European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - April 19, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The Church of St. Flour do Pompidou is just off the Scenic route known As corniche Des Cev Ennes. Four persons in the High season. Although the Best Way to enjoy the Cev Ennes is on foot or on a bicycle a they can be rented at reasonable rates in several towns including , Barsac and Coucoules a there Are two notable exceptions Worth mentioning. First the 35-mile stretch from Florae to  a the so called corniche Des Cev Ennes a is a memorable drive with some of the area s Best views. Second while Public transport in the Region leaves much to be desired the regular steam train service from  to Anduze is a pleasant trip Down memory Lane in pretty surroundings. In route it s Worth stopping off to see the curious Bamboo Forest in Pra France where a stunning display of Lotus Flowers can be seen in july and August. If you re walking in the Cev Ennes it pays to buy a detailed map. Otherwise you stand a Good Chance of falling foul of the exasperating tendency of Many paths to Peter out for no obvious reason. Two worthwhile targets for More intrepid walkers Are Mont Lozere a at 1,699 meters the highest Peak in the Cev Ennes a and the More southerly Mont Aig Oual 1,567 meters. Each rewards the foot sore and weary with marvelous views of their respective sections of the National Park of Cev Ennes while Aig Oual has the distinction of being the Only place from which weather permitting it is possible to see both the Alps and the pyrenees. Those who take a More pedestrian View of walking May Well choose to shun the towering Heights and stick to the valleys. The advantage of this More sedentary approach is that at the first signs of weariness one can plunge into the Crystal dear water of a River that is bound to be nearby. A distinguishing feature of the Gardon every River in the area has this name is that the regularly occurring waterfalls have scooped out Lovely natural swimming pools that Are usually secluded and deserted. Those curious about the history of the Cev Ennes should take in the museum at be Vigan which provides a fascinating chronicle of the ingenuity required to defy this largely hostile environment. The Region s Only foray into the political limelight a the brutal treatment of the protestants who fled there after the revocation of the edict of Nantes in 1685 a is documented in the Musee do desert near Millet. Of the few castles scattered around medieval Portes and baroque Rousson Are of pedal interest. Churches of any sort Are amazingly thin but the dedicated Church Hunter can find some Consolation at St. Flour do Pompidou just off the corniche and St. Marcel de Montfo Hillouse near Les planters. On the whole though this is not an area for culture vultures. Rather one of its most winning features is that it conveys the feeling that one can do absolutely nothing with Good conscience. Entrenched in a cafe in a pretty Village like Les planters Valler augue or , it s a Delight to Settle into the easy Pace of country life. After a Day or two a game of boules Between the local matadors becomes an event of major importance while the activities of the local Fisherman Are soon a matter of consuming interest. It May be that in the Cev Ennes one can relearn that pleasant Art that most of us forgot Long ago a the Art of watching the world go by. Information about accommodations and activities in the Cev Ennes can be obtained by writing to office de tourism d ales it Des Cev Ennes . 49, 30101 ales Fedex France. Cowin a resident of Heidelberg West Germany has written articles on european travel and history Lor various English language publications. The wails and buildings of the Village of Les brits in the Cev Ennes blend in with the shrubs and rocks of the surrounding Hills. Apri 19, 1990 stripes Magazine