European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 23, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse Alia Italiana by Leah Larkin. Staff writer Guinea fowl a not an everyday item in most commissaries. And where can you get veto i Maile veil of pork ? not to worry assured the smiling chef Butcher shops will have it. And if Guinea fowl Are not common in the poultry Section of your neighbourhood Market Chicken or Duck will do. Master chef Rossano Boscolo. Was in the midst of preparing version two of a breast of Guinea fowl sauteed in cabernet Quot for a group of american Hobby Cooks attending a three Day cooking school near Venice Italy. He carefully held up a thin veil of Gauze then delicately wrapped it around the slices of breast meat that had been covered with a vegetable Purde and a spinach Leaf. Quot can you use panty Hose instead of the veil Quot one member of the class asked. That brought a loud laugh and a firm Quot no Quot from the professional Cook who started working in his fathers restaurant at the age of 10. The mysterious veil he explained is the Quot Omentum Quot which covers the abdominal organs. Quot i just dreamed up this creation Guinea Hen #2 last night Quot he said. It was More than his use of bizarre ingredients that fascinated the group of 44 dilettante Cooks. The Jolly fun Loving chef kept them captivated with his Mastery of the knife the whisk the frying pan. He was fast with food sometimes preparing two or three dishes simultaneously. A rapid squeeze of liver Pate on bread rounds Lor Cristini with Chicken liver Pate was followed by a Quick glance in he oven to Check on the Guinea fowl oops time to add some wine then on to the mixer to get started on amaretto cakes. Often he d dip his Finger in his creations to get a taste. Quot Buono Quot always the Middle Finger Quot he pointed out. He keeps the Index Finger dry for pinching Salt. It is obvious from his appearance a pleasantly round a As Well As the Way he handles the ingredients a with respect a that this Maestro loves both preparing food then enjoying the fruits of his labor. Boscolo a real Forte is pastry. While his performance with the fowl and veil was impressive his show with the decorative arts of desserts was downright spectacular. For the finale of the course he Quot blew Quot caramelized sugar to fashion a Swan. It s a skill much like the Glass blowing that has brought Fame and Fortune 1o the masters of this Art in nearby Murano. The Only drawback to the Boscolo cooking show was a Lack of audience participation. Too Many students and too Little space made hands on experience almost impossible. This was a real disappointment for Helen Riley a science teacher from the ludwigs Burg Middle school in Germany who came prepared with her apron. At one Point she could sit still no longer. She jumped up and got in on the action. Quot let me do that Quot she ordered Boscolo As she took his spoon and took Over stirring a sauce. Riley was especially delighted with one lip she picked up from the chef a pounding garlic cloves with the Flat end of a knife or Cleaver to loosen the skin which then easily slides off. The fort Worth Texas native often prepares guacamole for her guests. Quot i spend hours and hours skinning those Little do toppers. Meanwhile i could be out drink margaritas a amps photos by Leah Larkin tips of the Trade with the guests Quot she said in a voice thick with tha twang of her native state. Despite the Lack of Active involvement the students had no trouble observing their professor. Their classroom was professional Complete with a Large overhead Mirror. The students who usually fill the classroom located in a hotel owned by Boscolo Are professional chefs aspiring to improve their skills. While the americans were not professionals they had a serious interest in cuisine. Their lunchtime conversations were devoted to such topics As pastas and pots cookbooks and sauces. Quot what did he say to do about a sauce that s too Runny Quot someone asked during a lunch following a morning classroom session. Dale Ehrhardt a teacher at Rainbow elementary school in Ansbach Germany had the answer. Quot add cheese. And if it s too dry add a bit of water from the Ehrhardt who gives cooking lessons in her Home in the evening had More helpful information to pass on to her classmates. She told them about her favorite cooking videos and she highly recommended Julia child cookbooks. Bob Bahr a physical therapist with the 130th station Hospital in Heidelberg raved about a Bookstore in Frankfurt that has a Quot terrific selection of cookbooks in Bob Bransford wanted to know where he could buy Copper pots. The social worker from Frankfurt was pleased to learn that the Canadian pm carries a Good want All cooking and no play. Ample time was provided during the course for exploring Venice and its canals As Well As other nearby attractions. Chet Boscolo had to step aside and let Helen Riley a teacher from ludwigs Burg stir the polenta. Venetian cooking was the theme of lire course but Many of the dishes prepared can be found in other parts of Italy. Venice is on the coast but also near the mountains. Seafood and game play an important role in the cuisine of the area. And then there s polenta. This Northern italian favorite is a Cornmeal Mush often prepared with other ingredients such As shrimp and served instead of a pasta. Butter rather than Olive Oil used to be a major ingredient in Northern italian cuisine. But with All the fats and health Many chefs in the area Are beginning to use less butter and More Oil. Whether in Venice or Vienna All Chels