European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - May 7, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Romanian monasteries a link to the past by Bill Snead the Washington Post life goes on behind the Walls of Romania s Many monasteries much As it has for centuries. Years of a communist government a riotous upheaval that toppled a dictator and the country s current economic chaos seem to have had Little effect on those living in the quiet sanctuaries. A visit to one is like stepping into the past. The Cald Alusani monastery about 30 Miles from the capital of Bucharest sits alone at the end of a dirt Road. It is surrounded by Gray Walls that match a Dull romanian sky. Except for the occasional sound of a wandering cow s Bell or the firm closing of a sagging door it s a gentle contrast to the adversity going on in much of the Balkans. The dining room where about 30 Semi retired monks take their meals is lined with benches and oilcloth covered tables. When darkness comes it is lit with two single Light bulbs. A warm glow radiates from an enormous mural of Jesus seated at a table behind a bowl and a wineglass with disciples at either Side. A Small sign under the painting asks for quiet. In the Kitchen sister Paisa gently chops onions for an ongoing pot of soup. Behind her looms an enormous Coo stove. It s an antique creation of tiles and Metal blackened by a Century of fire huge kettles and Elbow grease. The Kitchen staff is like those at Romania s other monasteries whether they Are training places for men or women most of the kitchens Are staffed by nuns. This holds True for the neat monastery which hovers on the Southern Edge of Transylvania. The original was built by Stefan the great in 1487 As a Celebration of one of his Battlefield victories. Marauding armies from various countries did their versions of remodelling from time to time As they passed through the area. The cavernous Kitchen could pass for a piece of Stefan s work. The soot blackened ceiling is 50 feet High and functions As a Chimney. A Novice Monk arrives each morning at 5 to fire up the stove which looks like an original fixture. It s huge the size of a car it s one big hot plate. The Kitchen is staffed by five nuns and originally produced enough meals for More than 800 monks. Now they feed about 60. The first nun comes in at 6 . With two Breaks for morning and evening prayers her workday will end at 10 . Wrapped in skirts an apron and two scarves to fend off the cold she silently goes about her work. Within an hour eight huge kettles with Hubcap sized lids Are filling the room with steam and smells that remind one of How Long it has been Between meals. Meat is never on the menu. This is the Case in most Eastern orthodox monasteries. There is no refrigeration Only caves to store the Staples of cabbage potatoes and. Onions. Fish is an occasional treat that the monks and parishioners net from a nearby River. From Early morning on monks Drift into the Kitchen to sniff at the contents of a dented pot. Their expressions vary from sanctimonious to a Grin but the Cooks expressions Only change from dead serious to tolerant. Before the lunchtime Bell rings other nuns come in to fill bowls with bean soup and Load plates with cabbage Rolls. Breads Are baked in another Section of the darkened Kitchen Complex. Desserts appear Only on special holidays. Surrounded by the Carpathian mountains the Suc Evita monastery sits in a postcard setting about 12v2 Miles from the Northern romanian Border with Ukraine. It has a Chapel covered with colourful frescoes that Date Back to the 1500s. The buildings surrounded by aged Walls Are Home to a group of nuns who look quite similar to those in the other monasteries. Outside the Complex several Kneel together tending to a Garden of herbs and Spring onions. With few exceptions the nuns grow most of what they eat. Gazing across the Lush summer greens in her Garden an older nun says that sometimes during a bumper crop they take their surplus herbs and onions to sell at a local Market. Burning curiosity forces a question. You live within these Walls you eat Here study and teach Here. What do you do with your Market earnings Quot the nun is asked. She grins and says Quot we thought we d like to buy a car and see what s on the other Side of those  change comes slowly to the monasteries but it comes. Huge murals cover the Walls of the Cald Alusani monastery. A nun prepares a meal in the Kitchen at lower left. 12 stripes Magazine May 7, 1992