European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - May 31, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                A Sov Iff Soldier stands guard inside the Cannon lined Walls of the Kremlin. Monuments like this one Are among the artwork found beneath Moscow in its extensive subway system. Contrasts continued from Page 4 sequestered in special hotels herded around together to tourist Sites and discouraged from striking out on their own. With glasnost this is changing somewhat but not dramatically. Our group stayed in the hotel Cosmos a French built Glass and steel colossus with More than 1,700 rooms. It was a modern comfortable facility clean and with Good service. There were a few drawbacks chiefly the hotel s distance from the City Center a half hour by bus or taxi and a Little Over 20 minutes by metro. The food was mediocre to abominable dried fish appetizers Gray Brown meat cooked to death and served in Gray flour Gravy with Gray potatoes almost no Green vegetables watery soup with noodles. The bread however was Good and usually fresh. Adding to the isolation Factor was the Security at the hotel uniformed policemen at the Entrance plainclothes policemen outside concierges on every Wing to keep watch on the hallways. In three Days it is impossible to get More than a Quick overview of Moscow. The City was founded in 1147, when Prince Yuri Dolgoruky proposed the construction of a fortress on the Banks of the Moscow River where the Kremlin now stands. In the 14th Century it became the de Facto capital of Russia and it remained so until Czar Peter the great moved the seat of government to Leningrad in 1713. In 1918 the bolsheviks returned the capital to Moscow. In its nearly 850-year history Moscow has seen War famine revolution invasion and Imperial glory. Napoleon captured and lost it and Adolf Hitler s legions got within Cannon Range. Akhmetova lamented the fact that we were visiting Moscow in the ugliest  after Winter s ravages a heavy coat of grime covers the City a Gritty Gray dust that swirls up from the streets to Settle on cars and grind Between the Teeth of pedestrians. More than a third of the City s 220 Square Miles is devoted to Parks but in Early Spring they Are Muddy and Brown their Trees Bare. We got an excellent introduction to the main landmarks As might be expected from a professional guide with 17 years of experience. From the cathedrals of the Kremlin to the artworks in the Pushkin museum Akhmetova told us about her country and her City. Hazenbrook who had been to Moscow with other groups had speculated on How much propaganda we would hear. But in the spirit of perestroika we were spared the lectures about glorious accomplishments of the socialist workers state and heroic sacrifices for the motherland. Akhmetova talked openly about the changes and even showed a wry sense of humor about the problems that came with them. She conceded that the country is in an economic crisis but expressed optimism for the future. When we passed a shoe store with a line stretching two blocks out the door she joked that it s part of the  Only occasionally was her account coloured by omission. When we passed the huge open air swimming Pool along the moskva River she spoke of How it is heated year round and How popular it is. But it was not until asked that she told the tragic Story of the splendid old Church the Cathedral of Christ the Savior that occupied the site until it was destroyed by the bolsheviks. The plan was to build a huge new Palace the Palace of soviets. But construction studies found the area unsuitable the soil too soft the water table too High. The believers said it was the punishment of god she told us. To get a closer look at Moscow it is necessary to get away from the tour group. In the warm months visitors May be Able to meet soviets in one of the Parks or on arbat Street the mile Long pedestrian shopping area and gathering spot for artists and Street vendors. Pushkin Square is also a traditional gathering spot especially for Stree Corner politicians. Wherever you go there Are men in uniform. It is a Stark reminder that this is the nation with the largest standing army in the world. The metro will take you anywhere in the City for 5 Kopecky less than a Penny at the special tourist Exchange rate. Taxis officially Cost 20 Kopecky a Kilometre but foreigners May not be Able to get the official rate. One night we paid 1.90 rubles 31 cents to go from the City Center to the hotel the next Day two different Drivers demanded 20 rubles $3.33 and $5, respectively for the same ride. One complaint about the tour was that things started too late in the morning. The bus usually left the hotel Between 9 30 and 10. Moscow beats you Down. It beats Down the kids in their Levis who dream of going to America. It beats Down the Middle aged workers with care worn faces and broken Down bodies who debate politics in Pushkin Square. It has already beaten Down the Block shaped old women with flesh sagging Over their Ankles who stand in line outside the Butcher shop on Gorky Street. By the third Day everybody in the group was ready to move on. The Prospect of Leningrad seemed like a vacation escape. Sgt. Kenneth Houle of fort Hood Texas summed it up Moscow is like a big Stone obelisk. You can go to see it it s impressive but you can t love  the Road to the Domestic Side of Sheremetyev Airport is very different from the Broad expanse of Leningrad Highway that leads into Moscow from the International Section. Instead of endless rows of apartment blocks it passes mile after mile of Farmland Fields of deep Brown Earth rough Hen wooden houses with sagging roofs. The look of poverty is unmistakable. The Domestic terminal was functional and clean but a bit shabby. After a delay of a Little less than an hour we boarded the plane to discover again that socialism does t always live up to its egalitarian principles. People who headed to the front of the plane were told that the first five rows of seats were reserved. About 15 minutes later after the worst crush was Over several Well dressed soviets filed aboard and began filling the empty seats. The practice of holding seats for communist party officials and High ranking military officers is a relic of the past that perestroika apparently has not changed. The difference Between Moscow and Leningrad is immediately evident at the Airport Leningrad is smaller cleaner More modern and More relaxed. Missing is the crush of the masses the Shab Biness. I tourist guide Irina Kabi Rova joined us in an Airport restaurant for Chicken Kiev. After the mystery continued on Page 12 stripes Magazine May 31, 1990