have their own secrets and shortcuts tips and tricks. Following Are some helpful hints for mastering to Cucina Italiana. A when a recipe Calls Tor sauteing minced garlic with other ingredients add the garlic last and saute briefly otherwise much of the flavor will be lost. A italians always keep a Batch of Tomato sauce on hand. See recipe below for a simple easy tasty version. Do not cover it while cooking. Don t Cook it. Or any sauce Wilh the exception of those containing meat for a Long time a when cooking pasta and a sauce before serving add the sauce to the drained pasta and reheat together in one pot. A a always use the Best Quality Olive Oil preferably extra Virgin first pressing of the olives. Although it was cooking classes a not sightseeing a that brought this group to Italy there was time for touring. Afternoons were free for exploring nearby Venice. There was an organized excursion to the islands of Murano and Burano where glassware and handmade tablecloths were popular purchases. The cooking course As Well As similar ones held in other locations in Italy is the brainchild of Larry and. Carol Pisoni. Pisoni an italian from Trento and his american wife Carol have been organizing cooking schools in Italy for the past 13 years. Carol does the translating As the chefs Cook and explain in their native language. The Kisonis have a devoted following. Of the 44 Hobby Cooks learning Cucina creative Veneziana creative venetian cooking18 had previously attended one of their courses. Among the second timers were Gino and Debbi Disgrazzi both teachers in Ansbach. Quot its wonderful. It s the Best vacation in be had in Europe Quot said Gino. Ehrhardt from Ansbach had taken a Pisoni course in Trento. Quot i love these courses. Larry and Carol Are wonderful Quot she said. A you never Stop learning. I use All the Price Lor the three Day course in venetian cooking was $356 including three nights hotel accommodation with two meals per Day nine hours of cooking instruction and recipe Booklet. Another cooking class at this location is scheduled oct.3-6. There Are still openings Tor a course Over labor Day weekend aug. 30-sept. 2, $292, at the hotel Solaria in Malleva in the Dolomite mountains near the ski resort of Madonna i Campiglio. A special course for weight conscious gourmets will be offered Over the thanksgiving Holiday in Riva on the snores of Lake Garda. For details As Well As information on other future courses Contact Larry Pisoni Villa Picarel 38070 Tezzano Trento Haly Tel. 0461-864005 from Germany 0039-461-864005. The following Are among the recipes Boscolo prepared during the cooking course near Venice. The measurements Are in Grams. Cups with Gram and liter measurements for both dry and liquid ingredients Are available in european department stores. In some cases no precise amounts Are Given. As Carol Pisoni said Quot italians hate to in these cases add amounts to taste or As needed. Breast of Guinea fowl sauteed in cabernet 4 breasts of Guinea fowl Salt and Pepper to taste ingredients for the drippings Guinea fowl carcass vegetable Oil Carrot celery and onion chopped Rosemary flour red cabernet wine beef Bouillon granules 250 Grams of butter a Chicken or Duck May be substituted i you have the whole Bird Cut off the breast leaving the Ivings. The carcass will be used for the sauce. Thighs can be roasted separately but will not be used m this recipe. Bro a the fowl breasts skin Side Down for about 5 turn them and continue cooking until done k11 ins 1- rom 1 111 Boscolo Salt and Pepper to taste. Sprinkle carcass with crushed dried Rosemary and Olive Oil to keep it from drying out. Roast it with vegetables in a 390-degree oven for 45 minutes to an hour until Well browned. Baste frequently with the wine. Remove from oven and Strain mixture. Sprinkle strained drippings with flour add More wine and stir. Sprinkle with Bouillon granules and continue stirring until thickened. Whisk in butter and serve with fowl. Serves four. Legato Alia Veneziana liver venetian style 400 Grams veal liver Cut into thin slices 400 Grams of minced onion 100 Grams of butter 100 Grams of dry White wine 30 Grams of wine vinegar Salt and Pepper saute the onion in the butter slowly for 15 minutes uncovered for about 7 or 8 minutes then covered. Uncover and add liver pieces and saute. Sprinkle with wine and vinegar. Add Salt and Pepper to taste. Simmer Lor another 15 minutes then serve. For a touch of class add a splash of Brandy to the pan just before serving but let it Cook Long enough to evaporate. Serves four. Note. Do not overcook liver. It should be Pink in the Middle simple Tomato sauce 400 to 500 Grams canned tomatoes or Tomato pulp Olive Oil i onion minced v2 garlic Clove minced i stalk celery minced Small Carrot minced several leaves of fresh Basil chopped Salt and Pepper saute vegetables in Olive Oil. Add tomatoes Basil Salt and Pepper. Cook uncovered for 5 minutes in a Large pan. Use As a sauce Lor pasta or in any recipe that Calls for Tomato sauce. Can be kept Frozen for later use eggplant Tomato sauce this recipe gets Exra High Marks 1 eggplant Oliva Oil flour Tomato sauce see above Basil oregano Peel eggplant and Cul into cubes spread hour on a Flat surface and coat cubes Saule briefly in a Bil of Olive Oil then bake for 10 minutes in a 350-degree oven add. Eggplant cubes to Tomalo sauce taste for seasoning Sprinkle sauce with Tresh minced Basil and dried oregano. Heat 2 Tablespoons of Olive Oil and Sprinkle this on top of the herbs serve with pasta serves four Page 14 a the stars and stripes Friday August 23, 1991 the stars and stripes a Page 15
