European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - November 26, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Double breasted myths by Catherine Cook Baltimore Sun for Many american men the double breasted suit is a matter of such mystery and confusion that that they would just As soon leave it alone until the fad passes. But the double breasted suit is shaping up to be More than one of fashions fleeting whims. It has been nearly five years since the double breasted suit began to re emerge in America As the stylish Many a Choice and its popularity shows no signs of abating. With double breasted suits representing anywhere from 40 percent to 80 percent of the suit inventory at Many specially stores in the United states it is Worth taking a closer look at some of the most popular myths surrounding what insiders refer to As .  myth no. 1. Double breasted suits Are just a fad that will quickly go out of style. According to Tony Barbato a spokesman for hamburgers men s store in Baltimore a in past fashion cycles most recently the late �?T70sdouble breasted suits were a fad. It would last one or two seasons and make up maybe 5 percent or 10 percent of a specially store s suits Quot the current Cycle is showing the kind of popularity last seen in the �?T50s, he says and while Quot nothing a Ever permanent i Don t see it diminishing at All in the next year or  modern men Are also extending the life of the garment by no longer observing that old tradition that reserved double breasted suits for Winter Wear. Quot with the More fashion conscious seasonality does no to have As much to do with what a Man chooses to Wear As having the right look and the kind of elegance and sophistication they want to show a he says. Myth no. 2. A double breasted suit must always be worn buttoned up. Quot in a wearing a double breasted suit right now and its not buttoned up a in fact i never Button it up Quot says Marc Sklar an always elegantly dressed menswear retailer in the Baltimore area. Quot today a  s Are Cut very different from the ones in the �?T50s, so you have a Choice now Quot Sklar says. Quot of course you can Button it up if you want to but if you done to it still looks just As neat As a single breasted because there s less Flap Over of fabric in a Well tailored and Well balanced suit than there used to  the front Flap on the old suits would be fastened at least an Inch to an Inch and a half farther around the Middle than the updated models. Myth no. 3. Short heavy men must never Wear them. Menswear expert Bruce Boyer addresses the subject of Stocky men in his new Book eminently suitable w. W. Norton amp co. 1990. While he generally advises heavy men against wearing excess material he makes one important exception Quot there is still something of a general feeling that a heavier Man should never Wear a double breasted jacket. Totally false. A heavier Man can indeed Wear such a jacket and often looks the better for it because even though there is that extra Flap of cloth which is a liability the double breast covers a prominent paunch and with its asymmetrical line distracts the Eye away from the Center of the Torso a real asset. The single breasted jacket tends to separate and often gape directly Over the paunch and thus exposes and Calls attention to the very aspect one wants to  myth no. 4. They make one look Stuffy and up tight and Are Only suitable for formal occasions. Old time double breasted suits were very stiff and structured but the newest models have a much easier fit and proportion and Are Cut of softer fabric says Barbato of hamburgers. Quot the trousers Are usually pleated and More fully proportioned in the leg and the jacket is a Little broader softer and much More  Are a seasonal Way to Send a message to some very special individuals in your Community who deserve a note of thanks for a Job Well done to family and friends stationed throughout the european command and the persian Gulf and to the loved ones waiting Back Home. Holiday greetings will appear in a special four Page insert on sat., december 22 for Germany and the Benelux countries and mon., december 24 for All other areas. To place a greeting write your message of 25 words or less. You May use a Plain piece of paper or use our easy to use order form found in the classified pages of stripes Magazine and to plus Magazine. The Price for messages received from adults is $6.50 from children under 16 is $3.25. Add 10<t per line for longer messages. An optional headline costs $5 extra. Make the Check or Money order do not Send Cash please payable in . Dollars to stars amp stripes fund ecn-874. Mail your messaged and payment to stars amp stripes atm Holiday greetings a Box 266, Apo 09211-4211.the deadline for messages to be received at stars and stripes is Friday december 14 monday november 26, 1990 the stars and stripes a a a Page 17