European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 13, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The and Shortoff it not some go for the Short look others prefer their skirts Long. Above a longer style in White Chiffon by Kart Lagerfeld for Chanel. By bernad1ne Morris new York times fashion is almost always in a state of flux so n is curious that hemlines on the runways have remained stable Tor about three years. With surprising unanimity leading designers in Europe and the United states have shown suits dresses and for fall Coats that Are no More than fingertip length. A. An occasional below the Knees style is seen on the runway and immediately dubbed dowdy. Yet women still turn up at lunches weddings and offices in calf length or longer skirts. It is after All the Era of personal preferences and irreverence toward fashion. The women say they choose the longer lengths because they feel More comfortable in them or theyse not crazy about their legs or. They Don t want to look too exposed or they Are too tall a or too Short a to Wear Short clothes  they say longer clothes Are More elegant than Short ones. A a a a a. Quot a a a. A a a but Wail. Something is stirring in the wings in the resort cruise collections that have been shown recently in new York there is usually one and sometimes a group of notable calf length styles. Some Are definitely for dinner and dancing offering an alternative to the Basic snug shift that was the leading after dark uniform last Winter and is Likely to continue to be. Some Are daytime styles like the Paisley wrapped style included in Jean Muir a resort collection it was one of several lower calf length styles she presented in pleated Georgette and Matte Jersey. Why the move to cover the Knees Quot i always think there should be a Choice a lots of lengths Quot said the designer in her studio in London. Quot what you Wear depends on what you feel. I wore a calf length skirt with b leather jacket recently to a dinner at the Royal College of Art and Felt very comfortable Quot i Don t think at this Point that women should Wear mid fashionable fade-0 by Mariann Caprino associated press Bull jeans Lor decades the uniform of rebels and conformists alike Are fading from the fashion forefront As aging baby Boomers opt for new a and More flattering a looks. To Pul it bluntly Quot As their pocketbooks. Have gotten Flicker so have their waists Quot said Alan Millstein publisher of the new York based newsletter fashion network report jeans Don t tit the lives of the Thirl something generation which is smarting to confront the flab of Middle age and lacing the tact that Quot Gravity is the reality Quot Millstein says. The biggest fans of jeans traditionally tight fitting youth oriented fare Are those Between the Ages of 14 and 24, a segment of the population that has been shrinking for the past decade said Dan Chew marketing manager for Levi Strauss amp co. Headquartered in san Francisco. Jean swear communications a new York based fashion Industry group said in a study released in june that total Domestic jeans sales in the United states dropped from a 1981 Peak of 502 million pairs to 387 million pairs in 1989 a Deborah Bronston. An analyst at Prudential Bache securities inc., estimates she number of jeans sold declined by 6 percent during the first three months of this year alone the decline of jeans has forced manufacturers to scramble for ways to protect their Domain often with other products ranging from children s sweat gear to sexy lingerie they have met with varying degrees of Success. Some have been wounded because they responded to changing tastes too late of Corpa Wyo Missig a. Jeans maker that markets Lee and wrangler brands and holds about 25 percent of the u s. Market recently announced it. Would close four jeans factories by september. A of chairman Lawrence r. Pugh spoke of a Quot continuing shortfall in jeans orders resulting from weak consumer demand Quot Levi Strauss on the other hand is Riding High. The company has dramatically improved safes and profitability since it became a private company five years ago in a debt financed takeover. The improvement has come from much More than just sales of the 501, its classic 5-pocketed Blue jeans Levi s created dockers a Cotton twill Pant for maturing Quot baby Boom men. As one of retailing s brightest Success stories sales of dockers went from $35 million in 1983 to a projected $500 million plus this year the product Lino has been expanded to include men s shirts and sweats As Well As Active Wear for a women and children. Quot dockers have helped offset the Basic sales softness in men s jeans Quot Chew said. For of however diversification has been far rockier. The company purchased a North Carolina maker of men s Cotton twill pants in 19b4 but closed the unit two years later of focus on its acquisition of Blue Bell holding co., Parent of wrangler jeans Jantzen swimwear and Jan sport sports clothes. The move shoved of ahead of Levi As the natron a biggest jeans maker. Quot when jeans Are booming every age group is wearing  said of s chief financial officer Jerry Johnson. But these Days he said there s Quot a sack of fashion ability attached to the  this year of has introduced a line of to shirts and seals under she Lee Label in an Effort to exploit its Best Brand name. So far sales Are going Quot very  a and the sweat shirts have sold out Johnson said Many experts said jeans makers Are hoping to strengthen their Dungaree business by exporting while interest May be waning in the United states jeans sell retain considerable allure in the soviet Union parts of Europe and the far East. -1 for a a maturing a baby Boom men Levi created dockers a Cotton twill Pant apr p Page 14 a a a the stars and stripes monday a$9ust 1