European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - December 24, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Visitors to Israel looking for scenes out of the past Are not disappointed once they enter the Maze of narrow alleys and lanes through which Commerce and life course in the ancient Stone Metropolis called the old City. The products available on the open markets Here Are a blend of old and new exotic and mundane. One merchant will offer cassette tapes of Western Rock n Roll while his next door neighbor a jeweler beckons customers with necklaces of Silver and ancient roman Glass. Here an Arab storekeeper deals. Hell lure you into his shop and dress you in bedouin headdress or a colourful Cap suitable for prayer at the Western Wall or in the Temple mount on holy Days offer the merchandise for a Small Fortune and then agree to a special rate reduced just for you. There in the jewish Quarter operators of an Art gallery or Western dress shop will sit Back in quiet dignity daring you to pass their pricey merchandise. They la Greet you while affecting an air of indifference and then warm to the Prospect that the customer s intentions Are genuine. Tourists who turn to shopping after visiting the holy places Are engulfed in a world of dense face to face Commerce that survives after centuries. Each Section of the old City has its Long narrow Cobblestone lanes lined on both sides by stores offering merchandise fast food and Staples like fruits and vegetables olives and nuts. And it s clearly obvious when a stranger passes from one Quarter s marketplace to another. The Cardo in the jewish Quarter is the most modern of the markets a result of the restoration construction the israelis undertook after Jerusalem was reunited at the conclusion of the 1967 Arab israeli War. The markets off Jaffa Cate extend into the Center of old City separating the armenian and Christian quarters. Their proximity to the larger and modern Section of Jerusalem outside the City s Stone Walls is reflected by the less exotic tame restaurants and food vendors. But longings for a glimpse Back into the Way of life of the old Middle East Are satisfied the moment visitors take one step and one step is All that is necessary into the Muslim Quarter. There tourists mingle with the people who actually live inside the old City and compete with space in the crowded thoroughfares that Are rarely wider than two to three Yards and Are seemingly always crowded. Most merchants speak English. Most Deal in dollars and shekels and sometimes German Marks. Few want to Trade using charge cards and All of them will Point you to a Bank or Money changer if they hear you fret you re out of Cash and Only have traveler s checks. Guides and tourist officials Tell visitors the markets Are Safe although pickpockets know a Good thing so mind your Wallet. But though the Charm of the place is seductive avoid going into the old City at night. The streets meander there Are few Street lights and it s easy to get turned around. And even in daytime tourists should remain cautious. One Young merchant in the Muslim Quarter offered a Good natured warning to this visitor. Quot come in and let me rip you off Quot he said laughing. The modern and traditional line streets in the marketplace from to shirts top photo to sacks of food below left. Is i i my jew y a a boy reaches for a treat amid Candy dried fruit and other goodies top photo while Young men push a cart loaded with bread Rolls above and a woman sits next to a pile of oranges. Photos by Bob Klose december 24, 1992 stripes Magazine