European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 31, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Carleton Jones Baltimore Sun i found it discouraging when the Burger vanquished the Sandwich As the lunch of the moment in the United states and was further depressed when pizza made the Burger take a Back seat. Now with dining hemmed in by All sorts of health overtones and dietary parameters could it be that the Sandwich actually has far More to offer than fast food fare it could indeed seem to be the answer. After All you could run out of things to adorn burgers or 10-inchers at your favorite pizza Stop. But the Sandwich would House almost anything on a hot or a cold Buffet and could Sene As a stand in for luscious no no s such As prime beef and imported soft ripening cheeses. My search for ultimate sandwiches Ted to labyrinths of neglected lore. What had happened in All these years to such classics As the Reuben and the Monte Cristo could the Dagwood with its image of overkill actually be Worth a revival then there were neglected ingredients. How about All those things that had emerged from the stigmas or blackouts of past years like canned Salmon and sardines Peanut butter bananas and avocados could such things Lead to an american Sandwich Renaissance perhaps. The Are some old fashioned rules that must be considered. Freshness is one. Stale bread is for puddings or for casserole Topping. Both hot and cold sandwiches Are guaranteed a certain panache if the bread is truly fresh but Day old bread slices better than absolutely oven fresh. Crisp ingredients a cold dried lettuce and Crunchy vegetables a Are also helpful. Though there Are certain sandwiches that make use of thin liquids in preparation under almost any condition a really soggy Sandwich is the pits. Wet creations certainly can be done however with baguettes or italian loaves decorated with sauteed onions for instance. Care should be exercised not to go overboard with popular new ingredients such As Sun dried tomatoes artichokes or avocados that May leak moisture and ruin the bread. If you have wet ingredients its a Good idea not to add them until the very last minute. As a first step for a Superb Sandwich try expanding your bread horizon Only a Little More than half the a Market today buys the Long anaemic looking Basic White loaf. You must venture into the areas of italian and French loaves of Brown Challah and pita breads and of Gutsy Pumpernickel for flavor variety As Well As More of a nutritional Jolt most of the time. If you happen to live in Europe particularly in Germany you la to pleasantly surprised by the vast array of bread choices in local supermarkets and bakeries. Go for pm pita pockets americans Are discovering will House almost anything that s Good eating. Pumpernickel is great for a Sandwich with Sweet ingredients or  with hefty flavor a Friendly Cook tells me that Challah while too spongy delicate for some of the heftier sandwiches makes the world s Best French Toast. Though variety and imagination Are at the soul of a great Sandwich there Are certain ground rules for instance the american Reuben Sandwich is unthinkable without jewish Rye As the foundation. The Monte Cristo a sort of aristocrat s pizza has a certain Cook it twice routine. You have options however. French bread May be a must for the proper croquet. Monsieur in France but a respectable version can be put together with american loaves. If my theory is that the meatloaf Sandwich is All but unrivalled for american Quot eat on the run Quot cuisine. Below is a classic recipe for a loaf borrowed from chef George Mardikian one of the founding fathers of what locals there Call san Francisco cuisine. Try it in a solid chilled and in floppy Sandwich suitable to transporting in neat briefcases. An Interior of sturdy firm left Over meatloaf can be an answer in constructing a glop free luncheon Sandwich for Busy commuter types make it with the maximum of meat a few thin slices of cheese Ai minimum of Mayo Crunchy lettuce and Pickle slices. You can always Surprise diners too by harking Back to that great american funny paper fantasy the triple Decker Dagwood. Vary the ingredients As you wish but there Are also other possibilities such As these a Quot no a a a. The glop free briefcase special the san Francisco chef George Mardikian concocted this dense toothsome meatloaf a half Century ago when his restaurant was a West Oast three Star  make it chill it slice it and put it in Between slices of your Best loaf of bread with Romaine or Boston lettuce and a Smidgen of Mayonnaise. In a Sandwich bag or Box it should be glop proof goodness. 2 pounds of meat beef or a mixture of beef and pork or use ground beef or pork 1 Large Bell Pepper finely chopped 1 Large onion finely chopped 1/i cup Parsley finely chopped 1 cup bread crumbs is cup Tomato juice2 eggs is Teaspoon allspice or cumin is Teaspoon powdered Mustard Salt and Pepper to taste 4 hard boiled eggs shelled put meat Pepper onions and Parsley through a meat grinder or food processor. Transfer to a Large mixing bowl or if using ground meat process Pepper onion and Parsley and mix in Large bowl with ground meat. Add bread and Alt other ingredients except eggs. Then break in the two raw eggs and Combine thoroughly. Form into a Roll putting hard boiled eggs in the Center of the meat. Roll it in greased paper making a package with both ends sealed. Put in a baking dish and bake for 1�?T/2 to 2 hours in a 325 f oven. Broiled Monte Cristo Barbara Grunes used this classic Sandwich in her lunch and Brunch Cookbook. 6 slices bread 6 slices cooked Turkey 6 slices cooked Ham 3 eggs 2 Tablespoons water 2 Tablespoons vegetable Oil 1 Tablespoon butter 1va cups shredded provolone cheese v2 cup milk a cup Mayonnaise 1/� Teaspoon Nutmeg Parsley Lemon  sandwiches each filled with 2 slices of Turkey and 2 slices of Ham. Beat eggs with water in a shallow bowl in a frying pan heat Oil and butter. Dip both sides of one Sandwich in eggs Fry both sides of the Sandwich until Golden Brown. Repeal with remaining sandwiches. Place sandwiches in a baking dish. In a Saucepan Combine cheese milk Mayonnaise and Nutmeg. Heat stirring constantly until cheese melts and mixture is smooth. Pour Over sandwiches continued on Pago 15 Friday August 31, 1990 the stars and stripes Page 13