European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - May 7, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                American expatriate has seen a lot of change in Spain by Ron Jensen staff writer Madrid in 1992 is not the same Madrid that Peter Besas eyes first focused on in 1956. Quot Europe in those Days was like another world. It was still recovering from the second world War Quot recalls Besas. Quot Spain was very poor. They were still pumping Gas by hand. No one used  Besas then a Young american Vagabond in Europe bored with the study of engineering in the states had the Only car on the Block where he lived in Madrid. From his apartment window he looked out on a Meadow of grazing sheep. Now Besas 59, is the Madrid Bureau chief for variety the show business newspaper. And Madrid is crowded with cars a Lively modern City of 3v2 million people. That Meadow Long ago disappeared under Concrete. And butter As is nearly everything else is in abundance. Quot it s certainly changed Quot says Besas. Besas returned to the states after 1956, but the allure of Europe brought the new yorker Back permanently in 1965. Quot i just sort of got fed up with the rat race in new York Quot he says while settled in his apartment atop a six floor building. Quot my dream had always been to be a working writer like Somerset maugham living on the riveria surrounded by witty  he lived for a time in Paris with a Spanish Girlfriend. But when Job prospects turned sour the two married and moved to Spain. Quot nobody in his right mind came to work in Spain in a amps Ron Jenson Peter Besas says Spain is no longer the third rate country it was under dictator Francisco Franco. Those Days because the wages were so Low Quot he recalls. This was the time of Gen. Francisco Franco the fascist dictator who ruled Spain with an unyielding hand from 1939 until his death in 1975. Quot anybody who spoke English was a rarity in those Days Quot Besas recalls. That fact helped him work for the English language guidepost a publication of happenings in Madrid. He worked for the National radio of Spain. He helped revise travel guides of Spain published by Fodor and Frommer. In 1970, he landed the Job with variety and in 1975, it became his full time Pursuit. Also that year Franco died. Quot it s just turned around Quot Besas says of life in Spain. Quot it s gone from one extreme to  during Franco s crushing Rule there was no crime no drugs and no taxes but plenty of censorship illegal mailings torture and fear. Spain was Besas explains Quot a Small third rate backward country with All the pros and cons that  spaniards were not All that taken with work during Franco s Days. They would wander to their jobs about 10 ., take time for a siesta later in the Day and party All night. Besas says the cafes and bars were filled every evening. But with Franco s death came change. In the More lenient garb of Freedom drugs and crime Are More prevalent. Censorship has been abolished. Individual liberties Prosper. The rhythm of the City has changed Besas says. The old work schedule is on the Way out. Quot you go downtown at 8  And you la see massive traffic jams. Quot by Midnight there Are not Many people out. On weekends they make up for it. Tonight is saturday. You go out at 3  And there will be traffic jams Quot he says. Quot it s hard for someone to realize who has t seen the old Madrid what has happened in the last two  Besas has adapted and been Able to accomplish his dream of writing. Besides his work for variety he wrote in 1985 behind the Spanish Lens a history of Spain s film Industry. He is also the author of two self published books strange vignettes of old Madrid and the written Road to Spain. The 27 years in Spain have Given Besas roots there. His 22-year-old son a budding filmmaker grew up in Spain and his wife died there a few years ago. Now America seems farther and farther away although he makes a handful of visits for business each year. Quot when i see an old film made in the 50s or 60s, that s the America i left Quot he says. Quot but that America does t exist anymore. Quot i do enjoy going Back. But when i m there five or six weeks it s Nice to come Back to Madrid Quot there is for Besas the inherent dichotomy of being an expatriate. Quot i go there to the states and i feel myself an outsider Quot he says. Quot but i feel myself an outsider Here because no matter How Long i live Here i la never be  a Matador gets help with his outfit before going out to face the Bull. At right a Young Man rests in the Shade of a Monument at Al Retiro s Large Lake. A amps photos by Jim Derheims amps May 7, 1992 stripes Magazine 5