps but their Luster was fading fast on this twisting path. This was i later discovered a fairly typical first encounter with the Cev Ennes a Remote and largely unknown Region of France about 40 Miles Northwest of Nimes. In fact it must be precisely this awkwardness of Access that has ensured that this area of outstanding natural Beauty has so far escaped the predation of Large scale tourism. For those willing to take the trouble of getting there though the landscape alone is Reward enough. With its endless vistas of jagged Heather speckled ridges and plunging narrow valleys the area has a Majestic grandeur that is almost As intimidating As its austerity. In such a wild and rugged setting the business of living As opposed to vacationing is an unrelenting struggle against impossible Odds and so it s hardly surprising that the Cev Ennes is one of the most thinly populated districts in Europe. Deserted houses and villages Are characteristic of the Region. For All their quaint Charm they Are melancholy reminders of the grinding poverty of the area and striking evidence that in the last 100 years or so its population has fallen by 70 percent. Man s Battle for survival has left its Marks on the lower slopes of the Cev Ennes Hills instead of the natural covering of Beech and Oak Long since used to feed local Glass makers ovens there Are whole forests of Sweet Chestnut once an important Export of the area and White Mulberry a favorite food of silk Worms. Because Cev Ennes Summers Are consistently hot temperatures in the upper 90s Are common and sunny except for the fortnightly thunderstorm these attractive Woods Are a Welcome Refuge. This Mediterranean climate and the ferocious insects that thrive in it makes it advisable to go for Altitude at least 500 meters when looking for accommodations. Since the few shops that Are to be found in the smaller villages demand famine prices it s not a bad idea to be reasonably close to one of the larger towns. Prices Aren t Low there either but most larger towns have Good weekly markets where shoppers can Stock up on basics. A particularly colourful and Lively example is the tuesday Market in , where local craftsmen also set up stalls. As hotels Are Only to be found in such larger towns a expect to pay at least 130 francs about $23 for a tatty but clean double room a those seeking Wilder surroundings have Little Choice but to look for a House to let. Rates Start at about 1,000 francs $175 per week for 8 stripes Magazine april 19, 1990