European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 31, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The apse of the Abbey Church glows in the morning sunlight monastery of it nce Valles stopping Point for pilgrims and tourist by Norm Zeigler travel outdoor writer above the monastery of Roncesvalles sheep Graze in Mountain Meadows. Ancient Beech forests Sway in the wind that sweeps Over the pyrenees from France. Against this backdrop of spectacular natural Beauty the monastery is a mundane human edifice. Its unassuming Stone Walls and Metal roof Are not even very attractive. But it is not for its architectural Beauty that Roncesvalles is renowned. Its history and mystique Are the main attractions. The site is associated with the Best and worst of human Endeavor. It was within the Lovely forested confines of Roncesvalles pass puerto de Baneta that vengeful basques slaughtered the rear guard of Charlemagne s army As it was returning to France inspiring the medieval French epic poem song of Roland. Later an unending procession of pilgrims streamed through the pass on the Long trek to or from the shrine at Santiago de Compostella in Spain s Western Galicia Region. Roncesvalles became one of the most important Way stations along the Way for the hungry the weary and the infirm. Today the pilgrims Way is c-135, one of the few Cross Border Auto routes in the pyrenees. Instead of a Haven for pilgrims the monastery about two Miles North of the town of Burguete is a popular Stopover Point for bus and Auto tourists As Well As those travelling by foot or Bike. Constructed Over several centuries and including two churches an augustinian Abbey and a museum Roncesvalles is something of an architectural Hodgepodge. Perhaps the least impressive of its structural elements is the tiny holy ghost pilgrimage Church a Gray nondescript Stone building on the Edge of the Road. But its negligible visual Impact belies the Church s religious and historical significance. It dates most recently to the 12th Century and was reputedly originally commissioned by Charlemagne As a crypt and Monument for the fallen Roland. At the other end of the spectrum is the 13th-Century Abbey Church whose Interior has the most stunning natural illumination of any building i have seen. The Bottom Row of windows i i the apse Are Large a about 3 feet by 4 feet a and glazed with Milky White Glass. During afternoons or on Cloudy Days the windows permit a Good amount of Light. But mornings when the Sun climbs above the mountains they come ablaze with an incandescent glow like a panel of 10,000-Watt bulbs. The whole effect obviously intentional is to backlight the altar and suffuse the whole Interior of the apse with a yellow Gold fireball of Light. The Church s spare gothic romanesque Interior contains a wooden statue of the Virgin Mary dating to the 1200s. Another interesting historical sidelight is the sarcophagus of King Sancho Al Fuerte ruler of the Basque kingdom of Navarre in the Early 13th Century. Because of its Fountain and greenery the most attractive part of the Roncesvalles Complex is the courtyard near the Abbey Church. One Large Hall within the Complex contains the Treasury museum displaying antiquities treasures and relics. The exhibit includes a collection of roman palestinian and other ancient coins. Also on display Are bibles dating to the 13th Century religious artwork chalices and precious Reli quaries. Also at Roncesvalles Are a gift shop a restaurant and a pension. The pension la Posada charges 4,000 pesetas about $37 for a double room in High season. Half Board costs an additional 1,700 pesetas $16. Good accommodations Are also available in nearby Burguete