European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - December 24, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Jerusalem is the Crucible in which is forged three of the world s major religions. Left a priest walks Down the Steps above it a Muslim leaves the mosque of Omar. E r u s a l e continued from Page 3 said n Young German woman from Hamburg who now Calls Jerusalem Home. Quot it is the Center of the world Quot she said. And it is the Crucible in which were forged three of the world s major religions a christianity Judaism  islam a  is the focal Point of a 4,000-year process of human development  calamity that remains in a state of churn today. A full tour  understanding of the holy land takes visitors beyond the gales of the old City of Jerusalem. The outposts most familiar to strangers to this land Are of course Bethlehem Nazareth  Galilee. Bethlehem is sacred territory to both jews  arabs  Only a 20-minute drive from Jerusalem on the Edge of the Judean Hills  desert. Its significance to Jude Christian theology dates Back 1,500 years before the birth of Christ. It was Home to David the Shepherd who became King of Israel  of course the Birthplace of Jesus. To the North of Jerusalem is Nazareth where Mary  Joseph Are believed by some to have lived before the birth of Christ  where they raised the child. And farther North  to the East the areas on the shores of the sea of Galilee Are where Christ spent most of his life  jewish scholars produced rabbinical texts. Visitors to Israel can drive a car or ride a bus in almost any direction  be overwhelmed by scores of religious shrines  historical milestones of several millennia. But for tourists operating on a travel budget limited in time  resources a few Days in Jerusalem with a couple of Short Side trips can produce a Rich introduction to the cultural  religious Bedrock of much of the world s population. Quot you name it they have it Here. Every variety of each religion  combinations of christianity Judaism  islam. It s All Here Quot said Menahem Blum an israeli jew who leads walking Tours through the old City of Jerusalem. It is the old City in the very heart of the Jerusalem to which visitors travel upon their arrival. Entry of course is free  wide open except for prohibitions during special religious times. But the old City is a mysterious  often confusing place criss crossed by Cobblestone paths that have been rebuilt  realigned Over the centuries. Newcomers Are frequently lost while stumbling Down one narrow Lane alter another wandering past historical treasures in Blissful ignorance. An inexpensive three hour walking tour offers tourists a Quick  Basic understanding of the geography  significance of the old City where it is permissible to go  areas where safety becomes an Issue. Six Gates take visitors through the Stone Walls that encircle the ancient City that is divided into four districts one each for the armenians christians muslims  jews. A fifth area less easy to define in a geographic sense but heavy with historical significance is the Temple mount  Haram Esh Sharif a the holiest of grounds for jews christians  muslims. Quot it s the foundation of the world Quot said tour guide Blum. Quot the most religious spot of the world  so naturally is a spot of conflict for jews   Blum enters the old City through Jaffa Gate  leads a meandering tour first through the armenian Quarter  then into the jewish Christian  Muslim sections. Of All four sections the armenian Quarter remains virtually autonomous from its neighbors almost unchanged from its inception 1,700 years ago despite being surrounded by the tumult of time  conflict. Its boundaries inside the City have remained constant its residents speak their own language write with their own alphabet  operate their own schools  Library. The armenians maintain such a Low profile relative to their neighbors that visitors can walk through their Quarter  not even know they be been there. But the armenian residents enjoy the distinction of being members of the first nation on Earth to embrace christianity shortly before it disappeared As a nation at the close of the fourth Century. That a National  cultural identity survives is largely credited to the armenian foothold in Jerusalem. Home to Only about 1,200 armenians the Quarter s courtyards  lanes Are virtually empty of the crowds that crush through the other quarters. Though the Interior of the armenian Quarter is generally closed to visitors a Quick passage through its streets a St. James Cathedral the main focal Point a offers a glimpse of this stubborn  persecuted people s place in history. From Here the paths enter the jewish Quarter. Before . 70, All of Jerusalem was jewish. After that it was conquered destroyed  rebuilt by the romans  muslims  crusaders. The turks of the ottoman Empire ruled for 400 years before the modern world continued on Page 6 4 stripes Magazine december 24, 1992