European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - January 9, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Susan Sobin Ravenna has settled Down quite a bit in the last 1,000 years but not All of its chaotic past has disappeared. And that s Good news for tourists and Art lovers alike. A walk through this italian City leads through 15 centuries of history to the final Days of the roman Empire and its desperate Battle with invading armies. But despite the fact that it has some of Italy s. Greatest Art Ravenna attracts far fewer tourists than Rome Florence or Venice a making it possible to see the works without the Bone crushing crowds of those three cities. Back in the fifth Century Ravenna was one of two capitals of the roman Empire which at its height had extended from Britain to Egypt and from the Atlantic Ocean to the Caspian sea North of Iran. Already a major Trade Center connecting Europe with the East Ravenna became More influential than Rome and shared sovereignty Only with the Eastern capital constantinople Istanbul. Ravenna s prominence spanned centuries. Within its ancient Stone Gates you la find 1,500-year-old byzantine monuments still glittering with original mosaics the ruins of an eighth Century Palace the simple Marble Tomb of the 14th-Century italian poet Dante and a 500-year-old venetian style town Square. Ravenna is perfect for ambling. At dusk locals gather at the venetian Square Piazza Del Popolo to stroll among the archways and linger in cafes. In the tangle of Cobblestone streets radiating from the Square Are restaurants and quiet neighbourhood bars. During the Day the cloistered lawns and tranquil Parks that Dot the City make Good picnic spots. The Farmers Market a couple blocks from the Piazza Del Popolo has a grand assortment of local foods and wines. It s open weekdays and saturday mornings but it is for mosaics that Ravenna is Best known. Saints and Royalty painstakingly assembled from tiny Glass tiles illuminate the Walls inside its oldest buildings. They form a stunning pictorial history not Only of Early Christian thought but also of the turbulent forces that Tore apart Rome s Domain. The most spectacular Are in the mausoleum of Galla Placidia and in the Basilicas churches san Vitale san Apollinare Nuovo and san Apollinare in Classe. A ticket covering admission to All these mosaics can be purchased upon entering any of the buildings for about 10,000 lire about $8.70. Admission is free at san Apollinare in Classe located just outside the City. Because the mosaics illumination depends on natural Light you la get the Best View at midday when the sunlight is brightest. Binoculars Are helpful. Electric lights illuminate Small areas the machines Cost 200 lire about 18 cents for two minutes. A detailed City map and sightseeing suggestions Are available at Ravenna s tourist office two blocks Northwest of the Piazza Del Popolo at the Corner of via Salara and via san Vitale. It is a Good place to Start a walking tour of the City s main sights. From the tourist office walk one Block West on via san Vitale and turn right onto via Galla Placidia to reach one of Ravenna s oldest monuments the mausoleum of Galla Placidia. Galla was an Empress who had Learned about Rome s political problems the hard Way the younger Stepsister of Ravenna s first resident emperor was kidnapped by goths who attacked Rome in 410. Galla a 20-year-old Beauty was forced to marry the gothic King and wander with the tribe. She saw much of Rome s Gold continued on Page 10 9 the Basilica of san Vitale has an opulent Interior and some of Ravenna s most spectacular mosaics. Flip file it. A a mtg la the Serene portrait of Theodora belies her Lively past. Avenna s chaotic past reflected in aits mosaics january 9, 1992 stripes Magazine 9