European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 31, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                In Britain British War artist . Williamson sketched this action on the Western front. In the trenches exhibit recalls Western front of Wei by Graham Heathcote associated press guns rumble in the dark and tracer bullets Cut across no Man s land. Smoke hangs in the air mingled with the smells of cordite and frying Bacon. Quot i thought i was Back Quot said Tommy Keele a 96-year-old Veteran of world War i after walking through a museum exhibit that recreates the Trench warfare of the Western front. Then he added Quot the smell of death a that s not Here. That s the Only thing  Keene was among the guests at the unveiling of the Imperial War museum s latest attempt to convey the atmosphere of War to generations that have never known it. Britain is caught up in memories of world War h this year. Keele who fought in both wars said  recollections of world War i and the Slaughter of the trenches Are the More vivid. Quot two of my mates were buried under us by a Shell Quot he said Quot we dug them out horribly mangled and buried them along the Trench. As i pulled one he fell to pieces. The smell of death was All Over me and i could t eat or drink for three  a year ago the Imperial War museum opened a reconstruction of a world War ii air raid shelter. Quot now we have gone farther Back to what it was like for the infantry at the Battle of the Somme in 1916,&Quot said or. Alan Borg the museum s director. Quot we tried to get the Trench As right As we could. We found the Only machine left which could sew sandbags the Way they were made in that War because the method of sewing was changed in the 1920s. And we went to the old Somme Battlefield in France and brought Back two bags of Earth to get the texture right for the sides of our Trench Quot Baron Hermann von Richthofen the West German ambassador and a descendant of the German air Ace Manfred von Richthofen the Quot red Baron Quot also attended the opening ceremony. The Impact of a Battlefield is created with life size models of soldiers carrying real guns bayonets and Gas masks. There Are even stuffed rats. In the freezing Early hours of an october morning a Soldier in a Niche in the sandbagged Wall Fries Bacon Over a Brazier while a recorded Yorkshire voice reads a genuine letter from a Young Soldier to  father Quot you asked what life is like in the trenches. It is very Boring most of the time. We sleep in the Day As there s not much to be had at night. You share House and Home with rats and Burn lice out of the seat of your pants with  two sentries Light cigarettes. A Lewis gun fires tracers. A Shell  just exploded demolishing sandbags and pouring fumes into the narrow Trench. Artillery roars in the distance. Commands and cries ring out from a Dawn attack going Quot Over the  a Soldier with head and Chest wounds groans. In a dugout lie relics from the Western front barbed wire cutters Gas masks a rattle to warn of a Poison Gas attack ammunition boxes a sniper shield a Windup phonograph canned milk and postcards. Four periscopes show no Man s land from 100 Yards to two Miles in a Vista created from contemporary photographs. Cyril Dennys 93, fought in the 1917 Battle of pass Hendele. He recalled that 65,000 tons of shells were fired in 17 Days to soften up the enemy and in the process also destroyed the drainage system of the level flemish Plain. The attack began and raged for weeks in pitiless rain men drowned in the mud. Britain lost 300,000 dead. Visitors leaving the Trench see a display Case containing the four pencilled sheets of the last letter to  wife Lizzie from pvt. Jack Mudd of the London regiment and the red poppy he sent Home from a Flanders Battlefield. He put nine crosses for kisses after  signature. Quot god bless you and my children and May he soon Send me Back to those i love is the wish of your faithful husband Jack Quot is the last sentence of the letter. Mudd died at Ypres on oct. 26/1917.endless Stream of tourists wearing out British Welcome by Marcus Eliason associated press the islanders Are restless. Hordes of tourists Are pouring into their hallowed sanctuaries intruding upon their ancient ways corrupting them with Cash relentlessly snapping their photographs. It sounds like a familiar lament from some exotic Corner of the old Empire but these islanders Are the modern Day British. Many of them Aie fed up with the More than 17 million tourists who pass through their Small and crowded realm each year. The problem  become serious enough to Merit a government task Force and the English tourist Board  20 tips tur visitors to urge visitors to behave themselves. Quot always remember you Are the guest show consideration for residents and their environment Quot the leaflet begins. Quot respect local Laws and  it advises tourists not to photograph the locals without permission to refrain irom touching valuable1 tapestries vases and paintings to avoid wearing High heeled shoes in historic buildings and to dress appropriately in holy places. Quot we Don t want to nag Quot said William Davis the chairman of the tourist Board. But some of the tips have a distinctly Nann Yish tone. Tourists Are advised to say please and thank you and when complaining to Quot do it  24 stripes Magazine a Quot Don t argue with staff who seek to enforce rules it says. Quot they Are Only doing their jobs. Don t push shove or jump queues Quot a the latter a British ism for cutting in line. Davis says the leaflet also applies to Domestic tourists and that no one meant to single out foreigners As the sole offenders. The brochure comes at a time of heated debate about whether foreign tourism is Good for the nation. It does generate $42 billion a year and it employs 1.5 million people making it a prime Money earner As heavy Industry declines. It is spreading Well beyond the familiar landmarks of London too. Foreign tourism in Oxford Rose 44 percent Between 1983 and 1988. Bath recorded a 38 percent increase York and Canterbury 33 percent. Internal tourism measured by the 109 million one overnight hotel stays in 1989, also is a vast Industry. Some of the people under invasion Are protesting and this  prompted the government to announce a Tak Force to identify problem areas. Quot i travel around the country a lot and have noticed a growing tension about tourism and we Are seeking a Way of heading off a backlash which could damage the entire Industry Quot said Ivor Manley who Heads the task Force. Quot in some areas like Portsmouth or Bradford a museum is welcomed As a badge of civic Pride but in others such a plan would cause resentment. They do not want tourists in their town and will not build for  officials say they want to encourage the spread of tourism to less familiar territory such As Liverpool or the Romney marshes of Kent county. Rather than head straight for Westminster Abbey they suggest How about seeing the victorian Cotton Mills of Lancashire or going Down into a Yorkshire Coal mine Davis opposes Quot the growing tendency to use the word tourist As a term of  phrases such As Quot tourism plague Quot and Quot hordes Quot he said Are Quot totally and utterly inappropriate to describe visitors whom we ought to be making feel Welcome in this  lately arguments Are being heard that tourism is More trouble than it s Worth. Quot tourist coaches congest the Central area and Park with impunity Quot Alfred Sherman wrote in the sunday Telegraph. Quot Public buildings Are disfigured by displays of Gim crack souvenirs. The tawdry nightlife which mass tourism evokes makes our City centers and suburbs even More  the times of London concluded that the Only solution is to ration tourism by making the main attractions Quot charge prices High enough to deter at least some potential  it is Quot an uncongenial concept Quot the paper admitted Quot yet both elitists and populists must accept that Only some form of rationing can avoid the destruction of places that All the world wants to