European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - February 6, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse Ideal Hunt ends in a feast by Nelson Bryant the new York times to this Hunter at least the Chase and the kill is a farce unless linked with the feast. Ideally you should learn to Cook your own game Birds and animals yourself just As you should skin and Cut up your own Deer and Pluck your own ducks unless circumstances make it impossible. Taking part in every step of the ritual helps instill a proper reverence for that which has been slain it generates the same intimacy a impossible to feel at a supermarket counter a you experience when harvesting vegetables from a backyard Garden. In general the game you have shot should go into the Freezer As soon As possible. Until a few decades ago it was widely believed that a Deer should be Hung in a cooler or woodshed for a week or so for the meat to become As tender and flavorful As possible before being transformed into steaks roasts and chops. This approach is perfectly sound if the temperature inside the shed or cooler does t get much above the freezing Mark but if in t necessary. Both Venison and beef will age when Frozen solid. When i was a lad an old Hunter Down the Road Hung his ducks by their Bills on the North Side of his Gray shingled barn. They were ready to eat he said when they fell to the ground. As impressionable As i was i rejected his advice and have always picked and gutted my Birds As soon As possible after shooting them. 1 overcooking is the single most common violation of Venison and waterfowl. If you Are one of those who must have meat cooked until All traces of Pink Are removed you had Best focus on chickens and pigs. Even those who prefer their beef rare can get some enjoyment from a Well done roast or Steak. Not so with Venison which becomes Tough and dry when cooked beyond medium rare. Venison is not unlike beef striated with fat. You will often find an exterior layer of fat on Venison however and All of it should be removed. If it is left on during cooking it produces a badly Flavoured tallow like substance. Venison roasts should be liberally larded with Salt pork or beef fat. If you Don t have a Landing Needle make incisions with a knife. A slice of garlic Clove should also go into each incision. Several thin strips of Salt pork can also be fastened to the top of the roast with toothpicks. Sprinkle Salt Pepper and at least a Tablespoon of powdered Rosemary or crushed Rosemary leaves Over the roast and put it in a shallow pan to which a cup of beef Bouillon has been added. For a rare roast figure about 15 minutes to the Pound at 350 degrees. The roast should be basted several times during cooking and you May want to add another cup of Bouillon at some Point. Keep the roast warm while making a Gravy thickened with flour from the pan drippings. Venison conceals As it cools so it must be served hot. Heat the plates and the serving Platter Herd your guests to the table and carve the roast quickly. When i Cut up a Deer i usually make the steaks from loin or Rump about three quarters of an Inch thick and trim All fat from Good Way to Cook such steaks is to dust Tjem with Salt and Pepper Brush them with Bacon fat and put them in a wire Grill that is Laid directly on glowing Hardwood coals in fireplace or Wood stove. I like them truly rare which Means about two minutes of cooking on each Side. Again As with Venison roasts they should be served on plates that Are hot. The meat of the red Deer is popular table fare in Europe. It becomes Tough if overcooked. Game Birds such As the White fronted geese below Are High in protein and Low in fat. I roast Birds the size of Black ducks or mallards for 15 minutes at 450 degrees. If this is too rare for you lower the heat to 350 after the first 15 minutes and continue cooking. Don to however let the total oven time go Muc h beyond a half hour or you will ruin the Bird. Before the ducks go into the oven boil their hearts livers and gizzards in Chicken Bouillon. When they Are cooked through Dice them Fine and dump them into the roasting pan after the ducks Are taken out. The liquid Bouillon and essence e old a which ire in the pan a perhaps darkened with a Teaspoon of Kite Hen bouquet plus the giblets will enhance the flavor of the wild Rice that should accompany the repast. You can thicken this Gravy with flour if you wish but it in t necessary. There Are several excellent Sweet sour sauces for wild Duck but a Tablespoon of Beach Plum Jelly accompanying each serving of rare breast meat will accomplish the same end. If you Art not fortunate enough to have Beach Plum Jelly currant Jelly is an adequate substitute. The legs of ducks cooked for less than a half hour Are too Tough to be eaten but Don t let that trouble you. They la contribute to a Duck soup. Two Black ducks or two mallards will make a splendid soup for four or five people and it s a sin to let any edible portions of such wonderful Birds go to waste. Dice two medium sized onions and three stalks of celery and saute in butter in a Large pot. Put the Duck t Are asses in the pot add enough water to cover them plus a half Teaspoon each of thyme and Marjoram a dash of Salt and Pepper three thic k slices of Ginger Root and three Bay leaves. Simmer under a lid until the meat easily separates from the hones. Allow the pot s i contents to i Hill until the Tat has congealed on the Surat e and i an be removed. Separate the meat from the Bones and discard the latter plus All pier is of skin and apples. Add two sliced carrots and two sliced parsnips to the pot plus half a cup of Rice and simmer until the Rice is done. Serve with thick chunks of sourdough bread and a tossed salad and give thanks to the gods of the Hunt. A amps Kan George two exceptions to the rare Venison rules Are stews and spareribs. Deer ribs Are discarded by Many Hunters but they Are marvellously tasty when barbecued. Wild ducks also become dry and Tough if roasted beyond medium rare. After dusting them with Salt and Pepper and rubbing them with butter i fill the body cavities with pieces of apples. February 6, 1992 stripes Magazine 9
