European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - December 29, 1994, Darmstadt, Hesse                                A us t r i a the charms of Vienna by Stephen Williams. New Day . Music is Vienna Vienna is music. This has been the Way for centuries and some May say that Vienna Austria has never been More musical than it is in the 90s,. ". ,. O v   " the 1990s, that is. In this upcoming Winter season when for most viennese music is As much a necessity As a Woolen coat and warm Hearth there is opera there is symphony. There is dance and Ballet and the Vienna boys choir in the Homburg Chapel and the fabulous philharmonic in the Musi Verein. " there is music beyond the classics Maximilian Schell last summer donned the tweeds of professor Henry Higgin s in my fair lady in the beautifully restored Ronacher theater where the strains of Sondheim and Lowe and Rodgers reverberate off the boards. This year crease Das musicals a town. Music and Vienna that s no cliche but a True description of the City writes or. Andrea Schurian in the insight guide to Vienna. From the Cradle to the grave the viennese Are accompanied by music. In the concert Hall listening to the philharmonic or drinking Herriger Young wine and swaying to typical viennese Schrammel songs life and love in Vienna is governed bymusic.". A a i a virtually every great european classical composer lived or passed through Vienna most during the Golden Days of the hapsburg dynasty. Much of Vienna s musical legacy was created by those not native to the City the three composers Central to viennese classicism were Mozart from Salzburg Austria Haydn from lower Austria and Beethoven from Germany for visitors there is no need to be deliberate in search of music in this City. Music robust delicate intoxicating will find you. A piano Medley of Light classics a Little Mozart a Little Strauss wafted into my hotel room one midday As i tried to shed Jet lag with an afternoon Nap. An hour later on the Kantner Strasse the pedestrian Only Boulevard that runs from the ring to St. Stephen s Cathedral and dissects the Center City an old woman in a Long coat and a Babushka played for schillings on her saxophone a plaintive sendin . Passing by the City conservatory i heard from an open window a student grappling with the first movement of Tchaikovsky s violin concerto. On a sunday noon i joined the crowds at Hoher Market to hear the old glockenspiel on the Art Nouveau Anker clock compete with the comp of passing horses and carriages and the exhaust Arias of bows. One night late again from my hotel a gathering of drunks in the Street below serenaded us with an out of tune but thoroughly impassioned chorus from Beethoven s ode to Joy. The Vienna state opera always with a capital o is a cherished form and the opera House a National shrine to culture. Critics rank it in the top five of Europe and it ranks High As Well with International stars when Luciano Pavarotti played in the summer scalpers had no trouble getting $800 for a ticket. Critics rank the opera House in the top 5 of Europe a nighttime shot of St. Stephen s Cathedral. -. " " " -.". Tours of the state opera Are offered daily for 40 schillings about $4 in. Several languages including English. Guides show off the artworks the tapestries the grand Hall left standing despite the bombings of world War i and the massive chandelier 3 tons of Bohemian Crystal. The Musi Verein was built in 1870 and houses the Vienna philharmonic during its season of concerts while the Konzer thaus built earlier this Century accommodates Rock and popular music As Well As classical. Most of Vienna s better sounds Aren t free. On any Given evening during the season from september until late june music lovers might have their Choice of a half dozen or More events. Obtaining tickets is quite another matter. Dempf Stethe Vienna state opera s hard to get reputation devotees can almost always gain entry via standing room. These cheap seats Are less than $3 but involve queues Waits and a rail to lean on. Much More difficult to obtain Are tickets to the Vienna philharmonic s concerts at the Musi Verein even the standing room places go to subscribers. Visitors might get Lucky and find a single seat at show time but the better option is to hear the philharmonic at the state opera where it is the House band. While Vienna is never without crowds of visitors in the coming months the traveler May find music More accessible than it is in summer fall and Spring. The j v  Vienna tourist Board Central cemetery final resting place of musical giants. Austrian tourist office publishes monthly guides to musical events in its scene Magazine. Here s what to look for this Winter opera the state opera which traditionally opens in Early fall starts this year on dec. 14. Therrian stage has been under renovation for months with engineers preparing a new Hydraulic system. The opening promises much the first night of Richard Strauss Elektra features Mezzo Soprano Christa Ludwig the second evening Tenor Jose Carreras appears in the debut of a new production of Gior Darto s Fedora for ticket info Call 43 1/51444-2959 or 2960. Alternatives for opera lovers the vol Soper Vienna s second Large opera House offers performances of la Boheme Andl of the Ballet ensemble in to Jefferry widow and arabian nights among others. Information is available at me above number. Also the Vienna Kamme Roper specializes in contemporary and historical opera and performs every monday wednesday and saturday evening 43 1/513-6072. Symphony on new year s Day the Vienna philharmonic performs its annual Strauss concert conducted by Zubin Mehta. Tickets Are impossible to get legitimately but visitors also May consider concerts at the Konzer thaus Beethoven s 9th symphony by the Weiner sym Honiker on dec. 30 and 31 and the new year s concert of the Weiner Homburg orchestra 43 1/712 1211. The Haydn festival will be held at the Musi Verein March 5-12. Balls yes the balls where the Star is the Waltz. The most prestigious is the Vienna opera Ball a giant All night party for the Lucky 190 couples who get tickets. This year the Ball is on feb. 23 bring gowns and tails. And do not despair if tickets Are gone some 300 balls take place in the City Between new year s and mid March and the Public is invited to most of them. There s the philharmonic Ball on Jan. 19/ the physicians Ball on jan28, and a magicians Ball for children on feb. 26. Events come and go but Vienna s musical legacy is permanent. A traveler could spend Days contemplating the history of music and walking in the footsteps of great composers. From the 18th Century Haydn Brahms Mozart and others through the Waltz and the Strausss to Arnold Schoenburg and the new school of viennese music one might easily spend a lifetime studying the Way music intertwines with daily life Here. A Good place to begin is at the end so to speak the Central cemetery. A Small Section in the cemetery is the final resting place of musical giants. Here is the Rodin esque Tombstone of Brahms with the composer resting his head on his hands the Marker to Beethoven embellished with a Golden Harp and Butterfly the tombs of Johann Strauss and his wife Adele the Graves of. Schubert Cluck von Suppe Josef Lanner and Hugo Wolf. It is a touching place. There is no grave for Austria s honoured composer Mozart although there is a memorial to him in the Central cemetery. Mozart died at the age of 37, impoverished and alone. There is a statue and plaque in the St. Marx cemetery Over what May be his grave but no one knows for sure where he lies. 70 stripes Magazine december 29, 7994